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Fighting a pitched battle with my scupper valve...

bronze_10

bronze_10

Jetboaters Admiral
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Location
Raleigh / Wake Forest Area..
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2008
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
23
I am replacing my scupper.... in gaining access I had to remove to rubber tube that goes between the jet and the clean out plug in order to get the water box moved out of the way.... the question is.. that rubber hose was covered in a thick sealant on the bottom next to the pump.... I would assume u replace that sealant when you reinstall.... is 5200 normally used or is that too strong? I would not think it is a part that will come on and off much...
 
I didn't have to remove that clean out port hose....but you DO want it sealed. I would just use some caulk to seal it....I assume they just use the same sealant they put in the gaps in the intake areas as they have it handy (overkill). It is hose clamped down too....right?
 
Julian said:
I didn't have to remove that clean out port hose....but you DO want it sealed. I would just use some caulk to seal it....I assume they just use the same sealant they put in the gaps in the intake areas as they have it handy (overkill). It is hose clamped down too....right?
Click to expand...
Yes... and there was a lot of that sealant..
 
Just use some silicone not 5200..
 
Luckily I didn't have to remove my cleanout tubes ( tried but couldn't break them free). when you reinstall them maybe put a small piece of tape over your plug dog holes. I helped another member a few weeks ago and his dog holes had a large gunk of silicone blocking them.
 
What a disastrous scupper replacement attempt.. I thought I had ground it down enough to sit flush but wasnt quite there.. as I am tightening inside the boat my wife says it looks good from the outside... I tighten it down then jump down to see how it looks.. my wife says as I jump down.. I think it will need a little more sealant at the bottom but the top looks good. What? There was a large gap at the bottom. When we put it in we were not scared of using a lot of that 5200 inside and out and I know it tacs up quickly. So I went in and unscrewed the nut smearing sealant over all the threads. We pushed it out and I used a grinder to hit the one spot that would not let it sit flat. Then we reinstalled the nut with the tacted up sealant in the threads.... it was slow going but I figured if we get it tight it would never leak.... about a 3/4 of the way through the threads and the nut stops.. the sealant is too much... crap! I start to remover the n u t but it stops again at the end of the threads... my hand is cramping so bad I can't grip anymore. .. my wife is yelling at me, I'm yelling at her.... both our hands are covered in 5200 sealant. Finally I get the nut off.. we pull the scupper out and then start to clean all the 5200 off of the scupper opening inside and out with the acitone we were going to use to wash the floors for the sea deck install. I took that scupper and threw it I n the trash.. we ordered a new one and will try again . Many lessons learned.....
 
Yikes! Glad nobody was bonded to the boat or scupper by accident! That would have been a crazy ER visit.

Dry fits are critical!
 
Murf'n'surf said:
Yikes! Glad nobody was bonded to the boat or scupper by accident! That would have been a crazy ER visit.

Dry fits are critical!
Click to expand...
Dry fits yes..... I have learned this... and it did not help that the threads on the nut were messed up a little when I got it.. it would not turn freely in my hand when it was new but they were not cross threaded just kinda flattened on onside....... now smear 5200 in it and bam.... a divorce waiting to happen!
 
Good luck @bronze_10. Remember, it is always easier to mend hurt feelings with a buddy than with a wife. I try to leave my wife out of all things regarding the boat that require tools. I hope your second attempt goes better!
 
I'm doing mine this week adding rear cup holders like @Bruce did. Just hoping it goes smooth. Thanks for your info @bronze_10 plus I have an additional bilge pump. I'll be busy.
 
I'm not quite sure about using the 5200 on the inside. As long as you have a really good bead around the outside and get it tightened up good, I can't see you ever having any leaks. That is all I did with mine and it is sealed tight.
 
scot71 said:
I'm not quite sure about using the 5200 on the inside. As long as you have a really good bead around the outside and get it tightened up good, I can't see you ever having any leaks. That is all I did with mine and it is sealed tight.
Click to expand...
I agree...... NOW!
 
My buddy, @JCampbell used a gasket of some kind with his replacement and that proved to be more effective and easier to install than using any sealant. You may want to look into a gasket.
 
again 5200 is not needed, Plain old silicone works just fine. you can use 4200 if you please but 5200 is permanent and maybe he day will come when it needs to be removed for some unknown reason
 
Don't make this process overly difficult, yes it may be hard to reach but, once reached it is easier to have 2 people, I helped my friend change his on vacation after we noticed water in engine compartment, we had some long channel locks, after old one was out we dried around hole, we put a nice bead of silicone around the outside flange, then slid the threads thru hole, I put a nice bead of silicone inside with my finger (neatness was not necessary on inside but plenty of silicone is!!) and put nut on, after snug by hand I was able to tighten the nut just snug. Then i ran a bead of silicone around outside and wipe with finger. It has not leaked since Sometimes it may be easier to have the person outside spin and tighten the assembly while just holding inside nut since the room does not allow a lot of tightening.
 
@bronze_10 congrats on finally finishing and not having to sleep on the couch! Lol. Hope no major issues this time around and no leaks on Saturday.
 
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