final amp advice

[Emmett]

Here's my setup.

8 - polk mm651um's
1 - 10" Wet Sounds sub
2 Wet Sounds Icon 8 tower speakers.

I own a Wet Sounds HTX4 amp that I was going to use to power the tower speakers and I was going to get a Syn6 to power the speakers and sub, but that was before I decieded to add a pair of driver's helm speakers. I have not installed anything yet. I don't want to run 3 amps, so I think I should just sell the HTX4 and get two amps that can power my setup.

Any suggestions on the amps that can give me the power I need to the setup I have?

Any help would be appreciated!!!!

 

[David Analog]

I wouldn't recommend the old Syn6 in any case because it is Class AB, and not H.
Assuming that you have eight coaxial speakers broken into three zones. that would require six channels plus 1 or 2 for the subwoofer, so eight total channels for in-the-boat.
You can sell the HTX4 and get two HTX6s. Or, my recommendation would be to keep the Wetsounds HTX4 and add a JL Audio M800/8.

 

[Emmett]

I wouldn't recommend the old Syn6 in any case because it is Class AB, and not H.
Assuming that you have eight coaxial speakers broken into three zones. that would require six channels plus 1 or 2 for the subwoofer, so eight total channels for in-the-boat.
You can sell the HTX4 and get two HTX6s. Or, my recommendation would be to keep the Wetsounds HTX4 and add a JL Audio M800/8.

David,
How could the 8 speakers be broken into 3 zones? Is it because the rear and swimdeck speakers are wired in series? Bow/New set/rear&swimdeck
Sorry I'm still learning.

Thanks

 

[David Analog]

David,
How could the 8 speakers be broken into 3 zones? Is it because the rear and swimdeck speakers are wired in series? Bow/New set/rear&swimdeck
Sorry I'm still learning.

Thanks

Divided the way that the zones would be independently gained and perhaps controlled.
Front and rear cockpit speakers in parallel on two channels. Zone One.
Bow on two channels. Zone Two.
Swimdeck on two channels. Zone Three.

 

[Emmett]

Divided the way that the zones would be independently gained and perhaps controlled.
Front and rear cockpit speakers in parallel on two channels. Zone One.
Bow on two channels. Zone Two.
Swimdeck on two channels. Zone Three.

Thanks David! Sounds like a plan. I was worried I might have to go to a 3rd amp since I added the front cockpit speakers.

 

[Emmett]

Should I get the birch spacer ring from Earmark for my 10" sub? They are pricey but don't want to half step now! What about for my 6.5 coax's?

 

[David Analog]

Should I get the birch spacer ring from Earmark for my 10" sub? They are pricey but don't want to half step now! What about for my 6.5 coax's?

Not a 'spacer' ring but a birch 'baffle' ring which is intended to give you a more rigid baffle surface. This is a valid addition and a performance improvement for a 10-inch IB subwoofer mounted in a thin fiberglass wall. How it's installed also makes a difference. So I would definitely heed Odin's instructions.
It's not a necessary fixture for a 6.5" coaxial that is mounted in fiberglass, but is of importance for a coaxial mounted in very thin and flimsy plastic or compressed foam (looks like plastic) coaming panels & pockets. You're probably looking a fiberglass-only mounting surfaces for the coaxials, so there's no need.

 

[Emmett]

David,
I ordered the JL M800/8v2 and I have a couple of questions.
1. Will their be enough power for my XS10FA sub after running my 6.5 coax speakers on the other 6 channels? Looks like about 180-200 watts bridged.
2. I bought the WS420SQ equalizer and was wondering if you could tell me how the RCA cables will run from my Polk PA45UM head unit? I have two Icon 8's that will be powered by the HTX4 amp FYI

Thanks, Emmett