• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

First Time Wet Sand...Poor Results

Joshua Miller

Jetboaters Captain
Messages
496
Reaction score
815
Points
222
Location
Jacksonville, NC
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2022
Boat Model
252XE
Boat Length
25
Trying to do some end-of-season cleanup. Thought I would wet sand the hull. Started with 1000 grit, moved to 1500, followed with a magic eraser, then 3M rubbing compound, glaze, and wax but I can still see the fine scratches and swirl marks. What am I missing? Should I have sanded to 2000 grit or finer before moving to rubbing compound?
106475
 
What kind of buff pad. If you are using wool. You will need to finish with a fine foam pad with something like 3m Finesse
 
What kind of buff pad. If you are using wool. You will need to finish with a fine foam pad with something like 3m Finesse
Yea I think that was the problem. I was hand buffing and that wasn’t enough. I went back to the rubbing compound with a cutting pad on an orbital sander and it’s looking better.
 
Unless you have gelcoat that has chalked or deep scratches, you do not need to wet sand. Modern buffing compounds with cutting pads (mild to fast) applied with either long throw (15-21) or forced pad rotation random orbital buffers can handle anything else and probably the chalk and deep scratches too. Look at the products and videos at Shurhold, Griot's Garage and Autogeek.

Pros use rotary buffers because they have the experience and want the speed, but the only advantage is speed with a much higher risk of damage.
 
You're not going to buff that out by hand unless you have nothing to do for hours upon hours and a shoulder made of steel. Otherwise you'll need a DA polisher at a minimum if you don't have a high speed buffer and use the correct pads.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top