Flush mount tower speakers?

[Smiley]

Working on installing my new tower speakers and noticed the flush mount option. Not sure if it will work but wanted to reach out and see if anyone else had tried it. The clamps on the swivel mounts are fine, but a little large.

While I was playing around with locations, I thought it might be a clean look to install the flush mount option on the crossbars instead.

Does anyone know if there is a hole between the front bar and the cavity in the cross bar like in the center one? I can see through the center factory hole that the wires for the light run through the front tube and then down the center crossmember.
Going to grab a boroscope tomorrow and check up inside the tube if I can get it in there. But, if anyone knows, it would save the hassle.

 

[Farny]

Working on installing my new tower speakers and noticed the flush mount option. Not sure if it will work but wanted to reach out and see if anyone else had tried it. The clamps on the swivel mounts are fine, but a little large.
View attachment 172589
While I was playing around with locations, I thought it might be a clean look to install the flush mount option on the crossbars instead.
View attachment 172590
Does anyone know if there is a hole between the front bar and the cavity in the cross bar like in the center one? I can see through the center factory hole that the wires for the light run through the front tube and then down the center crossmember.View attachment 172591
Going to grab a boroscope tomorrow and check up inside the tube if I can get it in there. But, if anyone knows, it would save the hassle.

Would be curious to know your answer as to whether There is an opening there or not. I tried to keep my towers to the sides a bit to avoid head knocking as much.

 

[212s]

I think the clamps would be more secure for heavy tower speakers than drilling into the cross-member pieces - it's sturdy aluminum but a lot of torque on some screws there. Unless you planned to drill through to the top and put bolts/nuts through it?

 

[Smiley]

I think the clamps would be more secure for heavy tower speakers than drilling into the cross-member pieces - it's sturdy aluminum but a lot of torque on some screws there. Unless you planned to drill through to the top and put bolts/nuts through it?

That is a good point. My initial thoughts were more on how I didn’t want everything hanging and stressing a pair of bolts threaded into aluminum. So, I figured I would need a stainless backplate and bolt tack welded onto the top of it. The idea was, if I ever needed to take it off the back plate needed to be big enough not to spin in the tube, and would provide additional support.

The more work it turns into the more I am likely to just use the clamp. Trying to get out on the water tomorrow for a bit as it is supposed to be 80 degrees here.

 

[gallobg]

Regardless of mounting strength and fishing the wires, my main concern is that the speakers will block the center walkway. There’s already limited space in the 19ft boats without having to dodge speakers.

Personally I used the swivel clamps to push the towers outboard as much as possible. It worked really well for me and the guests moving around on the boat.

 

[jocolo21]

Mind you this is a 252. Install speakers on rear pipe routed wires to the front via the xmembers

 

[Wrecked Rooster]

Regardless of mounting strength and fishing the wires, my main concern is that the speakers will block the center walkway. There’s already limited space in the 19ft boats without having to dodge speakers.

Personally I used the swivel clamps to push the towers outboard as much as possible. It worked really well for me and the guests moving around on the boat.

View attachment 172704

What size speakers are those?

 

[gallobg]

What size speakers are those?

Those are WetSounds Icon 8.

Side note: If I did it again, I would get the Rev8's instead for more sound at a distance.

 

[Farny]

Regardless of mounting strength and fishing the wires, my main concern is that the speakers will block the center walkway. There’s already limited space in the 19ft boats without having to dodge speakers.

Personally I used the swivel clamps to push the towers outboard as much as possible. It worked really well for me and the guests moving around on the boat.

View attachment 172704

Used the same approach and have been avoiding headaches - here’s a pic, swivel clamps a must to orient speaker direction.

 

[Wrecked Rooster]

Those are WetSounds Icon 8.

Side note: If I did it again, I would get the Rev8's instead for more sound at a distance.

Looking at the Kicker 9" horns but they are huge according to the online measurements. Putting a tape to the tower, i'm not sure where I would mount them.

 

[Smiley]

Most likely going to mount them on the front tube with the clamps instead. Got them in place and looking to drill the holes and install this weekend. May move them a tad farther outboard, but not too much. Walking around the boat, they didn’t seem to get in the way.

 

[jetboatjay]

Working on the same project as this one. Any suggestions on pulling the wire from the back tower bar onto the front one….and then down?

I see the wire for the light goes from the back bar, through the top support, and then down through the starboard side of the front bar.
Any tricks out there to pull speaker wire in the same manner as the wire used for the light?

 

[jocolo21]

12" wet SOUNDS

 

[Steve73]

Working on the same project as this one. Any suggestions on pulling the wire from the back tower bar onto the front one….and then down?

I see the wire for the light goes from the back bar, through the top support, and then down through the starboard side of the front bar.
Any tricks out there to pull speaker wire in the same manner as the wire used for the light?

Attach a straightened out coat hanger wire to end of speaker wire to help with feeding/pulling through. Also, when choosing your placement consider where the speakers will drop to if you have to lower the tower.

 

[jetboatjay]

Attach a straightened out coat hanger wire to end of speaker wire to help with feeding/pulling through. Also, when choosing your placement consider where the speakers will drop to if you have to lower the tower.

Thanks for the suggestion. Word to the wise, don't use a painted coat hanger as the paint chips and it's hard to vacuum out of SeaDek...

I actually found success using weedwhacker string. Sturdy enough to push through, but flexible enough to work around the "WTF is that inside the tube" stuff that seems to cause all the trouble. Installed 2 8" Rockville speakers and an amp. Love it.

Thanks to all who weighed in with suggestions.