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FSH 252/255 Trailer Brake Project

Zackdadams

Jet Boat Junkie
Messages
293
Reaction score
443
Points
147
Location
MS Gulf Coast
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2021
Boat Model
FSH Sport
Boat Length
25
EDITING IN PROGRESS 🚧
Incoming tutorial for replacing brake calipers, surge actuator, rotors, and more.

Now a disclaimer: I am not a mechanic.
There are most definitely steps that could be improved in this tutorial!

Tools Needed:

Part 1: The Calipers, Rotors, & Leaf Springs

1000014205.jpg

I live on the Gulf Coast, exclusively using my boat in salt or brackish water.
Each time, I rinse the brakes down with water, afterwards I use salt away, and follow it up with fluid film.
However, saltwater is a beast, so it's time to do some maintenance, replace my calipers, and refurbish or replace anything else needed on the trailer.

You will want to buy lots of Water Displacement Formula #40 for this install!

Step 1: Disassembly & Decisions

Remove your wheels and tires.
Once they are off, you should be able to get a good look at the state of your brakes, calipers, rotors, leaf springs, & brake lines.

In my circumstance, i'm replacing the calipers, and going to refurbish everything else.

1000014199.jpg

Start by removing the brake lines screwed into the calipers, with a small box wrench.
Wrap the ends of the brake lines with paper towels and painters tape.
Note: The starboard side calipers have 2x brake lines each.
We will be reusing this 2-port valve off the old caliper.


20250216_115317.jpg 20250215_090349.jpg

Step 2: Remove the Calipers

You will use a 3/8 allen wrench socket on the back side of the caliper.
They are in very difficult locations, so you will probably want to buy a swivel knuckle for your socket set.
I ended up having to use a piece of pipe on the end of my socket wrench to initially break the nut free.

1000014210.jpg 20250216_155839.jpg

Once both allen bolts are removed, you may have to use a dead blow mallet to persuade the caliper off the rotor.

Step 3: Hub & Rotor Disassembly
  1. Remove Dust Cap
  2. Spin the rotor while gently tapping the central hub with a rubber mallet.
  3. Remove the cotter pin.
  4. Remove the nut.
  5. Pull the rotor towards you, releasing the bearing & washer.
  6. Catch these with a paper towel, as they are covered in grease.
  7. Use a flat head screwdriver to release the clips inside the grease hub.
  8. Separate the spring, clips, & zerk cap.
  9. Remove the rotors.

20250216_121947.jpg 20250216_122031.jpg 20250216_122127.jpg
20250216_122317.jpg 20250216_122443.jpg 20250216_122546.jpg

You should now have these parts in front of you.

20250215_091254.jpg

Step 4: Refurbish or Replace the Rotors

My rotors weren't that bad, so I decided to keep them.
Your situation might be different.
Take the rotors to a professional shop.
They can turn the rotors, giving them new life.
Alternatively, buy new rotors.

(Don't do what I did: Watch YouTube.
Use a grinder with a flap disk to clean them up.)

20250215_094556.jpg

Step 5: The Leaf Springs

At this point, take stock of the condition of your Leaf Springs.
Mine are still decent, so I opted to Sand Blast, Prime, and Paint.
Tape up your spindle and brake lines.
Use a wire brush to scrape off the rust, and follow up with a light sand blasting.
I purchased this light duty model from Harbor Freight.

20250216_123604.jpg 20250215_112329.jpg 20250216_125132.jpg

Afterwards, spray Acid Etching Primer, followed by Black Rustoleum.

20250215_123909.jpg 20250216_154805.jpg
20250215_131816.jpg

Step 6: Grease, Grease, & More Grease

Clean all your parts using a combination of paper towels, Parts Cleaner, & rubber gloves.
Once everything is cleaned, apply a generous amount of marine grease to the spindle, bearings, and interior of hub.
I'm using Lucas Marine Grease which is designed for boat trailer bearings.
Afterwards reassemble the hub.
Finally, use a grease gun on the zerk fitting to fully the grease the hub.
20250215_150129.jpg

Here's a great video explanation of greasing and reassembly:

Step 7: Attach the New Calipers

The new calipers are Dexter DB-35 Aluminum.
(2) Left Side #42015L
(2) Right Side #42015R

1000014197.jpg

Caliper Installation Steps
  1. Replace & install the 2-port valve on the starboard side calipers.
  2. Use a C-clamp to compress the central piston.
  3. Apply very small amount of caliper grease to brake pad ears.
  4. Clean Rotors with Parts Cleaner.
  5. Install New Calipers over the Rotor.
  6. Install New Bolts
  7. Bleed Brakes after Surge Actuator installation. (explained in next section)

Here is the finished product, before & after.
20250215_075607.jpg 20250215_170559.jpg

Note: The Brake lines are strapped to the trailer frame with metal clips.
Mine had pretty much rusted away, so I removed them.
I used large zip ties each foot to re-secure the lines.
Afterwards, I sanded, primed, and painted the axel black.

Finally, take this opportunity to slap on some new wheels and tires!

20250215_174424.jpg 20250216_171432.jpg
 
Last edited:
EDITING IN PROGRESS 🚧
Awaiting Parts


Tools Needed:

Part 2: Surge Brake Actuator

1000014144.jpg


The Surge Brake Actuator for our Shoreland'r Trailer:
Dexter DEX-099-060-20
UFP DX7.5L A60 Disc Brake Surge Actuator - Tandem Axle

My actuator had locked up, so it was time to replace it.
It's held in place with 2 large pins & 4 snap rings.
You will need Snap Ring pliers to remove them.

The pins appear to be aluminum or some other soft metal.
Don't hit these directly with a hammer or else they will deform, forcing you to break out a grinder to reshape the heads
(Ask me how I know)
I found a landscaping stake worked perfectly for driving them out, with extreme persuasion!

1000014145.jpg 1000014146.jpg

Once I removed the old actuator, I discovered the brake line had broken off at some point.
I ordered a replacement hose: Dexter 76" Replacement Brake Hose

1000014147.jpg 1000014150.jpg

As you can see, the interior has obviously been holding water, causing rust
I plan on addressing this to prevent it in the future.

MasterPro Marine Grease
 
Last edited:
EDITING IN PROGRESS 🚧
Incoming tutorial for replacing brake calipers, surge actuator, rotors, and more.

Now a disclaimer: I am not a mechanic.
There are most definitely steps that could be improved in this tutorial!

Tools Needed:

Part 1: The Calipers, Rotors, & Leaf Springs

View attachment 231441

I live on the Gulf Coast, exclusively using my boat in salt or brackish water.
Each time, I rinse the brakes down with water, afterwards I use salt away, and follow it up with fluid film.
However, saltwater is a beast, so it's time to do some maintenance, replace my calipers, and refurbish or replace anything else needed on the trailer.

You will want to buy lots of Water Displacement Formula #40 for this install!

Step 1: Disassembly & Decisions

Remove your wheels and tires.
Once they are off, you should be able to get a good look at the state of your brakes, calipers, rotors, leaf springs, & brake lines.

In my circumstance, i'm replacing the calipers, and going to refurbish everything else.

View attachment 231445

Start by removing the brake lines screwed into the calipers, with a small box wrench.
Wrap the ends of the brake lines with paper towels and painters tape.
Note: The starboard side calipers have 2x brake lines each.
We will be reusing this 2-port valve off the old caliper.


View attachment 231446 View attachment 231476

Step 2: Remove the Calipers

You will use a 3/8 allen wrench socket on the back side of the caliper.
They are in very difficult locations, so you will probably want to buy a swivel knuckle for your socket set.
I ended up having to use a piece of pipe on the end of my socket wrench to initially break the nut free.

View attachment 231443 View attachment 231477

Once both allen bolts are removed, you may have to use a dead blow mallet to persuade the caliper off the rotor.

Step 3: Hub & Rotor Disassembly
  1. Remove Dust Cap
  2. Spin the rotor while gently tapping the central hub with a rubber mallet.
  3. Remove the cotter pin.
  4. Remove the nut.
  5. Pull the rotor towards you, releasing the bearing & washer.
  6. Catch these with a paper towel, as they are covered in grease.
  7. Use a flat head screwdriver to release the clips inside the grease hub.
  8. Separate the spring, clips, & zerk cap.
  9. Remove the rotors.

View attachment 231447 View attachment 231448 View attachment 231449
View attachment 231450 View attachment 231451 View attachment 231452

You should now have these parts in front of you.

View attachment 231454

Step 4: Refurbish or Replace the Rotors

My rotors weren't that bad, so I decided to keep them.
Your situation might be different.
Take the rotors to a professional shop.
They can turn the rotors, giving them new life.
Alternatively, buy new rotors.

(Don't do what I did: Watch YouTube.
Use a grinder with a flap disk to clean them up.)

View attachment 231455

Step 5: The Leaf Springs

At this point, take stock of the condition of your Leaf Springs.
Mine are still decent, so I opted to Sand Blast, Prime, and Paint.
Tape up your spindle and brake lines.
Use a wire brush to scrape off the rust, and follow up with a light sand blasting.
I purchased this light duty model from Harbor Freight.

View attachment 231456 View attachment 231457 View attachment 231480

Afterwards, spray Acid Etching Primer, followed by Black Rustoleum.

View attachment 231458 View attachment 231459
View attachment 231460

Step 6: Grease, Grease, & More Grease

Clean all your parts using a combination of paper towels, Parts Cleaner, & rubber gloves.
Once everything is cleaned, apply a generous amount of marine grease to the spindle, bearings, and interior of hub.
I'm using Lucas Marine Grease which is designed for boat trailer bearings.
Afterwards reassemble the hub.
Finally, use a grease gun on the zerk fitting to fully the grease the hub.
View attachment 231462

Here's a great video explanation of greasing and reassembly:

Step 7: Attach the New Calipers

The new calipers are Dexter DB-35 Aluminum.
(2) Left Side #42015L
(2) Right Side #42015R

View attachment 231444

Caliper Installation Steps
  1. Replace & install the 2-port valve on the starboard side calipers.
  2. Use a C-clamp to compress the central piston.
  3. Apply very small amount of caliper grease to brake pad ears.
  4. Clean Rotors with Parts Cleaner.
  5. Install New Calipers over the Rotor.
  6. Install New Bolts
  7. Bleed Brakes after Surge Actuator installation. (explained in next section)

Here is the finished product, before & after.
View attachment 231463 View attachment 231464

Note: The Brake lines are strapped to the trailer frame with metal clips.
Mine had pretty much rusted away, so I removed them.
I used large zip ties each foot to re-secure the lines.
Afterwards, I sanded, primed, and painted the axel black.

Finally, take this opportunity to slap on some new wheels and tires!

View attachment 231465 View attachment 231468
Zack, what an awesome post!! As usual extremely well done!!
 
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