Zackdadams
Jet Boat Junkie
- Messages
- 290
- Reaction score
- 439
- Points
- 147
- Location
- MS Gulf Coast
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2021
- Boat Model
- FSH Sport
- Boat Length
- 25
Here is a detailed walk-through of my Trolling Motor project.
I would like to thank many members of the community for their input, and I'll be linking to different posts about these ideas.
Trolling Motor: Motorguide Xi5 72" 105lbs 36v with Pinpoint GPS
Battery: Dakota Lithium 36v 63AH LiFePO4 Battery
Shuttleslide UHD Mount
Step 1: Power
I decided to go with a Lithium battery, to keep down on weight, overall performance, and longevity.
I chose a Dakota Lithium 36v 63AH Battery. (Amp Hour is the overall run time)
It comes with a battery charger.
This should provide hours of use, which fits my casual fishing style.
If you are a more serious angler, you might consider a 100AH power source.
I've installed it inside a Noco HM408 Battery Box.
I've seen this installed in our boat from a Facebook post.
It fits perfectly, and makes for a clean, safe install.
You'll need to put the battery inside the box first, then slide it into place in the changing room.
I installed Velcro strips to the bottom of the battery, then lowered it into place inside the box.
This should keep it from sliding and bouncing around.
I drilled small pilot holes, then ran 1-1/4" stainless lag bolts with washers to lock it in place.
I ran #6 pure copper wire from the changing room to the trolling motor.
The wire is installed inside 1" split tubing.
You'll need to remove the black speaker and cup holder piece first, as well as the front seat.
Here's a detailed post from member @PerkDaddy on how to do that.
I'm installing a quick release Motorguide Power Outlet.
I chose a location for the outlet that it tucked away as much as possible, so someone can still sit there without any cords in their way.
Afterwards, I applied painters tape to keep from chipping the gel coat.
You'll want to run your hole saw in reverse until you get through the gel coat, then switch to forward to finish.
I believe it was an 1-1/4" hole saw.
Make sure to check behind the area for wires prior to drilling.
I drilled small holes for the bolts, and used #6 stainless pan-head bolts with washers and nuts to secure the outlet in place.
I'll attach some pictures below with the measurements for the location.
I then applied some dielectric grease inside my connectors, and slid on some heat-shrink tubing.
Afterwards, I crimped my connectors, heated the shrink tubing, added some split tubing, and taped everything up secure.
I'll attach some additional pictures of this below.
Next I soldered on some pure copper battery terminals with heat shrink tubing.
I installed a 60amp waterproof circuit breaker, and attached the wires to the battery, and charger.
I installed Velcro to the bottom of the battery charger, and the circuit breaker.
Note: I'll need to test for heat on this soon, so I don't damage anything.
The Noco box has holes in it, so I'm hoping there's enough ventilation.
EDIT: After the charger was running for a couple hours I checked, and it's getting pretty hot.
So i've installed a small piece of ceramic tile under the charger, and i'll keep lid off when charging.
I then ran a 25' waterproof extension cord from the charger to the back of the boat.
I used my Klein Glow Rods to reach under the floor.
Without getting off topic too much, I decided to go ahead and install a Noco dual battery charger for the existing batteries.
I installed a Noco power outlet, with 2 leads.
I had to remove the front and rear white plastic inside the battery storage area.
I also removed both cup holders from the area.
I plugged in the 25' extension cord, and the new Noco charger.
I drilled small pilot holes, and used the provided screws to finalize the port.
Now I can plug in the entire boat at once, and charge everything!
Power is done! On to the actual Trolling Motor!
I would like to thank many members of the community for their input, and I'll be linking to different posts about these ideas.
Trolling Motor: Motorguide Xi5 72" 105lbs 36v with Pinpoint GPS
Battery: Dakota Lithium 36v 63AH LiFePO4 Battery
Shuttleslide UHD Mount
Step 1: Power
I decided to go with a Lithium battery, to keep down on weight, overall performance, and longevity.
I chose a Dakota Lithium 36v 63AH Battery. (Amp Hour is the overall run time)
It comes with a battery charger.
This should provide hours of use, which fits my casual fishing style.
If you are a more serious angler, you might consider a 100AH power source.
I've installed it inside a Noco HM408 Battery Box.
I've seen this installed in our boat from a Facebook post.
It fits perfectly, and makes for a clean, safe install.
You'll need to put the battery inside the box first, then slide it into place in the changing room.
I installed Velcro strips to the bottom of the battery, then lowered it into place inside the box.
This should keep it from sliding and bouncing around.
I drilled small pilot holes, then ran 1-1/4" stainless lag bolts with washers to lock it in place.
I ran #6 pure copper wire from the changing room to the trolling motor.
The wire is installed inside 1" split tubing.
You'll need to remove the black speaker and cup holder piece first, as well as the front seat.
Here's a detailed post from member @PerkDaddy on how to do that.
I'm installing a quick release Motorguide Power Outlet.
Amazon.com : MotorGuide 8M4000954 Trolling Motor Power Receptacle, 2-Prong 12V, 24V or 36V Trolling Motors, for Bow-Panel Installation : Electric Trolling Motors : Sports & Outdoors
Amazon.com : MotorGuide 8M4000954 Trolling Motor Power Receptacle, 2-Prong 12V, 24V or 36V Trolling Motors, for Bow-Panel Installation : Electric Trolling Motors : Sports & Outdoors
www.amazon.com
I chose a location for the outlet that it tucked away as much as possible, so someone can still sit there without any cords in their way.
Afterwards, I applied painters tape to keep from chipping the gel coat.
You'll want to run your hole saw in reverse until you get through the gel coat, then switch to forward to finish.
I believe it was an 1-1/4" hole saw.
Make sure to check behind the area for wires prior to drilling.
I drilled small holes for the bolts, and used #6 stainless pan-head bolts with washers and nuts to secure the outlet in place.
I'll attach some pictures below with the measurements for the location.
I then applied some dielectric grease inside my connectors, and slid on some heat-shrink tubing.
Afterwards, I crimped my connectors, heated the shrink tubing, added some split tubing, and taped everything up secure.
I'll attach some additional pictures of this below.
Next I soldered on some pure copper battery terminals with heat shrink tubing.
I installed a 60amp waterproof circuit breaker, and attached the wires to the battery, and charger.
I installed Velcro to the bottom of the battery charger, and the circuit breaker.
Note: I'll need to test for heat on this soon, so I don't damage anything.
The Noco box has holes in it, so I'm hoping there's enough ventilation.
EDIT: After the charger was running for a couple hours I checked, and it's getting pretty hot.
So i've installed a small piece of ceramic tile under the charger, and i'll keep lid off when charging.
I then ran a 25' waterproof extension cord from the charger to the back of the boat.
I used my Klein Glow Rods to reach under the floor.
Without getting off topic too much, I decided to go ahead and install a Noco dual battery charger for the existing batteries.
I installed a Noco power outlet, with 2 leads.
I had to remove the front and rear white plastic inside the battery storage area.
I also removed both cup holders from the area.
I plugged in the 25' extension cord, and the new Noco charger.
I drilled small pilot holes, and used the provided screws to finalize the port.
Now I can plug in the entire boat at once, and charge everything!
Power is done! On to the actual Trolling Motor!
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