Fuel Gauge - Help Requested

[TOGA]

This is the year my well maintained and always reliable 2006 is showing its age.

Last weekend while running down the TN river, I looked down and my fuel gauge was gone.

Just a hole in the dash.

When we stopped running, I looked in the compartment below the console and found the gauge in amongst the wiring harness.

It wasn't hard to understand how it mounted and what had happened.

The face place had broken from the gauge and the beaty ring was still on the console.

I brought it in, super glued it back together for a quick fix and reinstalled it today.

Now it doesn't work.

The red light flashes once when you turn the key to power, but the needle doesn't move at all.

I have perfect pass spliced in for power at the switch and perfect pass does turn on, so because of that (and the red light flash) I know it is getting power.

The gauge was working when I disconnected (if I remember correctly). Pretty sure I remember checking fuel level before disconnecting.

I checked for any other connections / fuses under console but see nothing.

I checked connection at fuel sender and it is connected.

I do have the new fuel sending unit upgrade.

Anyone have any ideas or things for me to check?

 

[Beachbummer]

You will need to research a little on the pin out, but essentially it runs by checking resistance between 2 pins. Take it to the bench and apply the right power to the right pins and it should fly to the full mark..break the connection to the "float" pins where the fuel level info normally comes, and it should go to Empty. If not, the gauge is bad.

 

[Beachbummer]

Here is the thread you are looking for
https://jetboaters.net/threads/fuel-tank-plus-terminal.20702/#lg=thread-20702&slide=1

 

[TOGA]

Here is the thread you are looking for
https://jetboaters.net/threads/fuel-tank-plus-terminal.20702/#lg=thread-20702&slide=1

Appreciate the guidance.

So if remove the gauge and make the following connections:

Purple to Positive
Black to Negative
and then
Pink to Negative

It should go to Full. If not it's bad?

Is that simply-worded understanding correct?

- - - I got sticker shock when I first searched for this part and they were all over $330+. I've since found one for $120 which is more palatable.

 

[Beachbummer]

Yes, your plan to test is correct. Also, when you take the pink off negative the gauge should return to Empty. Test both scenarios.

You can buy a generic gauge if you are in a pinch. I bought one from KUS that has worked great so far when mine went bad, but the connector is not identical, so there is some splicing involved. I'm going to see if I find the original purchase info.

 

[TOGA]

Yes, your plan to test is correct. Also, when you take the pink off negative the gauge should return to Empty. Test both scenarios.

You can buy a generic gauge if you are in a pinch. I bought one from KUS that has worked great so far when mine went bad, but the connector is not identical, so there is some splicing involved. I'm going to see if I find the original purchase info.

Thanks for confirming.

I found this when searching for KUS: CPFR-BS-240-33 Fuel Level Gauge

I'm assuming the opening / size is universal.?

How does it look in dash beside factory gauges?

I'm not in a pinch for one. I always fill up before hitting the water and know we can run / play / etc. all day and not run out. Just want boat to be the way it supposed to be.

 

[Beachbummer]

Picture is not great, I'll take another tomorrow hopefully. I think it looks pretty good. Hole is standard size. (52mm or so if I recall correctly) It's not a factory match, but you can be the judge of what the difference in price buys you.

 

[Gym]

Looks great from here.

 

[Beachbummer]

Better picture taken today.

 

[Scuba_ref]

There was a thread about replacing the gauge with one from another boat manufacturer. Don't remember it off the top of my head. I think @Julian is the one who posted it.

 

[Julian]

There was a thread about replacing the gauge with one from another boat manufacturer. Don't remember it off the top of my head. I think @Julian is the one who posted it.

I posted about fixing the sensor....not the gauge

 

[Scuba_ref]

I posted about fixing the sensor....not the gauge

You are correct sir, my apologies!

 

[Beachbummer]

Our boats use 240-33 Ohms range. Any Gauge matching the electric specifications will work. Ohm range and 12v. (wiring may need to be spliced, 99% sure the non specific gauges will not have the same connector. You could reuse the connector from the current gauge since it's trash anyway if its indeed faulty.

The hole is a standard "small" 52mm hole.

 

[TOGA]

Tested gauge and got no response. Found the new item # for $120 so I went with it so I can remove 4 screws and swap this thing out without spicing wires.

I appreciate your help, Beachbummer, working through this.

I assume that that the needle /mechanism somehow got broken in transit after the housing broke.

I'm past the BOAT threshold for the year (Break Out Another Thousand), but not by much on a 13 year old boat that still runs great and provides great fun for the family. Still never hesitate to take it out for a 90 mile trip from dam-to-dam.

If the new gauge doesn't fix it, I'm sure you'll hear from me again.

 

[Gym]

Tested gauge and got no response. Found the new item # for $120 so I went with it so I can remove 4 screws and swap this thing out without spicing wires.

I appreciate your help, Beachbummer, working through this.

I assume that that the needle /mechanism somehow got broken in transit after the housing broke.

I'm past the BOAT threshold for the year (Break Out Another Thousand), but not by much on a 13 year old boat that still runs great and provides great fun for the family. Still never hesitate to take it out for a 90 mile trip from dam-to-dam.

If the new gauge doesn't fix it, I'm sure you'll hear from me again.

Let's hear from you anyway @TOGA. Let us know what you did for a fix. Pics would be a big plus also. That will likely help someone else out. That's how we build our info base.

 

[TOGA]

10/4. Will do.

Part is on order from Boats.net. F1T-U8241-01-00 FUEL GAUGE (Yamaha) $119.47

This is supposed to be the new version of the previous part labeled F1T-U8241-10-00 that was discontinued.

It is supposed to have the same 6 pin connector and was more than $200 less than what was listed on Yamahapartshouse.com.

Added a couple oil filters and a dry bag to get free shipping. You can always use another dry bag and the oil filters were $5 less each than what I had been getting on Amazon.

Said they had it in stock, so once it gets here, we'll know in 5 minutes if it fixes the problem with the gauge not working after breaking at the housing from 13 years of fun in the sun.

 

[Gym]

I hear ya @TOGA I have the same year & model as you.

 

[TOGA]

10/4. Will do.

Part is on order from Boats.net. F1T-U8241-01-00 FUEL GAUGE (Yamaha) $119.47

This is supposed to be the new version of the previous part labeled F1T-U8241-10-00 that was discontinued.

It is supposed to have the same 6 pin connector and was more than $200 less than what was listed on Yamahapartshouse.com.

Added a couple oil filters and a dry bag to get free shipping. You can always use another dry bag and the oil filters were $5 less each than what I had been getting on Amazon.

Said they had it in stock, so once it gets here, we'll know in 5 minutes if it fixes the problem with the gauge not working after breaking at the housing from 13 years of fun in the sun.

Got the part from Boats.net (F1T-U8241-01-00) after a slight delay from the vendor. The said it was going to ship on Monday and on wednesday it still hadn't shipped. I open the CHAT box and asked what the delay was. They said one item was backordered. It was the dry bag. I explained that the dry bag wasn't important and that I needed the actual boat parts to get repairs made before the weekend. They overnighted the gauge so I was able to get it working for the weekend.

Plugged it in and it woke right up. Only difference with this gauge from the factory gauge is that there is no low fuel warning light. The plug connection is the same, but it was missing one pin and the indicator on the face is absent. I don't really care if it has the indicator as I never run my boat that low on fuel anyway.

Anyway, $120 was much better than the $300+ on all the other internet sites.

Hopefully I don't have a bunch of other gauges that are about to fall apart after 13 years on the water.

I have had several of the toggle switches for bilge, lights, etc. fall out from dried out plastic breaking, but I've found that a drop of superglue repairs them quite well.

Thanks @Beachbummer for guiding me through diagnostics.

N0w if we can get the rain to move on outta here we can fill'er up.

 

[DeathBySanity]

@Beachbummer can you help provide a pic of your wiring connections? I am installing next weekend!