Fuel tank Deck Cover

[Marshall]

Hello again, Its the same 2008, SX 232 limited, . I'm doing
some of what I thought would be some easy repairs but no so.
My aft cabin drain broke off. The PLASTIC one just below the the engine
compartment release latch. You must remove the deck plate over the fuel
tank. WHY are those screws so dang hard to get out ? What tool do you use.
I'm using a #4 square head bit I found ,but it has worn to the point it is not working .
These seem to be hard to find on Line . Who has do this , was it really hard , where did you get the
square drive bit ? thanks to everyone.

 

[jetboater4life]

Here is a thread that might help
https://jetboaters.net/threads/tank-hatch-stripped-bolt.2201/#post-34338

 

[Scottintexas]

that driver is a hard one to find,

http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/GPC-1006PP-p-GPC0202.html

some of us have had an adhesive on the threads that make them terrible to get out, just get the right tool and slowly go back and forth to help loosen them.

 

[jetboater4life]

that driver is a hard one to find,

http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/GPC-1006PP-p-GPC0202.html

some of us have had an adhesive on the threads that make them terrible to get out, just get the right tool and slowly go back and forth to help loosen them.

I bought 4 of them from that site. I think it was just about the same price for one since the shipping was the biggest expense. They don't itemize the expense on checkout so it was bit of a mystery for the price until the bill came. I have 3 that have the heads busted off. I'm going to create a slot with my dremel and then heat it up with a soldering iron tip so I can maybe get it to twist out with a gigantic flathead screw driver I happen to have.

 

[Andy S]

What has worked for me is the #4 square bit (robertson) in 1/4" drive adapted up to a 1/2" ratchet. I first spray a little liquid wrench, then with a lot of downward pressure I slowly turn the ratchet. Prior to re-installing the bolts I clean the threads and use anti-seize on each bolt.

As for where find the #4 square bit, around me electrical supply houses carry them.

 

[Marshall]

Thanks to All for the info, It's good to know I'm not the only one with the
same problem. The ones I managed to remove also have the white stuff on them. It looks
like 5200 adhesive . No wonder they won't come out . I also just ordered a driver, thanks Scottintexas.
All of my wife's relatives are in Texas .
What a great site this is !

 

[jetboater4life]

Here is another link for the #4 bit
http://www.amazon.com/Wera-Series-S...&qid=1406504918&sr=8-2&keywords=#4+square+bit

 

[Big Shasta]

Be thankful you have screws...I'll have to cut open my deck if I need to get in there. Good thinking on that one Yamaha.

 

[Sjetter]

I had some easy-outs laying around and I just cut the squared shank at the 3/16" portion with a cutting tool. Worked great, the material on these are very hard and held up well initially removing the bolts. I also lightly lubed with some anti-seize when I installed them to help next time they are removed.

 

[txav8r]

I used my dewalt 18v cordless drill and the flat blade bit diagonally across the square drive. It worked perfectly, however, I did not have any of the locking compound that others have found on the threads. Those bolts are large, and running a tap through them once removed would be a good idea to clean out residual thread locker. Some have changed their fuel tank hatch bolts to socket head to avoid having the issues. I don't think it is the head design as much as some of these bolts were installed with a thread locker, and the tools don't have enough bite to move those large diameter bolts, which btw, are 5/16" pan head, square drive #4, 18 thread, 2" long.

 

[Pewaukee Dave]

I got mine off and replaced all the bolts with SS cap screws.

 

[txav8r]

I forgot to post the pic of the fastener the other day...

 

[Scottintexas]

@Julian
or this one link for the bolt size, I'll let you decide,

 

[Julian]

@Scottintexas Added to the FAQ under Maintenance #29

 

[utahrd]

I forgot to post the pic of the fastener the other day...View attachment 9599

does anyone know where to buy the plastic bushing or a part number ?

 

[Andy S]

I use partspak.com as a starting point of my part searches, http://www.partspak.com/productcart...F_(2007_BOAT)/DECK_HATCH_1_(SXT1100AF_-_2007) what you are looking for is item #26 Yamaha part number F0R-U1747-00-00

 

[txav8r]

Yep, that is it, #26 on that diagram, $1.10, certainly high for a little piece of plastic, but wow, that is cheap for a boat part! lol

 

[Chillypilot]

I've noticed a lot of people have had trouble removing their fuel hatch, so I was a little nervous about removing mine. I think many people try to do this job with the wrong tools and strip or break the screws. Glad to report mine came out with no problems. Here's what I did/used.

1. Sprayed screws with penetrating oil several times. I let the oil sit for 2 days.
2. Used a impact wrench with 3/16 square male pipe plug socket. ***caution*** impact wrenches create a lot of torque. I would not use it to tighten the screws on the hatch. You could drive the screw through the hatch!

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Great forum sticker placement! If you guys need one please pm me or see the swag section on how to order.

 

[smthng]

Going to resurrect this thread a bit... Taking my hatch off to run a new transducer to the bilge. I managed to get all but 5 bolts manually with a stainless #4 robertson bit, a socket and an adaptor to use a 3/8 ratchet. Some of the bolts started to wallow out, but aren't yet rounded. Three sessions of PB blaster have been done. I got a Craftsman 3-speed impact driver, which managed to get one more bolt out on the highest torque/speed setting. The other 4 didn't budge. All removed bolts have a LOT of white residue, which has been discussed in other threads and is either adhesive, galvanization or salt. I suspect it's adhesive... salt or galvination residue would either cover the whole bolt or only where the threads weren't engaged. Mine covers the lower half of the bolt, which makes me think it was applied. Also, all but one bolt have turned slightly at some point and are now "re-seized", leading me to think that the white stuff has just jammed them up a bit more.


Remaining options I've seen in other threads are basically "more oomph", "easy out or drill it", and heat.

• Heat - a last resort for me... in order for the bolt to get hot enough to heat all the way to the nut, I think it would melt the plastic bushing... which would seize it even more if it didn't come out. I might attempt heating if the bolt head shears off and I can get the hatch off so I can then use vice grips. Although... I have to keep reminding myself that it's a plastic fuel tank right under that. :S
• "Easy out or drill"... I hate easy outs, even though I just bought the biggest ones Sears has. I've had too many of them break off leaving a not-flat piece of hardened steel in the way and making it impossible to drill the remainder of the bolt. I'm kind of waiting until I completely round out the bolts before attempting an easy-out.
• "More oomph" - I have a 1/2" drive air impact wrench and can probably get enough adapters to use the Robertson bit. They have held up well to the 19 volt impact, I think they'll survive the air impact. The bolts will not, one way or another. Somewhere in this fine country is a pipe plug impact socket on a UPS truck that will make it to me eventually.

Should I wait for the pipe plug bit? Should I attempt the 1/2 air impact on them? Any other options I'm overlooking?