HELP HELP BLEW HOSE

[jb32566]

So we're headed back and I noticed that the boat is started to feel swamped and I popped a beached and pop the back and sure enough it looks like we blew a hose need help knowing where to reattach it build seems to be training decently

 

[the MfM]

[USERGROUP=9]@HELP[/USERGROUP]

 

[Scottintexas]

[USERGROUP=9]@HELP[/USERGROUP] sorry I don't know BRP engines

 

[Scottintexas]

is the water hot or cold ? if it's hot it's coming from the engine and if it's high enough when you start the engine or give it a rev you may be able to see where it's coming from,

if it's cold it's from your intake,

wherever it connects it should be within the length of the hose (assuming it's not been broken),



.

 

[the MfM]

Looks like it might be a coolant intake hose for the exhaust.

Don’t run the engine till it’s fixed and you’ve checked to make sure the air filter is dry... I’d probably pull the spark plugs and turn the engine over. Make sure no water is in i the cylinders.


And keep an eye on the oil.

 

[Dean P]

So we're headed back and I noticed that the boat is started to feel swamped and I popped a beached and pop the back and sure enough it looks like we blew a hose need help knowing where to reattach it build seems to be training decentlyView attachment 94283

What is the other end connected to? Please take more pictures and not so zoomed in.

 

[Scottintexas]

This is a seadoo BRP diagram, I think it should be similar, just trying to google something to help you until BRP guru chimes in,


.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

I have a 2015 165. As another person mentioned, too close of a picture to know what I'm looking at. But based on my best guess, it looks like the port side of the engine looking just forward of the water box. If so, here's a picture of mine. There are three hoses for me that join in that area. But I can't see those in your pic. Are they lower maybe? Underneath?

 

[jb32566]

I think it was an exhaust water hose. Its attached and were about to load up

 

[jb32566]

Ill post specifics later with more pics to assess the damage

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Good. And if there's that much water, definitely seems right. May I recommend, always check all the clamps you can get too regularly. I check mine twice a season. I always find a few that get loose over time.

 

[Beachbummer]

keep an eye on it if you don't have a high water alarm.

If it came out once and it's not secured it can slip out again.
cable tie or metal wire can be used to secure it temporarily.

 

[swatski]

I think @DieselCamel @veedubtek would know something about it, those large black exhaust conenctions to the water box can melt if run with no raw water cooling (exhaust)..

--

 

[jb32566]

FML. what an ordeal.
voice to text completely garbled that first post.

now that i'm home here's a summary:
boat under 3h still. we were headed back home from a small beachhead we like and i was playing with the rpm periodically 3k,5k, 3k,4k, etc. i went from nearly idle to around 4.5k and instead of planing, the nose went up and didn't come down.

i didn't hear a bilge alarm but i flipped the switch and it started spouting out like mad. the wife said it was hot.
we weren't far from shore so i limped over there and beached.

the hose in question attached to low on the engine, port side. the clamp wasn't even hand tight. I thought I'd checked them all, but I never saw that one.

should i pull the plugs and the air filter myself or should i go tell the dealer to do it free of charge?

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Wow, definitely sounds like somebody at Scarab forgot to tighten a clamp. Yeah, definitely exhaust cooling water if it was hot. I've seen others report such problems. Sadly, clamps on boats in general are something you have to keep an eye on. But of course, brand new sounds like somebody forgot something.

This type of thing is pretty scary on big lakes if you can't get to shore quickly or if you don't notice for a while like you. I thought about installing a bilge alarm in my 165 in case something like this happens, or an extra bilge entirely to help pump water out quickly. But if the cooling is disconnected, you won't be boating very far before something starts to melt. I think this story is pushing me to get an alarm installed. I'd rather know about it early so I can head to shore or repair the problem, etc.

Considering this is a brand new boat, I would talk to the dealer. They need to be aware of this. Once you get the boat back, I would still verify clamps. Simple to do and obviously important. You can also just tug on pipes and see if they come loose.

How high did the water get in the engine bay? Was it actually high enough to reach the air filter? Mine is above the engine block, that would be a lot of water.

 

[jb32566]

the water wasn't high enough to reach the air filter, but i'll pull it and see if it's dry later tonight.

i can't tell if this was intake or exhaust.. i'll have to translate that schematic above or from the manual scarabmike posted.

i attached some pics.
the first is the hose that came loose and where it connects on the port side of the engine. the other side of that hose goes to a t-junction. one side of the t junction goes to the rear of the hull the other goes up to another t-junction on the (intercooler?) that line can be followed to the remote exhaust flush on the rear of of the boat

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Yeah, that looks like the exact T junction I posted above. If the water was hot, then it must be the hot coming out of the exhaust system making its way out of the boat. If it was intake, the water would have been cool. The motor would not have had enough time to heat up all that water that quickly in the bottom of the boat. It must have gone through the exhaust system first.

Well, I'm glad you realized what was going on fairly quickly. I've read a few such stories since I've been a member... you've encouraged me to go and buy a bilge alarm. I thought about putting a second bilge in, but I think I'd rather just know of the problem. I can always bail via bucket if I'm that desperate. From experience, buckets are MUCH faster than bilge pumps anyways. Even high capacity ones. I helped recover a sunken sailboat a few year ago, had an electric and a gas pump + bucket. Bucket won easily. If the alarm goes off, I can always find the leak and plug it temporarily.

I'm researching alarms right now. But I'm thinking of doing something really simple. Float switch with 12V buzzer connected to the battery. I found stuff pretty cheap on Amazon to make this easily and it would make an 85db alarm. Simple enough.

 

[Beachbummer]

So, I'm glad you saved it and the water stayed outside the engine!!!! Excellent News!

If the boat was running just fine, you don't have any water ingestion to be concerned about. That is good news.

If you want to go talk to the dealer go ahead, but I wouldn't waste my time taking the boat in. You already fixed it.

Speaking very crudely about what you want to get out of them... What would you like to accomplish with your time and aggravation invested in going to see them? you already know they are incapable of doing it better than you, or they would have done it, so it will be a painful exercise of sucking blood out of a turnip. (I hope I'm wrong, but this is how I would feel, so I would chew them out, but not take the boat in, since that would be a waste of my time)

Regarding the bilge alarm...

I installed a bilge alarm with a cheap 12v buzzer and 2 indicator lights. I could not figure out how to do what I wanted without a relay, so there is one in there. Alarm light and buzzer only come in if the float activates the circuit. if I turn the bilge on manually, and the float is not triggered, there is no alarm. I have 3 bilge pumps total. OEM + 2x Tsunami 1200, which are pretty low draw. In my case, all pumps come on if the float is triggered, and by the water flow and number of holes with water I can tell if the water is going up or not. Best mod for piece of mind. Already saved my prior boat twice, and once for the new owner. On the old boat I just wired the buzzer and light in the circuit with one extra pump, so manual or float, a loud piezo peeeeeee came on, which helped ensure you did not forget to turn the pump off....I called it a feature, but I fixed it for the new (to me) boat.

 

[jb32566]

Regarding the bilge alarm...

I installed a bilge alarm with a cheap 12v buzzer and 2 indicator lights. I could not figure out how to do what I wanted without a relay, so there is one in there. Alarm light and buzzer only come in if the float activates the circuit. if I turn the bilge on manually, and the float is not triggered, there is no alarm. I have 3 bilge pumps total. OEM + 2x Tsunami 1200, which are pretty low draw. In my case, all pumps come on if the float is triggered, and by the water flow and number of holes with water I can tell if the water is going up or not. Best mod for piece of mind. Already saved my prior boat twice, and once for the new owner. On the old boat I just wired the buzzer and light in the circuit with one extra pump, so manual or float, a loud piezo peeeeeee came on, which helped ensure you did not forget to turn the pump off....I called it a feature, but I fixed it for the new (to me) boat.

If you have pics and/or a schematic I would like to see it. I'm very limited on dash space so additional lights need to be very strategic.

I'm going to install a 2nd pump and/or a bilge alarm. no question. I started another thread about that.
so, at what point are we done with mods?

 

[Beachbummer]

To add the alarm to buzz only when the float triggers, i wired the float switch to ground, and used the float output to trigger the relay coil. The relay has positive power connected on the common pole. And then to the bilge pump on the normally open pole.

This will make the relay power the pump when the float triggers. To wire the alarm and/or light, you can power the positive from your power source, and the negative from the ground after the float. This will trigger the alarm and power the pump independent of the manual switch, which will also power the pump regardless of the alarm.