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There is a set of contacts for each engine in the lanyard switch, so one can start and run fine while the other will not. Exercise if a few times and see if it starts.
I believe the lanyard is the only kill switch that allows the starter to turn. The neutral and clean out latch won't even let the boat try to do anything.
There is 1 kill switch for each engine that allow the engines to turn on when the wet hatch is closed. you should see 2 black push button switches in there.
There is 1 kill switch for each engine that allow the engines to turn on when the wet hatch is closed. you should see 2 black push button switches in there.
Do you mean by the clean out ports? We tested those by manually pushing both down.
Also - I received a check engine light and an error code the first time, but they are not coming on any more. It was like a YDMS Code 1 and ODMS - something. I just went to play with lanyard several times and saw a error quickly pop on the screen but disappear.... Can't get it to do it again.
It literally acts like the lanyard is not connected.
I agree it prob the lanyard.. if the hatch door is open it will not even turn over so I can't be those switches.. the lanyard switch had to be pulled up all the way so the contacts on both engines will align.
@adrianp89, @bronze_10 is correct. If the plastic clip on thè lanyard or the switch is slightly warn the contacts for each engine will not make inhibiting the ignition to one engine. I had to manually hold the lanyard switch all the way up on a friends boat to find this issue. You may want to try that. If that works you can wrap the clip with electrial tape as a temporary fix. I see you have a 2017. Is it still under warranty?
In theory the cleanout hatch switches could be the cause as well. Each switch has two circuits one cuts off the ignition, the other disengages the starter. So if somehow one of the two circuits broke, the starter could spin while the ignition wouldn't fire. Very small chance of it being the cause. However you can simply reach inside the removable tray (depending on year and model), and unplug the switches and swap the plugs. If the problem jumps to the other engine, it's the switch, if not, keep looking.
Actually, the same can be done with the lanyard switch. Gain access to it, swap plugs and see if the problem jumps to the other engine. That would indicate a bad lanyard switch.
It needs to be worked on from behind. Depends on the boat as to how to access it. Some can be reached through a cup holder, others by way of front storage areas and I have read about someone loosening and lifting the throttle controls to gain access.
As promised, I am following up. He said there was moisture on the rings, but they are unsure how it got there. They cleaned it out and compression is now fine, and the boat did fine on a test drive. Sorry I can't be more specific, I'm not an engine guy. They are concerned how moisture got into the engine, and engine compartment has been dry, and the filters are bone dry, even on the test drive. They are going to keep it two more days for further testing and I should have her back Sunday. Everything is covered under warranty but hopefully the issue does not happen again. We had some good size swells while anchored out - that is the only thing I can think of... something happened then.
EDIT: The dealer installed a fogger port on each engine - I wonder if this could be the cause for moisture.