How long will a full battery keep my bilge pump on for?

[0627Devildog]

So, as I tied the boat up this weekend and left to come back to reality. . . I realized that I wasn't sure exactly how the bilge pump functions in my boat.

Does the battery switch need to be in the ON position?
Did the pump switch have to be in the ON position?

Or

Is it entirely automatic without drawing any power unless activated (as it Logically should be)?

Well, as I sat in the boat contemplating these things (after realizing I didn't have the manual on board) I came to the site to search out the answer. Which I found here [https://jetboaters.net/threads/owners-manuals.122/ (GOD, I love this site) ] in the form of a link to the owners manual in .pdf format.

Apparently, not only do you have to leave the battery switch on. . . . but the lit bilge pump switch as well.

So my question is, how long until my single battery is completely dead (barring any leaks/water infiltration)? Will I make it until Friday afternoon when I am back onsite?

Since I am not directly connected to shore power this is a bit of a concern at the moment. I do have a spare battery should the one on the boat be dead when I arrive. But I am left deeply concerned about how long it will stay on, and what the condition of the battery will be once I get there.

and WHY oh WHY do they require the battery/bilge switch be on (including the switch light) when there are float actuated AUTOMATIC switches out there?

Suggestions?

 

[davel501]

Brand new battery should be fine for 8-10 days.

 

[Boat Crazy]

I do not remember the time frame, however your bilge pump will cycle every (I believe it is 3 minutes) turn on, check for water and if none, turn itself off and repeat. Many who keep their boat in water for long periods install bilge pumps with a water sensing switch, which only turns the pump on when it senses water. I believe there is at least one topic on this. To check your bilge pump for proper operation, (I usually open the engine cover to do this ) with battery power on, bilge switch off, turn on bilge switch, listen for bilge pump to cycle and turn off. If you do not hear the bilge pump turn on, you need to troubleshoot it. Periodically, you should remove the pump from it's mounting (lift up from mounting by pressing in on side clips )and clean pump screen located underneath. Dirt and debris can prevent the bilge pump from properly sucking up water.

 

[0627Devildog]

I definitely heard it cycle when I hit the switch. . . . . considering it is only the 5th time I had it out, it damn well better have = )

That said, I am DEFINITELY going to have to install an automatic bilge pump with a float switch right next to this thing. I don't like the idea of keeping the battery and switch in the ON position with a cycling pump and light that eat power.

Then I need to run some shore power ASAP.

 

[steined]

I installed a Johnson pump 1000gph with a new through hull fitting in addition to the stock pump. It has a field effect electric sensor that turns the pump on when it senses water. I hard wired it (with fuse of course) to the battery. I also removed the wiring from the stock pump and wired the stock switch to be the manual override switch on the new pump. So now if I flip the switch the pump runs.

I also wired the stock pump up to its own fuse on my open seas fuse panel which is switched with the house battery. It will be at the ready when the house switch is on.

So my standard procedure now is get in boat and forget about bilge. Then when I leave the boat, turn off the house and start switch.

I have a water witch switch I meant to wire up to the stock pump, but I was so hot and dehydrated installing and wiring the switch that I didn't realize it until I was done and my wife asked what that part was! That gives me something to do later. Once installed I can accidentally leave house power on and not kill the battery via bilge as well.

 

[0627Devildog]

That sounds like the route I will go. Not sure about another through hull connection at the moment. . . . but definitely an independently hardwired, fused pump.

 

[0627Devildog]

Apparently, though I swear I searched beforehand and could not locate it. . . . . there was a detailed thread on this which can also be found here:

https://jetboaters.net/threads/bilge-and-battery.2166/#post-34075

 

[jdonalds]

I would not rely on the stock bilge pump if I left my boat in the water unattended.

I installed a new 500 GPM pump when mine died a few years ago. The one I purchased is a simple pump. I added a Water Witch electric switch. No drain on the battery like the OEM pump. I trust the electric switch more than I trust a mechanical float switch.

I think if I left my boat in the water unattended often I'd add a second pump just for peace of mind.

 

[0627Devildog]

I would not rely on the stock bilge pump if I left my boat in the water unattended.

I installed a new 500 GPM pump when mine died a few years ago. The one I purchased is a simple pump. I added a Water Witch electric switch. No drain on the battery like the OEM pump. I trust the electric switch more than I trust a mechanical float switch.

I think if I left my boat in the water unattended often I'd add a second pump just for peace of mind.

Definitely getting on this, dual batteries, a solar hook up, and shore power ASAP.

 

[txav8r]

@0627Devildog , the automatic feature of the bilge pump is great for a trailer boat...not so great if you leave the boat in the water 24/7 with no available power to keep the batterie(s) topped off. So going with a float type switch is better, and making it hot instead of on the switch. If your not going to keep a charger on your battery(s), adding a second battery will buy you more time without running them down, but it adds a second battery that isn't being maintained properly. This just may be a cost you suffer and have to deal with, and if it is, so be it. But I would rather play the battery drag game than be stranded at some point. Why not rig a small cart to drag your battery back to the house and use the second battery to swap out once a week or once a month, whatever it figures to help you keep them maintained? Just a thought...until your able to get the shore power rigged, or the solar set up.

 

[Kevin1741]

I installed a Johnson pump 1000gph with a new through hull fitting in addition to the stock pump. It has a field effect electric sensor that turns the pump on when it senses water. I hard wired it (with fuse of course) to the battery. I also removed the wiring from the stock pump and wired the stock switch to be the manual override switch on the new pump. So now if I flip the switch the pump runs.

I also wired the stock pump up to its own fuse on my open seas fuse panel which is switched with the house battery. It will be at the ready when the house switch is on.

So my standard procedure now is get in boat and forget about bilge. Then when I leave the boat, turn off the house and start switch.

I have a water witch switch I meant to wire up to the stock pump, but I was so hot and dehydrated installing and wiring the switch that I didn't realize it until I was done and my wife asked what that part was! That gives me something to do later. Once installed I can accidentally leave house power on and not kill the battery via bilge as well.

I'm going to add a second bilge soon. Did you use a similar thru hull fitting? I would like to match it up

 

[Big Shasta]

WORST Design ever,....A pump that has to turn on to check for water? What freakin year is this? I can't believe they are still putting that crap in new boats. I changed mine with a Rule 750 water sensing pump. It turns on only if it needs to and I wired it directly to the battery (with an inline fuse of course) so no more forgetting to run on the switch or worrying if I left it on when it's at a dock. I plan on adding a second further up with an alarm and on a float switch as a backup.

 

[ken4motion]

I can tell you from first hand experience, about a week of power with heavy rain for a day.

 

[txav8r]

I don't know if the auto sensing bilge pumps are a bad design...the make up much of the market on trailer boats, and are more reliable than float switch type triggers for boats that don't get washed with water often. It is not a good design for those that leave their boats in the water full time. But just like a battery or stereo upgrade, everyone has different design expectations and parameters. If it doesn't do what you want it to, change it. The auto sensing pump works just fine for me and most folks that trailer their boats. In no way do I mean any disrespect to those that need a different type of pump, I am just pointing out that their is more than one way to skin the cat.

 

[Julian]

Lots of factors to weigh here, but my experience is that my battery would last 14-17 days with just the bilge pump on. It was pretty consistent too. No matter how much rain etc. My boat had no leaks.....so your performance may vary....

 

[cwoav8r]

I don't like the idea of keeping the battery and switch in the ON position with a cycling pump and light that eat power.

I hated that lighted switch for the bilge, it got really freakin' hot. I don't know how they keep from melting. First thing I did was remove the bilge wire from the switch and hook it up straight to the circuit breaker. If the battery is on, the pump is on... no switch to forget.

I changed mine with a Rule 750 water sensing pump.

Me too... I may reuse the stock 500 as a switched backup, or buy another 750. Lord knows I need two!

 

[Big Shasta]

I don't know if the auto sensing bilge pumps are a bad design...the make up much of the market on trailer boats, and are more reliable than float switch type triggers for boats that don't get washed with water often. It is not a good design for those that leave their boats in the water full time. But just like a battery or stereo upgrade, everyone has different design expectations and parameters. If it doesn't do what you want it to, change it. The auto sensing pump works just fine for me and most folks that trailer their boats. In no way do I mean any disrespect to those that need a different type of pump, I am just pointing out that their is more than one way to skin the cat.

That is true, It just seems like they have skinned the cat in the least efficient way.

The rule pumps don't use a float switch, here's a blurb about it:
The new eco-friendly Rule Mate series of Bilge pumps feature a solid state water sensing technology that eliminates the need for a separate float switch. When water enters the bilge and reaches a certain height (2-3/4 inches) a sensor turns the pump on. After the water is pumped out, another sensor shuts the pump off.
The sensor's unique "field effect" technology is programmed to recognize the dielectric constant of water only. In the event of an onboard oil spill, straight motor oil that enters the bilge will not turn the pump on. It's part of Rule's continuing commitment to preserving our waterway.

Everything can fail....... folks should be testing their pump on a regular basis anyway. The rule has a button on the side for this....I let the hose run in the bilge until it kicks on.

 

[txav8r]

I am a little confused by the marketing and representation of that pump Ken. I look up Rule Bilge Pumps and I am taken to the Rule website... http://www.rulepumpsupply.com and no mention of the Rule Mate series. I do a search and find the Rule Mate, available in 500 to 1100 gph. If you go to the Rule website, you will find that indeed they do make bilge pumps with float switches, as a matter of fact, the auto sensing pumps that have come stock on Yamaha boats for years and still to this day...are Rule Pumps. Rule is a division of King Pumps. I like a few things about the pump you chose, the idea that it eliminates the auto sensing in favor of solid state for one. But the need to have a 2.75" depth before it operates is a problem in our boats, unless you block the path to the transom drain and build a base for it there, and even then, 2.75" is excessive in our boats. Also, placing the pump in that location will make it difficult to reach. Part of routine maintenance is to clean the screen frequently to prevent pump overload and failure. And if I pull the Rule pump I have and install this pump right where the stock pump is located, I have to have 2.75" of water in my engine compartment to trigger this pump. I don't like that idea at all. Granted, I am playing devils advocate here, but all of us scrutinize changes in what we know. It may be a much better mouse trap but sometimes simple is better. Bottom line, this technology seems to be new and not even listed on Rules website, and a search, which isn't shown until your on an item screen, links you to the King website where this pump is located. If your running this pump Ken, can you show some pics of where you installed it and how you get to it? Again, this may be a better pump for some, but then again, I wouldn't put 2 pumps in my boat either, and I am a total fan of redundancy. I would like to hear more about this pump and what the ups and downs of it are, and user feedback. It may indeed skin the cat in a better way, let's find out!

 

[steined]

I'm going to add a second bilge soon. Did you use a similar thru hull fitting? I would like to match it up

No I used a stainless through hull that's sized for the 1000gph hose (I forget size off the top of my head)

 

[Big Shasta]

I am a little confused by the marketing and representation of that pump Ken. I look up Rule Bilge Pumps and I am taken to the Rule website... http://www.rulepumpsupply.com and no mention of the Rule Mate series. I do a search and find the Rule Mate, available in 500 to 1100 gph. If you go to the Rule website, you will find that indeed they do make bilge pumps with float switches, as a matter of fact, the auto sensing pumps that have come stock on Yamaha boats for years and still to this day...are Rule Pumps. Rule is a division of King Pumps. I like a few things about the pump you chose, the idea that it eliminates the auto sensing in favor of solid state for one. But the need to have a 2.75" depth before it operates is a problem in our boats, unless you block the path to the transom drain and build a base for it there, and even then, 2.75" is excessive in our boats. Also, placing the pump in that location will make it difficult to reach. Part of routine maintenance is to clean the screen frequently to prevent pump overload and failure. And if I pull the Rule pump I have and install this pump right where the stock pump is located, I have to have 2.75" of water in my engine compartment to trigger this pump. I don't like that idea at all. Granted, I am playing devils advocate here, but all of us scrutinize changes in what we know. It may be a much better mouse trap but sometimes simple is better. Bottom line, this technology seems to be new and not even listed on Rules website, and a search, which isn't shown until your on an item screen, links you to the King website where this pump is located. If your running this pump Ken, can you show some pics of where you installed it and how you get to it? Again, this may be a better pump for some, but then again, I wouldn't put 2 pumps in my boat either, and I am a total fan of redundancy. I would like to hear more about this pump and what the ups and downs of it are, and user feedback. It may indeed skin the cat in a better way, let's find out!

I mounted it in the stock location. I'm not sure if it really required 2.75 inches of water, I run a hose in there regularly to test it (even though it has a test button on it.) and it doesn't seem to be an excessive amount of water before it kicks on. I'll try and remember to take a measurement and a couple pics next time. I bought the pump about 4 years ago so they have been around for quite a while. I actually bought 2, one I was going to mount higher with an alarm but haven't gotten around to it so I just keep it onboard as a spare.