I bought cheap knockoff clean out port repair kits!

[Julian]

I decided to try out some Chinese knock off clean out port repair kits for $18.99 each on Amazon. OEM ones are usually around $80. I figured I could send them back if they didn't work.

Manhole Cover Repair Clean Out... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3R74H4Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought these because the price was so low I had to see if there was anything good about them. The OEM ones are $79.95 vs $18.99 for these.

I was a little worried when the boxes arrived because the rubber skirts were jammed in there and folded over. I took them out and let them reshape back to their normal shape.

When I went to install them, the skirt fit but the plastic lower part did not line up exactly with the OEM upper plug. I might have been able to force it, but I've always wondered why they give you the new lower halfs (it is my assumption it's because many people leave them in so long that they have to drill out the lower halves!).

So the skirts fit fine. I need to test them more on the water, but so far so good.

So if you only need the skirts, this seems like a way to save $60 per plug. I will update as time goes on.

 

[drewkaree]

I decided to try out some Chinese knock off clean out port repair kits for $18.99 each on Amazon. OEM ones are usually around $80. I figured I could send them back if they didn't work.

Manhole Cover Repair Clean Out... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3R74H4Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought these because the price was so low I had to see if there was anything good about them. The OEM ones are $79.95 vs $18.99 for these.

I was a little worried when the boxes arrived because the rubber skirts were jammed in there and folded over. I took them out and let them reshape back to their normal shape.

When I went to install them, the skirt fit but the plastic lower part did not line up exactly with the OEM upper plug. I might have been able to force it, but I've always wondered why they give you the new lower halfs (it is my assumption it's because many people leave them in so long that they have to drill out the lower halves!).

So the skirts fit fine. I need to test them more on the water, but so far so good.

So if you only need the skirts, this seems like a way to save $60 per plug. I will update as time goes on.

I wonder if they throw the plastic lower sections in in case there's any damage from gravel or rocks?

 

[Julian]

I wonder if they throw the plastic lower sections in in case there's any damage from gravel or rocks?

I honestly think its because many dealers just drill out the lower portions when they are stuck vs trying to pry them out.

 

[drewkaree]

I honestly think its because many dealers just drill out the lower portions when they are stuck vs trying to pry them out.

With the pics and threads that have been popping up with these new plugs and how folks are managing to get them stuck, I think you may have a good theory there.

 

[sastocky]

I decided to try out some Chinese knock off clean out port repair kits for $18.99 each on Amazon. OEM ones are usually around $80. I figured I could send them back if they didn't work.

Manhole Cover Repair Clean Out... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3R74H4Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought these because the price was so low I had to see if there was anything good about them. The OEM ones are $79.95 vs $18.99 for these.

I was a little worried when the boxes arrived because the rubber skirts were jammed in there and folded over. I took them out and let them reshape back to their normal shape.

When I went to install them, the skirt fit but the plastic lower part did not line up exactly with the OEM upper plug. I might have been able to force it, but I've always wondered why they give you the new lower halfs (it is my assumption it's because many people leave them in so long that they have to drill out the lower halves!).

So the skirts fit fine. I need to test them more on the water, but so far so good.

So if you only need the skirts, this seems like a way to save $60 per plug. I will update as time goes on.

@Julian , how are these working for you? I am getting significant water past my plugs. I hate to buy rebuild kits so soon. Boat is only 3 years old.

 

[sastocky]

I am tempted to use Cobra’s Bees Wax sealing method. I used Plumber’s waterproof grease and it did nothing.

 

[Julian]

@Julian , how are these working for you? I am getting significant water past my plugs. I hate to buy rebuild kits so soon. Boat is only 3 years old.

These knock off skirts have worked fine.

 

[drewkaree]

@Julian , how are these working for you? I am getting significant water past my plugs. I hate to buy rebuild kits so soon. Boat is only 3 years old.

The rebuild kits linked here are not listed to fit your boat. I've already purchased these to see if the ring would fit, to save the money, and they do not fit the 2019, and I'm guessing your year. I've already sent them back, they're bigger, and can't be held in place

I am tempted to use Cobra’s Bees Wax sealing method. I used Plumber’s waterproof grease and it did nothing.

If you apply it just on the rubber seal, I would say that would be the way to go. To pack it into the metal ring that the plug screws into will likely result in the same thing for you as it did for myself and one of their person that I know of for certain. Crap EVERYWHERE, and a pain in the butt to clean, and it will take multiple times before you get it all out

If you are just applying it on the rubber ring, and just a thin layer, it will last longer than the pool lube, but not much longer, and still not likely stop any water from coming past the seals. You also haven't mentioned if you have water coming up through the drain, which everyone seems to now assume is a solved issue, in spite of evidence to the contrary

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

The rebuild kits linked here are not listed to fit your boat. I've already purchased these to see if the ring would fit, to save the money, and they do not fit the 2019, and I'm guessing your year. I've already sent them back, they're bigger, and can't be held in place




If you apply it just on the rubber seal, I would say that would be the way to go. To pack it into the metal ring that the plug screws into will likely result in the same thing for you as it did for myself and one of their person that I know of for certain. Crap EVERYWHERE, and a pain in the butt to clean, and it will take multiple times before you get it all out

If you are just applying it on the rubber ring, and just a thin layer, it will last longer than the pool lube, but not much longer, and still not likely stop any water from coming past the seals. You also haven't mentioned if you have water coming up through the drain, which everyone seems to now assume is a solved issue, in spite of evidence to the contrary

I saw this in my photos today and when I read about the clean out tray drain just now I thought I’d throw this up there. These are available from T-H marine, it’s an line scupper valve with 3/4” barbed fittings, this would be a good valve to put inline from your clean out tray drain. These will flow way more water than the 3/4” brass inline check valve that has a ball inside of it that I originally purchased.



As far as putting wax (toilet wax ring) on the clean out plugs, the first time I used it I packed the metal sealing ring at the bottom of the well and on the rubber seal. I had zero water on top of the plugs at the end of the day, but I also ended up with a huge freaking mess. Seems to me that when my boat was new I had to really push down on the plug to get it to turn, (and I didn’t have water in there) now not so much, even with new seals installed it doesn’t have the same feel. Did material get rubbed off with usage? I wonder if adding a little material on the metal part of the plug in the right place to apply more downward pressure on the seal would be the answer?

 

[sastocky]

The rebuild kits linked here are not listed to fit your boat. I've already purchased these to see if the ring would fit, to save the money, and they do not fit the 2019, and I'm guessing your year. I've already sent them back, they're bigger, and can't be held in place

Thanks for the heads up. I was assuming they were out there for all models.

If you apply it just on the rubber seal, I would say that would be the way to go. To pack it into the metal ring that the plug screws into will likely result in the same thing for you as it did for myself and one of their person that I know of for certain. Crap EVERYWHERE, and a pain in the butt to clean, and it will take multiple times before you get it all out

If you are just applying it on the rubber ring, and just a thin layer, it will last longer than the pool lube, but not much longer, and still not likely stop any water from coming past the seals. You also haven't mentioned if you have water coming up through the drain, which everyone seems to now assume is a solved issue, in spite of evidence to the contrary

I was curious and thinking about starting a thread to ask if people were packing the metal area with a small bead of bees/toilet wax or just rubbing on the seal. I was afraid it would be everywhere and make a mess.

I did install the Watkins Replacement Water Check Valve for Hot Springs Spa, 3/4" and it seems like it should work just fine, BUT, I plan to take a GoPro out on the next trip to see if I am getting significant water past the check valve.

I truely do not know if it is the plugs or the drain backflowing. I guess I need to use the GoPro before blaming the plugs.

 

[sastocky]

I saw this in my photos today and when I read about the clean out tray drain just now I thought I’d throw this up there. These are available from T-H marine, it’s an line scupper valve with 3/4” barbed fittings, this would be a good valve to put inline from your clean out tray drain. These will flow way more water than the 3/4” brass inline check valve that has a ball inside of it that I originally purchased.

View attachment 224939

As far as putting wax (toilet wax ring) on the clean out plugs, the first time I used it I packed the metal sealing ring at the bottom of the well and on the rubber seal. I had zero water on top of the plugs at the end of the day, but I also ended up with a huge freaking mess. Seems to me that when my boat was new I had to really push down on the plug to get it to turn, (and I didn’t have water in there) now not so much, even with new seals installed it doesn’t have the same feel. Did material get rubbed off with usage? I wonder if adding a little material on the metal part of the plug in the right place to apply more downward pressure on the seal would be the answer?

@FSH 210 Sport I'll give one of these valves a shot if I am still getting backflow with the Watkins Replacement Water Check Valve for Hot Springs Spa, 3/4" that I currently installed.

I'll go easy on the wax if I choose to use it.

 

[sastocky]

Here is a photo of the Check Valve in place.

 

[drewkaree]

I truely do not know if it is the plugs or the drain backflowing. I guess I need to use the GoPro before blaming the plugs.

Take a pic of the overall cleanout tray area on your boat and post it up. It'll help you when referencing things, and help others point to possible issues they see as well.

Do you have a riser under the inspection hatch on your cleanout tray? If not, that hatch cover can leak or allow water past it in past models, yours may be the same.

Do you have your cleanout tray edge sealed up? If not, that can allow water past it, as you may have missing or badly applied sealant to the underside of the tray.

Stick a cork in the cleanout tray drain the next time you go out. That will show you if you're still getting water in through that area, as you'll have a noticeable difference in the amount of water if that's the case (and the other things mentioned above are completed)

Does the check valve work in your cleanout tray drain? If it's suspect, use the cork to help verify (or your GoPro). Mine either has water in the sealing ball, or it's simply not working as I envisioned it, and it needs to be replaced. The one @FSH 210 Sport showed above looks to be a better solution.

I can't tell from your pic above, what's feeding the check valve that leads to that tee? The tee is also going to restrict flow no matter what direction things are going, just like it does in the typical way a 2-bowl kitchen sink is plumbed. A wye (Y) fitting will give better flow or at least not contribute as much to the bottleneck, but as mentioned, I don't know if that's possible or feasible with what's being done in that pic.

 

[sastocky]

See overall cleanout tray area and custom 3/4" riser. Riser is sealed inside and out with 3M5200. Cleanout tray was completely removed, bilge cleaned, clamps tightened, cleanout tube hoses siliconed, and replaced cleanout tray while sealing with 100% silicone.

I am unsure of the check valve. I have not yet corked the drain plug or used a GoPro. That was the next step.

The two feeds to the check valve are from the two drains in the cleanout tray that both lead to the tee, The bullhead side of the tee then leads to the check valve, then thru the hull. I get the plumbing reference as I am a licensed plumber.

 

[drewkaree]

See overall cleanout tray area and custom 3/4" riser. Riser is sealed inside and out with 3M5200. Cleanout tray was completely removed, bilge cleaned, clamps tightened, cleanout tube hoses siliconed, and replaced cleanout tray while sealing with 100% silicone.

I am unsure of the check valve. I have not yet corked the drain plug or used a GoPro. That was the next step.

The two feeds to the check valve are from the two drains in the cleanout tray that both lead to the tee, The bullhead side of the tee then leads to the check valve, then thru the hull. I get the plumbing reference as I am a licensed plumber.

That wide-angle pic is awesome, and exactly why pics are SOOOOO useful on this forum for folks who're trying to get help, for this reason: Your cleanout tray is WILDLY different from mine, even though all the concepts are the same. Your TWO drains on that deck are a new addition that many won't likely be aware of, and the channels they molded in there, leading to each drain, are a new addition as well. That's great that you're a plumber and understood what I was referring to with the wye fittings, sometimes folks can be talking over someone's head (and experiences!) without realizing it, and I know sometimes I've been guilty of that!

Your squared off cleanout tray is also a new design, and a great improvement, IMO, over trying to make all the odd shapes. If they ever decide to "fix" this area again, without removing those drains, they should look into setting the cleanout tray UNDER the fiberglass, as the rubber cleanout tray tubes will hold it up from the bottom, and the screws will hold it from the top and make it easier for the water to empty out through the drains, leaving the cleanout tubes as the only place water would build up and be retained.

The GoPro will give you empirical evidence, but the cork is an easy test for anyone following this thread that may not have access to a GoPro. If all I ever had at the end of the day was a full cleanout tube, I'd consider that a win.

In speaking with @FSH 210 Sport I am considering some way to add material to the "ears" of the cleanout plug, to snug up the fit - either add some JB Weld and file it down, or metal shim stock. This would test his theory that the plugs allow water due to a less-than-snug fit as those ears wear down.

All of this could be considered straining at gnats for some, and for others like myself, it's still not at the point where I'm not gonna investigate or look into where I might be missing - still.

Good luck, and let us know - video from that GoPro would show the new boat owners, and it'd also RE-verify the problem still exists.

 

[sastocky]

The GoPro will give you empirical evidence, but the cork is an easy test for anyone following this thread that may not have access to a GoPro. If all I ever had at the end of the day was a full cleanout tube, I'd consider that a win.

My problem is I continue to have 8-12 ish gallons (500 gph pump running 1-1.5minutes) of water coming into the hull when crushing at 25 mph and then stop, occasionally while underway. I’m not nervous of the situation. I’m working through it, improving the boat, sealing it up, adding safety features(alarm & 2nd pump), and staring at a few gnats myself. I enjoy it.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

My problem is I continue to have 8-12 ish gallons (500 gph pump running 1-1.5minutes) of water coming into the hull when crushing at 25 mph and then stop, occasionally while underway. I’m not nervous of the situation. I’m working through it, improving the boat, sealing it up, adding safety features(alarm & 2nd pump), and staring at a few gnats myself. I enjoy it.

That amount of water is stunning to say the least. I’m assuming this happens multiple times during the day??

How many thru hull fittings are there on your boat? Ballast system?

 

[sastocky]

That amount of water is stunning to say the least. I’m assuming this happens multiple times during the day??

How many thru hull fittings are there on your boat? Ballast system?

Yes. Every time we cruise and then stop. Especially for an extended amount of time. Will occasionally kick on while cruising, but not often, or at least that I notice.

Anchor locker sealed and looked sealed from the factory.

No ballast tanks; only scupper, cleanout drain, underwater lights, depth finder, and jet systems. No leaking while in water still. Might be rub rail as that is at the water edge while cruising, especially while tubing which seems to take on more water than cruising alone.

 

[drewkaree]

Yes. Every time we cruise and then stop. Especially for an extended amount of time. Will occasionally kick on while cruising, but not often, or at least that I notice.

Anchor locker sealed and looked sealed from the factory.

No ballast tanks; only scupper, cleanout drain, underwater lights, depth finder, and jet systems. No leaking while in water still. Might be rub rail as that is at the water edge while cruising, especially while tubing which seems to take on more water than cruising alone.

The rub rail was far easier to remove for inspection than I thought, when I took a look at that. The bad part is that there may be no sealant under it, which may require more disassembly that I am willing to put off until the last bit of water starts to cause my eye to twitch

There were a few of the fittings around my pump area that weren't sealed well, but after replacing those with stainless and sealing better, that helped a bit. Your amount of water while underway is concerning, but I don't think even if they were bad, that the cleanout plugs would allow that quantity past, without a noticeable loss of performance

For reference, I used a tapered rubber plug in my cleanout drain, being a plumber, you should have something to fit.

What did you use to make your riser for the inspection hatch?

 

[sastocky]

What did you use to make your riser for the inspection hatch?

I used 3/4” UHMW-PE. I have a few sheets laying around.