cabbie
Jet Boat Addict
- Messages
- 25
- Reaction score
- 26
- Points
- 87
- Location
- Elwood, NY
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2015
- Boat Model
- SX192
- Boat Length
- 19
Hello members,
I desperately needed a charting solution and chose the Dragonfly. The 5M is a GPS/Chartplotter only: My SX192 is equipped with a depth sounder and I don't require a sonar. I chose Raymarine because of Navionics chart compatibility because they update their charts more frequently - very important in my location because of shoaling inlets and breaches caused by storms.
The install was a piece of cake because I found spade lug adaptors at my local marine supply. These allowed a simple yet removable connection to the boats electrical system.
Shut off the battery switch before proceeding.
I first removed the starboard bow seat cushion and then reached up to remove the two wing nut securing the seat back to the bulkhead.
I then loosened the nuts securing the eyebrow panel sufficiently to pass the GPS power cable under the gauge eyebrow, over the top of the boat's tachometer. I secured the cable with a couple of wire ties the existing harness to keep everything clear of the steering gear.
Note: the GPS power cable is routed to the starboard switch panel and must be kept clear of the steering mechanism.
Remove the Philips head screws securing the starboard switch panel. Mock up the GPS mount and display and position the unit in the desired location. Allow for access to the rear of the GPS display so you can reach the power connection. Mark the screw hole locations with a correction pen. Move the assembly aside and drill 1/8 inch pilot holes followed by a 1/4 inch bolt holes. Do this with the switch panel removed to be sure of not catching any wiring with the bits. I used 5200 to seal the bolts and the base of the GPS mount to the dash. The following photo shows the bolt hole location marks to the right of the GPS.
I crimped red spade adaptor lugs to each of the three conductors of the GPS supplied power cable. In my case the red conductor is positive, black is negative, and the gray wire is a shield to be connected to a direct wire to the battery negative connection. I removed the blue wire from the courtesy light switch and attached the black wire of the power cable in it's place, reconnect the blue wire to the exposed spade of the adaptor lug. Remove the red jumper wire from the courtesy light switch and attach the red wire of the power cable in it's place, reconnect the red jumper wire to the exposed spade of the adaptor lug. The last connection was made to the navigation light switch. Remove the black wire from the navigation light switch and attach the gray shield wire in it's place, reconnect the black wire to the exposed spade of the adaptor lug. This completes the wiring.
Turn on the battery switch and test your installation successfully. Reinstall the switch panel carefully, I'm told that the plastic switch panel is fragile and expensive so don't over tighten the screws. Make sure the GPS power lead follows the panel gap formed by the dash and the side panel and tighten the gauge brow carefully, the same warning about fastener tightness applies. Reinstall the seat cushions to complete the job.
Hopefully these instructions are not too tedious and have encouraged others to tack this simple job.
Thanks for this great forum,
Cabbie
I desperately needed a charting solution and chose the Dragonfly. The 5M is a GPS/Chartplotter only: My SX192 is equipped with a depth sounder and I don't require a sonar. I chose Raymarine because of Navionics chart compatibility because they update their charts more frequently - very important in my location because of shoaling inlets and breaches caused by storms.
The install was a piece of cake because I found spade lug adaptors at my local marine supply. These allowed a simple yet removable connection to the boats electrical system.
Shut off the battery switch before proceeding.
I first removed the starboard bow seat cushion and then reached up to remove the two wing nut securing the seat back to the bulkhead.
I then loosened the nuts securing the eyebrow panel sufficiently to pass the GPS power cable under the gauge eyebrow, over the top of the boat's tachometer. I secured the cable with a couple of wire ties the existing harness to keep everything clear of the steering gear.
Note: the GPS power cable is routed to the starboard switch panel and must be kept clear of the steering mechanism.
Remove the Philips head screws securing the starboard switch panel. Mock up the GPS mount and display and position the unit in the desired location. Allow for access to the rear of the GPS display so you can reach the power connection. Mark the screw hole locations with a correction pen. Move the assembly aside and drill 1/8 inch pilot holes followed by a 1/4 inch bolt holes. Do this with the switch panel removed to be sure of not catching any wiring with the bits. I used 5200 to seal the bolts and the base of the GPS mount to the dash. The following photo shows the bolt hole location marks to the right of the GPS.
I crimped red spade adaptor lugs to each of the three conductors of the GPS supplied power cable. In my case the red conductor is positive, black is negative, and the gray wire is a shield to be connected to a direct wire to the battery negative connection. I removed the blue wire from the courtesy light switch and attached the black wire of the power cable in it's place, reconnect the blue wire to the exposed spade of the adaptor lug. Remove the red jumper wire from the courtesy light switch and attach the red wire of the power cable in it's place, reconnect the red jumper wire to the exposed spade of the adaptor lug. The last connection was made to the navigation light switch. Remove the black wire from the navigation light switch and attach the gray shield wire in it's place, reconnect the black wire to the exposed spade of the adaptor lug. This completes the wiring.
Turn on the battery switch and test your installation successfully. Reinstall the switch panel carefully, I'm told that the plastic switch panel is fragile and expensive so don't over tighten the screws. Make sure the GPS power lead follows the panel gap formed by the dash and the side panel and tighten the gauge brow carefully, the same warning about fastener tightness applies. Reinstall the seat cushions to complete the job.
Hopefully these instructions are not too tedious and have encouraged others to tack this simple job.
Thanks for this great forum,
Cabbie
