4x15mph
Jetboaters Admiral
- Messages
- 1,845
- Reaction score
- 1,077
- Points
- 282
- Location
- Downingtown, PA
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2018
- Boat Model
- AR
- Boat Length
- 21
I opened up my bilge area to examine the different clamps, hoses, etc. I bought this boat used so I wanted to know more about what was under this cover. I did not intend to replace my bilge pump originally but after seeing it and knowing that it was not brand new, I thought this was a good opportunity. With Amazon prime, I ordered it Friday night and it was delivered to my house on a Sunday. I never even knew that there were deliveries on a Sunday.
Here are some pictures but basically the steps were:
1) Take out the blow out plugs
2a) Remove the screws holding in the blow out plug, access tray.
2b) Remove the 2, tray safety switches by removing the top nuts only (it helps if you label them before removing, ie. mark one with white-out). These will then fall through the tray.
3) I was then able to lift up the tray enough to remove the single hose that was attached to the tray by removing the clamp. This hose is the drain for the tray and it feeds to the hull next to the starboard jet pump. Looks like the scupper outlet
4) Lift out the tray. I didn't have any hose clamps holding my tray to the blow out plug, rubber surround tubes. I think I saw these in a manual but I know that my plugs were redone originally. When it was put back together they didn't use clamps and I didn't see any reason for them either based on how this goes together and with the drainage the way that it is set up.
5) Remove the old bilge. My bilge was a Rule brand 500 gph pump that was replaced at one point based on the way the connections were made (twist caps and silicone sealer in the caps). The rule pump clips into a base and the clips on my pump were broken so the previous owner devised a metal strap to hold it in place. You can buy replacement bases for these pumps ($9.00) but I figured I would just get a whole new pump while I was at it. I ordered the 800 gph but after reading that it required more amperage and larger circuit breaker, I went back to "model". Keep it simple
6) I connected the new pump and used the twist caps and silicone to make a marine grade connection. I like this idea and I did the same for outdoor, low voltage lighting
7) Inspect all hose clamps. My boat had a lot of spring-like clamps similar to my oil line fasteners and these were all in great shape. The other hose clamps on the large exhaust fittings were also in great shape but I tested them all to make sure they were tight. I also sprayed the clamps with yamaha silicone spray.
8) Test the pump by installing the rear hull drain plug and filling up the bilge area around the pump. Turn on the bilge and you should see it cycle on, drain the water, and cycle off when done.
9) Clean up the tray and surrounding areas with the magic eraser. Wow, like new!
10) wet vac out the entire bilge area
Here are some random pictures for reference so that you can see the bilge area. It should not surprise you that it is dark, wet, and a dumping ground since anything that washes through the ski locker ends up in this compartment. Washers, nuts, rubber things, etc.
Here are some pictures but basically the steps were:
1) Take out the blow out plugs
2a) Remove the screws holding in the blow out plug, access tray.
2b) Remove the 2, tray safety switches by removing the top nuts only (it helps if you label them before removing, ie. mark one with white-out). These will then fall through the tray.
3) I was then able to lift up the tray enough to remove the single hose that was attached to the tray by removing the clamp. This hose is the drain for the tray and it feeds to the hull next to the starboard jet pump. Looks like the scupper outlet
4) Lift out the tray. I didn't have any hose clamps holding my tray to the blow out plug, rubber surround tubes. I think I saw these in a manual but I know that my plugs were redone originally. When it was put back together they didn't use clamps and I didn't see any reason for them either based on how this goes together and with the drainage the way that it is set up.
5) Remove the old bilge. My bilge was a Rule brand 500 gph pump that was replaced at one point based on the way the connections were made (twist caps and silicone sealer in the caps). The rule pump clips into a base and the clips on my pump were broken so the previous owner devised a metal strap to hold it in place. You can buy replacement bases for these pumps ($9.00) but I figured I would just get a whole new pump while I was at it. I ordered the 800 gph but after reading that it required more amperage and larger circuit breaker, I went back to "model". Keep it simple
6) I connected the new pump and used the twist caps and silicone to make a marine grade connection. I like this idea and I did the same for outdoor, low voltage lighting
7) Inspect all hose clamps. My boat had a lot of spring-like clamps similar to my oil line fasteners and these were all in great shape. The other hose clamps on the large exhaust fittings were also in great shape but I tested them all to make sure they were tight. I also sprayed the clamps with yamaha silicone spray.
8) Test the pump by installing the rear hull drain plug and filling up the bilge area around the pump. Turn on the bilge and you should see it cycle on, drain the water, and cycle off when done.
9) Clean up the tray and surrounding areas with the magic eraser. Wow, like new!
10) wet vac out the entire bilge area
Here are some random pictures for reference so that you can see the bilge area. It should not surprise you that it is dark, wet, and a dumping ground since anything that washes through the ski locker ends up in this compartment. Washers, nuts, rubber things, etc.
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