Installing Amplifer - Adding in Seperate Battery Switch - Will This One Work?

[ralphsmithiii]

Wanted to find out if I'm heading in the right direction or if I'm going to set my boat on fire. I'm in the process of installing a JL Audio setup. I was considering trying to figure out how to get the house battery switch off the mounted panel and tying in the power for the JL M800 to it or running the stereo system off its own dedicated battery switch in case I'd ever need/want cut power just to it. I do have JL Audio's Marine grade fuse that'll go inline either way but want I want to know is if this battery switch will accomplish what I'm looking for: a dedicated switch identical to the factory house/start swithces: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D5PV84D/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ask because I ran to West Marine today and they suggested I use this switch: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue...uit-plus-battery-switch--8646309?recordNum=45

While I'm not opposed to using it, it's much larger than my other factory switches and I think overkill for what I'm trying. The first one I listed appears to match the factory switches (from what I can tell) and thus, I'd like to go that route if it'll work.

I just want to make sure I'm not missing something with these battery switches such as not being able to support "x" amount of voltage/amperage for a single amp (JL M800) setup.

 

[Seadeals]

Both will work with no issues. The BEP (Amazon) switch handles 275A continuous where the Blue Seas (from west marine) is 300A. Both should be well in excess of any sound system you intend.

 

[ralphsmithiii]

Thanks for the quick reply @Seadeals !

 

[Seadeals]

Glad to help. I like keeping everything the same too.

 

[Bluewater272]

I just went with an 80A circuit breaker feeding my amp supply line. Meets my fusing needs, and enables easy on/off for the amps (and whenever I need to do work at the helm distribution panel).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B8BX3P2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Mainah]

I just went with an 80A circuit breaker feeding my amp supply line. Meets my fusing needs, and enables easy on/off for the amps (and whenever I need to do work at the helm distribution panel).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B8BX3P2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some of these circuit breakers are junk. I bought the no names rated for 150 amps for my inverter and wired up with 2 feet 0 awg runs. The darn thing kept popping with a load of 120 amps and only had 1/4 inch studs. The ones from busman are good stuff though.

 

[Bluewater272]

Some of these circuit breakers are junk. I bought the no names rated for 150 amps for my inverter and wired up with 2 feet 0 awg runs. The darn thing kept popping with a load of 120 amps and only had 1/4 inch studs. The ones from busman are good stuff though.

Good to know. It was well reviewed so went with it, if I have any issues I'll swap it out for a Busman.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

I went with a basic 4 position switch. It has Both, Bat 1, Bat 2, and Off. No issues and was like $20 on amazon.

 

[ralphsmithiii]

Thanks for all of the feedback guys! I ended up using the factory house switch for the time being. I still have both switches listed above but I'll give this a run for a bit and see if I want to swap it.