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Intermediate Bearing Issue

Nous Defions

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
88
Reaction score
43
Points
87
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2010
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
24
Interm bearing.jpg
It only drips at times and at 30 MPH it sprays the inside of the engine compartment. It appears the seal on the bearing is leaking. Is this a DIY job or am I in for a large bill. Any pointers would help. Apparently, I have not noticed before, but looking at the hose clamps in the area , they appear to be corroded. How long can I run it this way and the long term effect of not addressing? Anyone?
 
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Is it dripping / spraying because it's been overfilled? Or is this a constant thing? I believe the engine has to come out to replace, but that's a DIY for some people and not for others.
 
Can't answer on why it's doing what it's doing. Only the Starboard Engine. Not leaking at idle, dripping at wake mode speed and spraying at 30 MPH. Can the shaft be pulled from the rear and access to the bearing. Is the bearing replaceable or is it a complete unit? Cannot find the answer I need searching. Hoping a "been there done that" guy comes along.
 
@Nous Defions Have you ever added any grease? If not, remove grease hose, which probably has dried grease in it. Pump out old grease, reattach and pump in a little new grease. Be careful! Over greasing can pop the seal. A couple of shots may be all that is necessary.
 
You need to pull the pump and move the engine forward to get those out if it is spraying water it is done I posted about not greasing them but injecting gear lube in there instead along with the grease that is already inside so you don't damage the rubber and seals.
 
Thanks Jeff and Wreks, Read through all those posts, then some. I was hoping to get a clearer understanding all in one spot. Like, "Just slide the engine up two inches, that gives you the space you need and get the replacement part at Joe's Boat shop. Few hours work tops."
What I'm reading is "The engine has to be taken out, the jet has to be removed and that gives you the room to work." I don't think I have the ability, certainly not the engine lift, to get all the tolerances correct after reassembly.

Wreks I'm up in Vero, do you know a trusted shop to get it done? I have no one I know up here.
 
It would be easy to remove grease hose and try putting in a little new grease. I could help you with that.
 
ok I do not know why you would need to pull the engine out I just push the engine forward a few inches, unless you replace a motor mount you usually do not need to do any adjusting I unbolt the top single motor mount bolt and the air box hoes and exhaust hoses to move the engine forward once the pump is out the intermediate bearing has room to clear and be changed , you can usually do it by yourself I do it and I'm old and feeble I use my hydraulic wheelchair lift to be able to get to everything and my cane to pry the engine forward
 
You need to pull the pump and move the engine forward to get those out if it is spraying water it is done I posted about not greasing them but injecting gear lube in there instead along with the grease that is already inside so you don't damage the rubber and seals.
Cobra Jet Steering: can you share the link to your recommendations, please? Thanks a lot
 
Unfortunately if it has water leaking in from outside the intermediate bearing then it is toast I can show you some that were leaking and it isn't pretty. the rubber mount is supposed to be bonded to the outer housing but forcing grease in the fitting separates the rubber and then it continues to get worse , once water gets in the bearings they are no good , look at the middle picture you will see the grease fitting location and a hole in the rubber that lines up with that fitting location, "TOOTHPICKS' So when the part is new the grease is supposed to go through the small hole to the bearing , however it can start to separate the rubber and ruin the part eventually
 

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It could be. that would be easiest, It's part made by SBT, which is a company in Florida that is famous for their parts and engine rebuilds (Or infamous).... but there is an cheaper option that keeps the OEM seal and bearing, but requires a little more leg work:

You could also remove the assembly, buy the bearings and seals and have someone local in any mechanic shop with a hydraulic press switch the bearings and seals. The parts will be less than $80 I think, but the shop time may kill you if it's not a friend with a hydraulic press. I bet you could replace them with a big hammer and a wood block.

I have a hydraulic press in my garage, I'd be happy to re-assemble for you but the shipping will kill you.
 
Beachbummer, Thanks. I don't mind spending money if I know it's well spent. Taking my boat to a shop, well I'd rather go back to a combat zone, less aggravation.
 
Can someone post the pages in the shop manual that covers the swap?
 
Is there a different part no. Between starboard and port engines?
 
@Nous Defions Is there any bearing noise coming from affected area? If not and if you have not disassembled anything yet, I encourage you to try adding some water resistant grease. That is your best chance of not incurring some heavy expense. Give it a shot, even if it a long one!
 
I purchase my complete bearing assembly at S B T in Clearwater fl same place I buy my nylon pump sections when I replace the original liner sections
 
@Nous Defions Is there any bearing noise coming from affected area? If not and if you have not disassembled anything yet, I encourage you to try adding some water resistant grease. That is your best chance of not incurring some heavy expense. Give it a shot, even if it a long one!
Thinking I should just jam as much grease in and see if that works? I think with the force the water is coming out of the bearing at speed, the grease won't stand a chance.
 
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