Geoff Cooper
Jetboaters Admiral
- Messages
- 1,124
- Reaction score
- 1,256
- Points
- 262
- Location
- Thailand
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2006
- Boat Model
- AR
- Boat Length
- 23
I have for sometime noticed the lock on the rear tray a little loose so thought i would adjust it to take the play out as the engine kill switches are under there and the lock needs to be adjusted so they work correctly, After i removed the lock i found that the grub screw that locked the locking bar onto the shaft was seized so it could not be adjusted and so turned out to be more of a job than i originally estimated, Here's what i did.
Remove plastic retaining nut and remove lock
I needed the use of a pillar drill as i don't posses one so down to my local engineer to use his, Just drilling the grub screw out, Re tapped it 10 mil and used stainless locking screw and lock nut.
As you can see health and safety are a major concern.
I made a small spacer washer from rubber and greased it just to take up the play
That's the washer i cut to fit
That's the full mechanism stripped ready for the rebuild
Ok now rebuilt refitted and adjusted, You can see the new 10 mil stainless locking bolt and nut and i also changed the large nut at the bottom of the shaft also for stainless.
Job done about 1 hours work and ready to go, Not a big job but one that needed doing as it was starting to get loose and with that grub screw seized there was no way of making any adjustments and as the kill switches are under there it needs to be right, All nice and tight and easy to maintain and adjust now with no chance of seizing. Maybe worth checking yours as it's a job you can do in the closed season, Don't forget to grease the mechanism as you rebuild it, I cant believe they used a standard steel grub screw into cast alloy that's just asking for trouble, In mass production to use stainless would have cost just cents more and take it out to 10 mil end of any problems.
Remove plastic retaining nut and remove lock
I needed the use of a pillar drill as i don't posses one so down to my local engineer to use his, Just drilling the grub screw out, Re tapped it 10 mil and used stainless locking screw and lock nut.
As you can see health and safety are a major concern.
I made a small spacer washer from rubber and greased it just to take up the play
That's the washer i cut to fit That's the full mechanism stripped ready for the rebuild
Ok now rebuilt refitted and adjusted, You can see the new 10 mil stainless locking bolt and nut and i also changed the large nut at the bottom of the shaft also for stainless.
Job done about 1 hours work and ready to go, Not a big job but one that needed doing as it was starting to get loose and with that grub screw seized there was no way of making any adjustments and as the kill switches are under there it needs to be right, All nice and tight and easy to maintain and adjust now with no chance of seizing. Maybe worth checking yours as it's a job you can do in the closed season, Don't forget to grease the mechanism as you rebuild it, I cant believe they used a standard steel grub screw into cast alloy that's just asking for trouble, In mass production to use stainless would have cost just cents more and take it out to 10 mil end of any problems.
