Maintenance - Impeller Ducts and Throttle Bodies

[Stevenpigsooie]

I've been doing my own oil and filter change, spark plug change, and other maintenance myself for the past 3 seasons. However, I've never done the "impeller duct check and lubricate" or "lubricate throttle valves." Are you guys doing this annually? What are you using to lubricate the throttle valves? The service manual says to use a "rust inhibitor." Would the yamalube silicone spray or CRC 656 be okay for the throttle valves?

 

[Stevenpigsooie]

Bump

 

[Scottintexas]

where did you get the items from? owners manual or svc manual?

Impeller duct check and lubricate- not sure what this is speaking to, is that simply looking up from the bottom into the "intake tunnel", not sure what there is to lubricate unless they mean removing the rear cap and lubricating the impeller bearings?

lubricate throttle valves - I wonder if they are talking about the inside of the valve, if you sprayed fogging oil in the breather or if they mean the linkage that works the valve on the outside ? I've never lubricated the outside linkage,

 

[Stevenpigsooie]

Maintenance schedule has both listed as 100 hours or 12 months. See pic.

 

[Stevenpigsooie]

And here’s the instructions from service manual.

 

[Beachbummer]

I'm planning to empty a can of seafoam intake cleaner probably weekend after next... I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[Stevenpigsooie]

@swatski I posted this question a while back concerning the impeller duct bearings and got minimal feedback from the forum. Considering that guy’s fsh190 and the issues he’s having I need to re-visit this maintenance item. Thoughts? Nobody ever mentions doing this as part of their annual diy maintenance.

 

[mwalker4]

The impeller duct bearing as described is the one under the pump cone under the thrust nozzle. So if you want to install a L13 nozzle, this would be your chance.

I also think that the rust inhibitor is fogging oil because that process described is the same as fogging the engine.

 

[Beachbummer]

I did spray SeaFoam intake cleaner into the intake and I doubt It made much of a difference. I do replace the pump lubrication yearly. What I did (Second year I do it, This is my 3rd season with my boat) was I pulled the pump from the boat and cleaned up all the lubrication, and then set it on a workbench table that allows the shaft to go through it, so the pump is with cone facing up. I filled the cavity with Mercury high end gear lube, rotate a few times and fill until full. Then I stuffed most of the cone with marine grease, and close up in that position. (Only position to close, or the oil will spill.)

When I pulled the cones the first time the grease looked sad and not covering all the bearings. When I did my check after this procedure the bearings were very well lubricated and everything looked well lubed.

I'm not saying to do it this way, just that I did it and it worked for me.
Amazon.com: Quicksilver 858064Q01 High Performance SAE 90 Gear Lube for Mercury Outboards and MerCruiser Sterndrives, 32 oz: Automotive

I like it because it says in the label that it can survive some water intrusion. Replacing it once per year seems reasonable. The pumps sound much better at idle.

 

[swatski]

I did spray SeaFoam intake cleaner into the intake and I doubt It made much of a difference. I do replace the pump lubrication yearly. What I did (Second year I do it, This is my 3rd season with my boat) was I pulled the pump from the boat and cleaned up all the lubrication, and then set it on a workbench table that allows the shaft to go through it, so the pump is with cone facing up. I filled the cavity with Mercury high end gear lube, rotate a few times and fill until full. Then I stuffed most of the cone with marine grease, and close up in that position. (Only position to close, or the oil will spill.)

When I pulled the cones the first time the grease looked sad and not covering all the bearings. When I did my check after this procedure the bearings were very well lubricated and everything looked well lubed.

I'm not saying to do it this way, just that I did it and it worked for me.
Amazon.com: Quicksilver 858064Q01 High Performance SAE 90 Gear Lube for Mercury Outboards and MerCruiser Sterndrives, 32 oz: Automotive

I like it because it says in the label that it can survive some water intrusion. Replacing it once per year seems reasonable. The pumps sound much better at idle.

Some people do a slurry - mix of gear lub and grease.

--

 

[swatski]

@swatski I posted this question a while back concerning the impeller duct bearings and got minimal feedback from the forum. Considering that guy’s fsh190 and the issues he’s having I need to re-visit this maintenance item. Thoughts? Nobody ever mentions doing this as part of their annual diy maintenance.

In my case it so happens I take the cones off almost every year.
After the FSH report I think it will be a Fall PM schedule item for sure. I'll probably swap the o-rings at the time, those are not expensive. I'm tempted to switch to slurry, but IDK.

--

 

[Beachbummer]

The Seadoo Pumps use gear oil only, and that works quite well. (The oil STINKS on removal though, I'll give you that)

 

[swatski]

@swatski I posted this question a while back concerning the impeller duct bearings and got minimal feedback from the forum. Considering that guy’s fsh190 and the issues he’s having I need to re-visit this maintenance item. Thoughts? Nobody ever mentions doing this as part of their annual diy maintenance.

Thinking about it tonight... I'd not necessarily be pulling the cones off anytime I have the impellers out. The impelelrs come out with the shaft and the stator segment (impeller "duct"). If the impellers spin freely and with no vibrations - there is nothing to worry about, at least for the time being.
Running in the water you will hear impeller vibrating before the bearings grenade. Those vibrations are not subtle. Most instances of impeller/pump vibration are from small debris and clear with application of thrust. If not - time to pull the pump, it's a small job, but I wouldn;t necessarily pull the cone (or L13) everytime I do that, unless the shaft does not turn smoothly.

Just my 0.02

--

 

[B0at1n]

I’m at my 100 hour service on my 2019 AR190. I just flipped through the 150 page manual and this is not mentioned anywhere with details. All I saw was lubeing the throttle cable, the pump exterior moving parts and the steering linkage. Anyone know if the design changed to where I don’t need to worry about this?

Also, how much grease goes in the bearing on top of the pump again?

 

[swatski]

I’m at my 100 hour service on my 2019 AR190. I just flipped through the 150 page manual and this is not mentioned anywhere with details. All I saw was lubeing the throttle cable, the pump exterior moving parts and the steering linkage. Anyone know if the design changed to where I don’t need to worry about this?

Also, how much grease goes in the bearing on top of the pump again?

Check this new thread, has most of the answers.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/do-not-buy-yamaha-fsh.23528/

--

 

[B0at1n]

Check this new thread, has most of the answers.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/do-not-buy-yamaha-fsh.23528/

--

That’s the thread that made me think about this.

The 19 manual doesn’t show or say anything about this though.

 

[swatski]

That’s the thread that made me think about this.

The 19 manual doesn’t show or say anything about this though.

Shop/service manual? or the owner manual?
The 2019 pumps are redesigned (beautifully I think) with the "sleeve" for the impeller, I'm sure it makes everything more quiet. The wear ring and stator is "fused" together as one piece, but the cone and the o-ring there is the same, so the potential for water intrusion is the same.



Is there something like this (5 and 6) in the 2019 shop manual?


--

 

[mwalker4]

Ignorance is bliss. Until I received my service manual and read these threads this week, I had no idea this was a annual periodic maintenance. One of the reasons I don't have a Stern drive is the amount of this type of maintenance. I'm thinking that I will visual inspect the assembled bearing and cone every other year. Then repack the bearing when I check and adjust the valves every other year. But I continue to follow this to see if something changes my mind. FYI, the service and owners manuals differ in a few areas to include lubrication of intermediate bearing at 10 hours.

 

[Beachbummer]

One thing to keep in mind is how often these are truly serviced and how often they fail.. I'm pretty confident mine had not been opened in 10 years, and the bearings were still good.

The purpose is to catch the early failure before the whole case self destructs.

If you use the grease, you can do this with the pump still on the boat, so it is still a relatively easy procedure, but potentially the most cumbersome of the yearly maintenance.

I actually enjoy wrenching on the boat, so this is entertainment for me. But all are not so lucky.

 

[Seadeals]

I pulled cones a couple years back and added back a slurry. I am scheduled to check cones this winter to see how they have been doing. Like @Beachbummer said, that can go for some time without any issue. I don’t think mine had ever been touched and only one showed signs of slight water intrusion. Think of it like your trailer hubs. If there is a developing problem, it is better to find it through routine checks in the garage rather than on the side of the road after damage is done.