Mini fridge and inverter issue

[Speedling]

What's up everyone?
I was going to try my mini fridge off a battery.
Fridge is an old chefmate rated at 100 watts.
I bought an inverter (bestek pure sine 300w) which has a peak rating of 600 or 750 watts(their literature stinks)
I tested it on my bosch power tool charger with is rated 140 watts. No problems at all (part of the reason for pure sine wave as we have seen issues on jobs with generators previously).
I am using a straight to the battery connector and it's nice and solid.
Fridge causes the red led on inverter and it shuts down. If the fridge doesn't need a cool cycle (like i had plugged into wall and then moved over to inverter) it's good until it needs to cycle again.
Is it really possible this inverter can't handle a 100 watt mini fridge when a 140 watt charger was no issue? Looking around for another device with clear ratings on it to test.
After charging my bosch battery and messing with the fridge for an hour the battery dropped 0.03 amps. Using my camper battery.
Any advice?
Don't think i can return the inverter as it's working correctly but the fridge is it's nemesis

 

[AZMark]

Maybe the fridge has a high load when it starts up.

Those inverters seem kind of finicky. I’ve had issues with an old lcd TV with a small inverter where it just won’t turn on most of the time. Once in a while it does manage to turn on and then it does fine. I’ve had same issue with the factory one on my vehicle and an air pump.

 

[Speedling]

Maybe the fridge has a high load when it starts up.

Those inverters seem kind of finicky. I’ve had issues with an old lcd TV with a small inverter where it just won’t turn on most of the time. Once in a while it does manage to turn on and then it does fine. I’ve had same issue with the factory one on my vehicle and an air pump.

A 100 watt fridge has over 300 watt startup? Broken fridge i guess

 

[TimW451]

Startup draw can be up to 6x more than running current. Look for an “LRA” # on the fridge motor. That is the current draw on startup. You are probably right at the limit, and if it is an old fridge maybe over drawling just enough. A new fridge or slightly larger inverter will likely resolve.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I was thinking lock rotor amperage/ watts / in rush for start up was 10 times the running amount.

@Speedling , take the lock rotor amps if you can find it and times it by 120 to get the watts.

 

[lazergeek]

Besides the startup draw, 100 watt draw is still alot for our boats (5 amps per hour) with the limited charging system and if your using just a regular start battery its not going to last as long as your hoping. We have this one that we sometimes use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L34Z6PZ Draw is only 45 watts and you dont need an inverter. My son used for over a year continiously in his van and running off his solar and battery only. I would still use decient size AGM battery with it however.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Besides the startup draw, 100 watt draw is still alot for our boats (5 amps per hour) with the limited charging system and if your using just a regular start battery its not going to last as long as your hoping. We have this one that we sometimes use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L34Z6PZ Draw is only 45 watts and you dont need an inverter. My son used for over a year continiously in his van and running off his solar and battery only. I would still use decient size AGM battery with it however.

That looks like a nice unit for a very reasonable price! Watched the video on amazons site and the next vid was for the BougeRV which looks similar and the tester does a good job of measuring consumption…