My trailer mods

[Ronnie]

A few months ago the owner of a pwc shop complimented me on my trailers and he sees a lot of them so I thought I'd share them here in a single thread. For context My goal is to make trailering the boat and waverunners as easy and safe as possible.

First, the ramp n clamp, for easy even solo recovery of the boat.


Second, Fulton F2 2 speed winch, no exposed gear teeth and also works great as step.

Third is th F2 trailer jack fully adjustable with a 1,600 lbs. capacity, brake wedge and handle retention clip. Honestly the most troublesome trailer jacks ive ever owned but they look good.

Fourth, can't forget about the verve guides, made of flexible pvc with lights and pads.

Safery chains, not cables, with a spring on each hook so I never worry about the hooks bouncing loose on the road

Almost forgot about the bolted bow stop ( not pictured ) .

Last but not least is the dual camera system, the cameras don't overheat and allow me to switch between the bumper/hitch as well as traffic behind the boat.




My ranking of first to worst is:
Veve guides, very helpful and inexpensive.
Bolted bow stop, cheap
Ramp n clamp but a boat buddy ii will work just as well for half the price.
Two speed winch, single speed is sufficient
Camera system, not really necessary but still nice.
F2 trailer jack

Questions?

 

[fireflymedic]

You forgot to mention but did have pic of jb tire cover , nice set up.

 

[captainhook]

I am assuming the slow speed is sufficient on the winch? I don’t think you’d want high speed all the tim as it probably has less power.

My EZ Loader trailer has a decent winch on it but I drool over the Fultons when I see them. I just haven’t been able to justify it as mine works perfectly fine, especially since I don’t power load and use it with success each time.

 

[Ronnie]

I have only moved it to the second gear to verify it works but I power load like a boss (in my head anyway, lol ) all the way into the ramp n clamp (previously boat buddy II) so my f2 winch does not do a lot of winching but instead functions to lock the front of the boat to the trailer and be a good step into and out of the bow while looking good doing it.
It is worth the money but if I could do it over I would but the highest rated single speed version for a little less money).

 

[jet_fun]

Hi the trailer setup is awsome! I ezpecially like the vertical pvc tube protectors. Where did you find them?

 

[Ronnie]

I'm pretty sure I got the veve guides at overtons For under $75 probably 5 years ago.

They are a little different from other brands in that they are all pvc except for the connection to the trailer so they are not subject to permanent damage when hit, they just flex and bend back.

Also they have a bend built into them which I think helps push the boat back to center a little faster than a straight guides.

The lights are another $20 and these are the cheap alternatives. If you get guide covers don't be surprised at the price, from $40 to $80 a pair. Also they don't last long in the sun, I'm on my third set now so I got 3 seasons per set from my previous two sets.

 

[jet_fun]

Thanks for the info.

 

[jetboater4life]

@Ronnie my trailer is pimped out with all the same stuff, except the ramp n clamp. I also have carpeted UBBs, which have held up well.

 

[claiton26]

Nice mods. I like the idea of having a camera on a trailer.

 

[Ronnie]

It’s been years since I’ve update this thread but only because it’s been years since I’ve done anything to the trailer. Last year one of my wheel bearings failed resulting in the wheel coming off on the highway while headed to the lake. I ended up replacing the brakes and axle. No pics but not much to see. Not a mod but a repair, again the first thing I’ve done with the trailer in years.

This year I purchased 14” Goodyear endurance tires, slightly wider than stock bu5 with the highest load rating currently available at 2,200 lbs. per tire. I also purchased new rims with the same load rating as the tires, Sendel model T-08. These match what is on the tow vehicle best. I also painted the brake calipers to match those of the tow vehicle. Side Note: When my 17 year old saw the new tires and wheels he said, “Dad, I never told you but the fake rims (wheel covers) you had on before looked like $hit.” This was after 5 or 6 years of use.

I just got new bearing buddies from pacific trailer, I also got the center caps to go with them. @Bruce turned me on to these years ago but timing wasn’t right until now. Basically I don’t need to remove the cap to see the grease level of each bearing buddy. If I don’t see any or much of the blue core, it’s time to add grease. Surprisingly, each bearing buddy with cap costs under $15, I got 5 of them. Whereas each tire and rim combo was closer to $290 each all in, I got 5 of them as well plus wheel locks on all lugs and a cable lock for the spare.

The trailer still needs some touch up paint and I will probably slap some new hydro turf and / or seadek on the tongue but other than this and a few decals I’m hoping the trailer is done and it’s just maintenance going forward. Although I’m considering getting a new trailer jack and having it welded on, the thought off all the weight being put on the sides of two thin U bolts bothers me, especially when I’m operating the jack to lift the tongue off the tow ball.

 

[biffdotorg]

Nice work Ronnie. You are going to love those tires. From what I have read, they replaced the Marathons, and it seems like for good reasons. As all the boat guys that raved about Marathons, seem to love the Endurance.

Quick question about your Fulton F2 Winch. I know you "load like a boss" but have you had it ratchet on you? Once it seems to be locked down to the winch post, I have had it "ratchet" or skip a gear and loosen. I many times have issues shifting it from Neutral, forward, reverse etc. I suppose I could the manual, as that was how I figured out how to get it into low gear. Obviously, bought the trailer with it installed, so I had no manual till I downloaded one. I mean, it's a winch, what is there to know? Quite a bit form what I found out.

Again, nice work and write up!

 

[Ronnie]

@biffdotorg , thanks for the compliment. In response to your question, I have never had the winch ratchet or loosen up on me either while using it or after I’ve gotten the boat all the way to the bow stop. However, I use it in conjunction with a ramp n clamp so there is probably not as much pressure on it as those that are not used with a ramp n clamp, at least not while trailering.

It sounds like you have the two speed version like I do. The only problems I’ve heard of with these is that the gears sometimes don’t mesh properly and they shave each other. Thankfully I have not had this issue or don’t recall having it either but I don’t use the second gear often, now that I think about it I may have used it twice in the decade or so that I’ve owned it and maybe just to see if it worked.

You shift gears by pulling the handle out to the side a half inch to an inch, do the opposite to shift it back into first /the default gear. Another nice feature about the f2 winch, other than it makes a good solid step, is that the handle can be switched to the other side. If my passenger/copilot/wife would work the winch more often I would switch the handle to her side but currently it’s just another feature that I have not used.

 

[JetBoatPenguin]

It’s been years since I’ve update this thread but only because it’s been years since I’ve done anything to the trailer. Last year one of my wheel bearings failed resulting in the wheel coming off on the highway while headed to the lake. I ended up replacing the brakes and axle. No pics but not much to see. Not a mod but a repair, again the first thing I’ve done with the trailer in years.

This year I purchased 14” Goodyear endurance tires, slightly wider than stock bu5 with the highest load rating currently available at 2,200 lbs. per tire. I also purchased new rims with the same load rating as the tires, Sendel model T-08. These match what is on the tow vehicle best. I also painted the brake calipers to match those of the tow vehicle. Side Note: When my 17 year old saw the new ties anencephaly rims he said, “Dad, I never told you but the fake rims (wheel covers) you had on before looked like $hit.” This was after 5 or 6 years of use.

I just got new bearing buddies from pacific trailer, I also got the center caps to go with them. @Bruce turned me on to these years ago but timing wasn’t right until now. Basically I don’t need to remove the cap to see the grease level of each bearing buddy. If I don’t see any or much of the blue core, it’s time to add grease. Surprisingly, each bearing buddy with cap costs under $15, I got 5 of them. Whereas each tire and rim combo was closer to $290 each all in, I got 5 of them as well plus wheel locks on all lugs and a cable lock for the spare.

The trailer still needs some touch up paint and I will probably slap some new hydro turf and / or seadek on the tongue but other than this and a few decals I’m hoping the trailer is done and it’s just maintenance going forward. Although I’m considering getting a new trailer jack and having it welded on, the thought off all the weight being put on the sides of two thin U bolts bothers me, especially when I’m operating the jack to lift the tongue off the tow ball.

View attachment 118033View attachment 118034View attachment 118039View attachment 118040View attachment 118041View attachment 118042View attachment 118043

What are all the parts you needed to buy for these? I assume you use covers as well. . . . and if any of the blue shows on the inside = that means to add grease correct. Thanks.

 

[Ronnie]

I bought my parts directly from pacific trailer. Here are pics of the parts I bought.
I suggest you verify the size you need before ordering, they come in more than one size.

my understanding is that the blue part of the core is the grease gauge. As grease fills the bearing buddy it pushes the core out and exposes the blue part.Lots of blue exposed means lots of grease in the bearing buddy, no blue exposed means low or no grease in the beating buddy.

 

[JetBoatPenguin]

I bought my parts directly from pacific trailer. Here are pics of the parts I bought.
I suggest you verify the size you need before ordering, they come in more than one size.

my understanding is that the blue part of the core is the grease gauge. As grease fills the bearing buddy it pushes the core out and exposes the blue part.Lots of blue exposed means lots of grease in the bearing buddy, no blue exposed means low or no grease in the beating buddy.
View attachment 118077View attachment 118078

Thanks Ronnie.

 

[Ronnie]

Not on my big boat’s trailer but on my little boats’ (wave runnerS’) trailer I replaced the bearing buddies with newer models which allow me to gauge how much grease is in them without dealing with dust covers. The same ones o
I put on the boat trailer.

 

[Ronnie]

Here is simple modification I wish I would have done years ago. Installed a thin strip of hydro turf under each guidepost cover and pad to keep the assembly from sliding down but still allow it to rotate. The first pic is of the type / shape I have, hopefully it puts the need/desire for the mod in context.

 

[drewkaree]

Ronnie, I'm not able to look at my trailer right now, but what was involved in replacing the hook for the safety cable? I hate that thing for the same reason you mentioned, I'm worried it'll come off as I'm towing. I already DID have it come off once, luckily it was held off the ground by the chains so it didn't get ground down to nothing, but I like the idea of a spring loaded clip so there would be an added measure of safety for this item.

 

[Ronnie]

I just replaced the stock cables without s hook clips with chains that had hooks with spring loaded clips. I accidentally discovered them at Walmart while shopping for a new chain to replace the cable that was destroyed when my trailer discounted from the suv on the freeway, landed on the cable and help grind it down until it eventually separated into two parts. Again different story.

The chains come in several sizes. Here is a pic of one available from etrailer. One alternative is a small strip of rubber (1”x3”) with a hole at each end. The end of the hook goes through one hole, and after the hook is attached to the tow hitch the end of the hook goes through the other hole which makes the rubber part the close the end of the hook to make it a loop. I used these for a while on the safely cables and the emergency brake cable. Sorry I could find any pics.

 

[anmut]

I just replaced the stock cables without s hook clips with chains that had hooks with spring loaded clips. I accidentally discovered them at Walmart while shopping for a new chain to replace the cable that was destroyed when my trailer discounted from the suv on the freeway, landed on the cable and help grind it down until it eventually separated into two parts. Again different story.

The chains come in several sizes. Here is a pic of one available from etrailer. One alternative is a small strip of rubber (1”x3”) with a hole at each end. The end of the hook goes through one hole, and after the hook is attached to the tow hitch the end of the hook goes through the other hole which makes the rubber part the close the end of the hook to make it a loop. I used these for a while on the safely cables and the emergency brake cable. Sorry I could find any pics.

View attachment 124647

Oh no, you're going to have to TELL US THAT STORY. No free lunches here...