Need Advice, Beached boat.... 2020 195 Impeller Removal

[YamaHog]

So long story short, my last outing of the season 2 weekends ago did not go as planned. My dad & I went out on a local lake/reservoir so I could check the oil level on the water and run the boat one last time before storing for winter. They are dropping the level of this lake to remove hydrilla but we're pretty familiar with the lake and I know where the shallow areas are from my Navionics maps. Unfortunately, I ended up beaching my boat on a muddy/gravelly point at about 10 -15 mph ( a very good ways off shore). Luckily there were no big rocks and no fiberglass damage to the boat, just some nasty scratching down the keel from where we tried to rock the boat free. Some nice people from the Marina and fisherman finally got us pulled out of the mud and towed back in after being stranded out there for about 3 hrs total (sucked up rocks in the impeller).

I pulled the jet pump off and quickly discovered I needed a new impeller. So I have a new Solas impeller to install since apparently it takes over 6 months to get a Yamaha branded impeller. Since I'm replacing the impeller and sucked up rocks, I ordered a new Yamaha branded wear ring as well to replace it while I'm in there. Now on to the fun....

I know the impeller is reverse threaded and have been following Hoyt's thread here for tips (https://jetboaters.net/threads/2019-yamaha-195-impeller-replacement.37855/). However, I cannot for the life of me get the impeller to break free to remove it. I have the special tool from Solas that goes on the splines of the driveshaft to hold it in a 4 1/2 in Vise on my workbench. I've tried hitting a wrench with a rubber mallet to no avail, and I just bought a 5 lb sledge hammer and tried hitting a pipe wrench with that. This thing WILL NOT budge! I've tried putting all of my weight on the pipe wrench handle as well. Still will not move! I have to keep checking the Vise to ensure it's staying tight on the other end. At this point I'm pretty frustrated and at a loss at what to try next.

Would it be safe to try heating up the driveshaft/impeller with a heat gun? Any ideas or suggestions are much appreciated. I have to get this thing off to install the new one, and at the same time I'm hoping I don't rip the top off my workbench. Below are some pics of the damage and my attempt to remove the impeller.

As far as the scratching on the hull, I've started to do a little bit of wet sanding on it, but it's going to take forever by hand, and I'm not sure how well I'll be able to polish it laying on my back under the boat.....that should be "fun"......but for now I've got to get the new impeller and wear ring installed and jet pump re-assembled and back on the boat. Since I couldn't start it up after the incident, I wasn't able to flush the engine so I want to be able to run it for a bit on the hose as soon as possible in case theirs any dirt/mud in the cooling lines.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Ditch the pipe wrench and get a 27mm combination wrench and use the box end of the wrench to remove the impeller. I think that pipe wrench is pinching the impeller threads and acting like a vise so the threads won’t budge.

There is a type of Loc Tite on the threads but it is really a sealant.

Try using the correct wrench first then yes you can apply some heat to the impeller itself, but only enough to heat the impeller and not the shaft, you want the impeller to expand but the shaft to stay cool. When you are all done you can send that damaged impeller to Impros and have it repaired so you will have a spare. Oh, be sure to use a torque wrench with the proper torque when you re assemble it, and of course some of that thread sealant.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Also, when I took my OEM impellers off the first time, I put a wrench on the shaft holding tool and put that between the tires of the trailer and then coupled another combination wrench onto the open end part of the wrench on the impeller, snipe / cheater etc… you can use a piece of pipe too, and broke the impeller loose that way.

Sounds like you could use a true depth finder as well.

Experience: Noun, Def-Is what you get when you don’t get what you want.

We’ve all been there man, things happen and you learn from them. You will get this sorted and be back on the water soon.

 

[YamaHog]

@FSH 210 Sport ,

Thanks for the suggestion. I guess I'm off to buy a wrench. I have a metric box wrench set, but but it only goes up to 20 mm size. I initially tried a crescent/adjustable wrench before trying the pipe wrench. What you are saying about pinching the threads makes sense though.

 

[Scottintexas]

Try this using the trailer

https://jetboaters.net/threads/my-impeller-bearing-replacement.20256/

 

[YamaHog]

Try this using the trailer

https://jetboaters.net/threads/my-impeller-bearing-replacement.20256/

Unfortunately, since my boat is a 2020 195s, my trailer is only a single axel.

@FSH 210 Sport ,

I picked up a 27 mm combination wrench from Auto Zone and gave that a try, as well as just heating the impeller up a bit with a heat gun. Pretty much got all my body weight pulling down on the wrench with gloves on, heard a pop and ended up on my back on the garage floor. Impeller didn't budge, but the Vise just snapped in half!

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Be careful not to damage the drive shaft it takes so much torque to get the impeller off it often causes fractures and then later the drive shaft breaks. I have my own way to remove the impeller email me and I will share it with you or search I may have even posted it on here several years ago

 

[Beachbummer]

It can take a lot of force to loosen it. I broke a vise trying some time ago and ended up buying a beefier vise. It's that tight. You need more leverage.

You can do it with an adjustable wrench and a pipe wrench too, but the extra pipe for leverage is the key.

 

[Dixemon]

echoing everyone else, You have got to put a cheater bar on that wrench.

 

[Ozark]

It breaks free pretty easy with enough leverage

 

[Ozark]

Also, you can send your original impeller to Impros and have it rebuilt. They can work magic on them.

 

[rockinthesuburbs]

It breaks free pretty easy with enough leverage

Jeebus- in the Air Force we’d call that “gorilla torque” among other 4 letter words as well! Right up there with Paula Deen’s “just a little bit of butter”. What’s the torque value? A few hundred foot pounds?

 

[YamaHog]

Well, I am going to have to replace my broken Vise anyway, but now I'm kinda worried about how big of a heavy duty vise I need to get. Still can't believe that vise broke where it did. I won't be getting another one from Lowe's or Home Depot. I'm wondering if something like this Central Forge from Harbor Freight is heavy duty enough.

Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977

Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!

www.harborfreight.com

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

The 4 foot steel bar makes quick work with the proper wrench.

 

[the MfM]

Well, I am going to have to replace my broken Vise anyway, but now I'm kinda worried about how big of a heavy duty vise I need to get. Still can't believe that vise broke where it did. I won't be getting another one from Lowe's or Home Depot. I'm wondering if something like this Central Forge from Harbor Freight is heavy duty enough.

Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977

Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!

www.harborfreight.com

https://fireballtool.com/products/fireball-hardtail-vise-deposit-for-pre-order-usa-only?variant=40514426765356

 

[Beachbummer]

If you need it now, the HF one works. It's not nicely machined and feels cheap, but it is cheap, and works, just does not have the smoothest or most precise machining.

 

[Dixemon]

You get what you pay for with vises, and they aren't cheap by any means. But something heavy duty from HB should work in a pinch. Old vises can be found in pawn shops and flea markets sometimes.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Just park your truck on the wrench that is holding the end of the shaft, get this operation on the ground where you can get on top of the wrench on the impeller, let gravity work with you / for you on this. Get a 4’ piece of pipe that will fit over the open end of the combo wrench to make this easier on you.

A vise that size isn’t meant for the kind of incredible torque you are putting on it, you’d need an 8 or 10” super heavy duty vise for that. Unless your vise is mounted to a steel table the next thing to fail will be your bench top.

After you get this broken free the first time if won’t be this tough, when I do mine now I put one foot on the wrench holding the end of the shaft and then stomp on the wrench that is on the impeller.



That double box end wrench on the left holds the spline tool, and the 27mm combo wrench goes on the impeller itself. Get some card board and lay it down to work on. That large adjustable end wrench you see in the picture is for the Skat Trak adapter or the Solas in case you were wondering.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Get some of this sealant to put on the threads of the shaft, and on the threads of the bolts that hold the pump in.

Low Strength Thread Sealant, 50mL, White: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Low Strength Thread Sealant, 50mL, White: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

Be sure and run a tap into all the bolt holes in the transom to clean all the sealant out of those holes, as well as running a die over the bolts to clean them up, and use a torque wrench when re assembling. The bolts are steel and the transom plate is aluminum. Take your time and do it right and cleanly and the next time you have to take it apart it will come right apart. If you don’t use the sealant on the threads you could have a very hard time and the threads could be damaged. Yeah the sealant is a pain in the ass to clean off, but that just means that the bolts or the transom material will not corrode over time.

This is the sealant for the pump housing to the transom. Use it sparingly, you only need to skin the transom plate side and you do not want it squishing into the cooling water supply duct.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FONONG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Both of those loc tite products are what the service manual calls for.

 

[Judge]

It breaks free pretty easy with enough leverage

Now that's a pipe!