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Did you take the line off the peehole and inspect it?
I just saw a post on facebook where someone's flushing cooling line had pinched shut at the u-bend in it. Was your ski shutting down out on the water or on the trailer with the flush port?
Well, I have water coming out now but motor will run great for some period of time then randomly bog down. It wont die, just boggs down and wont let it accelerate. I can pull throttle all the way back when it is bogging and it tries to keep going but just sounds very muffled. It starts right up every time and will idle as long as you want it to.
Do you still get the temperature/overheat alarm? I know a few people have had failed temperature elements. Being an electronic professional, I would be shocked that a ski of this age didn't have malfunctioning temperature elements. Another thing you could check is the jet pump strainer. If you reference your original image you posted in the other thread, the strainer cover is part 17, and the strainer is part 15. It could be clogged as well and still get some level of flow. It's four bolts, hopefully they are easy to reach. Those would be the next two things I would check.
I havent ever received an overtemp alarm. I just speculated at first due to what I thought was low water flowing out that it may be getting hot but dont think that is the case now. I checked the strainer and it was all clear.
That's good. If it's not a cooling problem the next thing I would look at would be the fuel pump.
Is this ski use fuel injected? Since it bogs down but doesn't die, fuel starvation might be the issue. I wonder if the fuel tank vent is not clogged and you are drawing a vacuum on the tank making it very hard for the fuel pump to keep pressure up. To check that run the ski with the cap loosened and see if it bogs down. It could also be a clogged fuel filter that clogs worse the more it flows.
Obviously you have good spark at least initially, you could check your rectifier to see if it is getting hot either due to saturation or overheating.
Does it still have the choke?
Or did it get replaced with the primer kit/ pump?
Either way when it bogs, try and pull choke out slowly while feathering the thottle. If it gets better even for a second you have remove and rebuild( clean out) the three carburetors.
If it has the primer pump try pumping it while feathering the throttle. If clears up its the same scenario. And those carbs suck to remove. The exhaust has to come out first because they are under it i believe
Its has carbs and still has good choke lever. I tried pulling up choke, both slowly and fast and it gets worse and dies with that. I will try replacing fuel filter and see about the fuel tank vent....
Sounds like it is as rich as it can get already if going to any level of choke kills it. Here are some more questions for you.
Have you checked the plugs? If so, what do they look like?
How old is the gas, and is it E10 fuel. E10 fuel will likely destroy a carbureted fuel system from 2001 in a very short time.
Have the carbs been rebuilt anytime recently? It may need a rebuild or a rebuild done may have been done incorrectly.
How long did the ski sit before you acquired it?
I replaced the plugs, carbs were rebuilt in 2016 right before it was stored and it sat for a year and a half but no fuel was in carbs during that time. Ethanol free fuel and I siphoned all old fuel out before starting it when I got it. Im leaning toward thinking it is running rich too but not familiar enough with this carb system to make adjustments.
Plugs have some light black, looks like an oil glaze, on tips when I check after running it.
To correctly check the plugs you would need to shut engine down as soon as it acted up and not let it idle. Then pull plugs and inspect.
Its a 2 stroke so oil residue is normal
Still working on it but I think I narrowed it down to the exhaust power valves. The servo motor that is supposed to open and close them was not working. Ive ordered one to replace it and should see it in a few days. The power valves were very full of old oil residue and carbon build up from never being cleaned before which made them hard to move freely likely causing the motor to fail due to extra resistance.
