Neutral safety switch

[Backdraft51185]

Have an issue hoping y’all can help me with, without dragging it all the way to the shop

Have a 2017 215 HO Impulse w 200’s. This weekend went to get her ready for the water after the winter and neither motor will crank. Turn the keys and the gauges cycle but won’t crank at all. All other features work and the batteries were on charger all winter. My only thought is the neutral switch in the throttle control not letting the motors turn. Is there an easy way to adjust or replace the switch? The local shop ( an hour+ away) wants $125 just to run diagnostics on the boat let alone fix it. Any ideas or help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Dude, check your relays in the back. It seems like everybody who has the "won't crank at all but everything else works" issue is always relays. There are youtube videos on how to check relays, but frankly, just buy some replacement ones. They don't cost much and you'll know for sure if it fixes the problem. Just make sure to get the right part number (it's on the relay itself). I have a 165, I have two of those relays. I bought two more just in case after seeing soooooo many people having this problem. I don't want to be stuck on the lake because of a $30 part. So I have two that I keep just like fuses.

Check them...

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Here's another such thread recently posted: https://jetboaters.net/threads/2017-255-starboard-engine-won’t-start.20584/

 

[Backdraft51185]

Dude, check your relays in the back. It seems like everybody who has the "won't crank at all but everything else works" issue is always relays. There are youtube videos on how to check relays, but frankly, just buy some replacement ones. They don't cost much and you'll know for sure if it fixes the problem. Just make sure to get the right part number (it's on the relay itself). I have a 165, I have two of those relays. I bought two more just in case after seeing soooooo many people having this problem. I don't want to be stuck on the lake because of a $30 part. So I have two that I keep just like fuses.

Check them...

I just ordered 4. Hope that’s it. Just crazy that it’s on both motors.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Regardless if it isn't, it's worth keeping them in the boat. They should provide one just like the fuses.

Otherwise, have you confirmed that the kill switch is ok? Have to ask. After the relay, kill switch and neutral position (and since you've already confirmed everything else I can think of), you're then probably getting into parts. But this seems unlikely since it's both motors... but I'm no mechanic.

 

[Beachbummer]

My old seadoo would beep when trying to start out of neutral, and again when neutral was selected.

No beeps on scarab to indicate neutral position?

Sorry I know nothing on these boats but with a brp powerplant I thought they might have carried over some features from the old seadoo boats.

 

[Dean P]

Sorry I know nothing on these boats but with a brp powerplant I thought they might have carried over some features from the old seadoo boats.

Please don't be sorry. We're all here for a common goal; good times on the water. All comments and ideas are welcomed. Thank you!

 

[Jet Boat Tom]

You probably already checked this. Emergency Shut Off switch? Gauges will power up without the lanyard.

 

[Backdraft51185]

Relay theory was right. I ordered new ones but while I was waiting for new ones to come in I swapped the 12v accessory relay with the power relay. Motors fired right up. Crazy that it happened to both engines at the same time but at least I didn’t have to pay a shop Fee.

 

[Dean P]

Relay theory was right. I ordered new ones but while I was waiting for new ones to come in I swapped the 12v accessory relay with the power relay. Motors fired right up. Crazy that it happened to both engines at the same time but at least I didn’t have to pay a shop Fee.

Wow, that's awesome and crazy at the same time. @ScarabMike spoke about having some of these on hand. Now I know why!

Thanks for sharing.

 

[ALAN MANN SR.]

A little dielectric grease on contacts will go a long way. I pulled all relays and fuses and put this in and on contacts, no more problems. Just my 2 cents again.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

lol Glad that helped. @ALAN MANN SR. Just an FYI, dielectric grease is NON conductive. It's a common misconception. I responded to somebody else about this, may be worth reading: https://jetboaters.net/threads/led-trailer-light-maintenance.20141/#post-343486

You can see our conversation there.

Not trying to insult you or anything, just setting the facts straight. What it would do would be to prevent a short of some sort. So if a short were to happen, the grease may prevent that from happening. It will also help in reducing/stopping corrosion thus keeping the metal in good shape. But it doesn't conduct electricity, so it actually reduces the contact surface area.

That's my nickel (we don't do pennies in Canada anymore, so we had to round to nickels now ).

 

[Beachbummer]

dielectric grease is great on electric contacts because it prevents corrosion and carbon build up on the connectors, as there is no arc when the connection is not perfect, because the grease keeps the electrical flow limited to the contact areas. It's a great point that it is not conductive, but it still a great product to slather on electrical connections to make them better than without it. it also seals a little bit, so it may keep a little sprinkle of water or some humidity from entering the relay.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

I never thought of putting it on relays and fuses... but I do use it. I usually clean terminals for example on my battery, make all the connections and then slather the grease over top of it all to prevent corrosion as you said. Achieves the desired effect and maintains the maximum of contact.

But yeah, usually doesn't matter because electricity doesn't need much contact to work. But my main point is that it does not conduct electricity, contrary to popular belief. It's everything else about it that's good for electrical connections.

 

[Dean P]

Is all dielectric grease the same? Any brand better than another?

 

[ALAN MANN SR.]

lol Glad that helped. @ALAN MANN SR. Just an FYI, dielectric grease is NON conductive. It's a common misconception. I responded to somebody else about this, may be worth reading: https://jetboaters.net/threads/led-trailer-light-maintenance.20141/#post-343486

You can see our conversation there.

Not trying to insult you or anything, just setting the facts straight. What it would do would be to prevent a short of some sort. So if a short were to happen, the grease may prevent that from happening. It will also help in reducing/stopping corrosion thus keeping the metal in good shape. But it doesn't conduct electricity, so it actually reduces the contact surface area.

That's my nickel (we don't do pennies in Canada anymore, so we had to round to nickels now ).

That was my point, the relays and fuses are not failing it is the corrosion on the contacts. The dielectric grease will prevent this and keep a good contact connection. Especially in salt water use. And yes I use it on all my trailers and trucks, on the light bulb connections and plugs. I also use it on my R/C boats, cars and helicopters to maintain a good connection. Just thought I could help someone else.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Yeah, definitely don't mean to be an a-hole Alan. I just see it over and over again where people think this grease is conductive. But yes, it's a good product and very useful to have. Also, I don't have as many corrosion problems since I'm nowhere near salt water.

 

[ALAN MANN SR.]

Is all dielectric grease the same? Any brand better than another?

No they are all about the same. Some are thicker than others. I use Permatex tune-up grease.

 

[Backdraft51185]

It was only half a victory. Now they both crank but one won’t fire. Can’t win.

 

[DR BLAKE]

Have an issue hoping y’all can help me with, without dragging it all the way to the shop

Have a 2017 215 HO Impulse w 200’s. This weekend went to get her ready for the water after the winter and neither motor will crank. Turn the keys and the gauges cycle but won’t crank at all. All other features work and the batteries were on charger all winter. My only thought is the neutral switch in the throttle control not letting the motors turn. Is there an easy way to adjust or replace the switch? The local shop ( an hour+ away) wants $125 just to run diagnostics on the boat let alone fix it. Any ideas or help is greatly appreciated.

I had the same problem. Drove me crazy b/c I’d take to dealer and it would start. Finally did it with them and it was not neutral safety switch!! There is a fuse (square one) in fuse box that they replaced and no problem since then. I bought a extra one in case it happens again but no issues since then