New 2021 212s

[JetMania]

Here are a few pictures from our first weekend with our new 212s. We love her!! Seems everything is nicer than our Glastron, except the trailer tie down straps. I liked that our Glastron had mounted, ratcheting straps. I think I will need to add these. Also, backing up even the slightest hill seems to engage the surge brake; I guess that is partly or all because of the heavier weight since we went with a bigger boat.

Only complaints so far are super minor and may be rectified once I read the manual or by doing some research on here. Top of the list is the “cruise control” and I was so looking forward to it too. First, they said Yamaha says it only works over 20 mph. That eliminates when it’s most needed, even though they said Yamaha doesn’t see the need for it at low cruising speeds. I guess kind of like the old cars that wouldn’t set below 35mph. Except I think it’s most needed when wakeboarding and surfing which is almost always done below 20mph. Who cares if you have to adjust the throttle a little if cruising or ripping across the water? But doing it when your towing sucks. It sets below 20 but doesn’t hold speed. Weirdly, I couldn’t get it to hold speed at any speed, even above 20. Set it at 25 and it will work its’ way down to 15-16 mph or maybe lower, but by then I give up on it. Might be doing something wrong, but so far disappointing.

Next was the anchor locker. Seems to only secure the exact anchor you must have to purchase from Yamaha. I have four anchors and it doesn’t hold any of them securely. If they’re not held securely, there’s a good chance the anchor will beat up the fiberglass in the locker in chop or over big wakes. Seems they might as well make the Yamaha anchor part of the package. I wrapped the anchor in towels to be safe.

The only other minor complaint was Connext system. The home screen should be customizable by the owner. Why wouldn’t they show music and volume level when on the home screen? Joystick makes total sense for when underway, but I couldn’t get access to anything except volume control with it. I will get more familiar by reading the manual.

Tow vehicle is a 2018 Nissan Titan XD Crew Cab. Everywhere we went we had heads turning and people staring. Dude came over yesterday at Lake of the Ozarks from his 41’ SeaRay and seemed envious and told his wife he wanted one. Check out our new boat:

 

[jgourlie]

Sweet looking boat. Congrats!

 

[Scboater]

Amazing boat!!! I love it.

 

[Sugarcharged]

Very nice boat. Congrats! I like how the white of the boat matches the white truck.

 

[anmut]

2020 212S here - get RideSteady. Don't think about it, just buy it. It'll change your cruising and towing.

 

[JetMania]

2020 212S here - get RideSteady. Don't think about it, just buy it. It'll change your cruising and towing.

Thank you for the advice! If it's that good, I am in. Appreciate it!!

 

[JetMania]

Very nice boat. Congrats! I like how the white of the boat matches the white truck.

Thank you so much! I do too, though I can't say I planned it that way, but it turned out nice.

 

[InmyElement]

Love the Boat!!!
The SeaDek color and rims on the trailer are awesome!
Happy Boating!

 

[JetMania]

@InmyElement thank you very much. We love her!! We were definitively pleasantly surprised with how much we like the SeaDeck color. My wife wasn’t sure as she said brown and tan don’t go with grey. I was saying it’s earth tones and brings a more classy look than bright with graphics. She definitely likes it now and I love it. I also love the trailer rims. We weren’t sure which trailer we were getting. I was kind of expecting galvanized with plain wheels. I really like the powder-coated black with the custom looking rims. I see no reason to look at upgrading wheels now.

 

[AZ Jetboater]

That's a great looking boat! I hated that color combination at first but its grown on me every time I've seen it since. I went with the black only because the top surface is white. It'd be way too hot for Arizona otherwise. Hopefully it shows up in September. I can't wait

 

[J-RAD]

Congrats! Really a great looking boat.

If your boat is the S and not an SE or SD then it is only equip with the more basic mechanical throttle and bucket control. The only speed control is the RPM based "Cruise Assist". Tapping up or down will increase our decrease the RPM's by increments of +-200. It requires constant babysitting to maintain a constant speed. These boats will creep up and down. You'll find it very inaccurate. The higher trim. Ridesteady, it is a phenomenal upgrade. It's syncs the engine RPM's full time at any speed over 8mph even when it's not actively managing speed. It's a MUST HAVE for watersports.

My '16 AR240 came stock with ratchet straps on the shorelander trailer. Your trailer should have a 7 pin connector and the 7th pin should lockout the brakes when you shift to reverse. I'd it's not working, check you have power to each pin. It could be a fuse, or perhaps the brake is compressed already when you have shifted. As a secondary manual option there is a key that should be hanging on the trailer that can be placed in the slot on the side of the tongue to keep the brakes from engaging.

 

[JetMania]

That's a great looking boat! I hated that color combination at first but its grown on me every time I've seen it since. I went with the black only because the top surface is white. It'd be way too hot for Arizona otherwise. Hopefully it shows up in September. I can't wait

Thank you!! Our last boat was black, red and white and the black would get so hot you couldn't touch it in the Summer sun. So I do like the white with grey. I think you will be okay because as you say the white is on the top. The black tower is the only thing you will have to watch out for as it will be super hot to the touch. I have good vibes on more shipping so I think you will be rewarded for your patience. I lived in Phoenix and opted for a pool while down there for 5 years, but I did have some good times up at Canyon Lake on my buddies Baja.

 

[JetMania]

Congrats! Really a great looking boat.

If your boat is the S and not an SE or SD then it is only equip with the more basic mechanical throttle and bucket control. The only speed control is the RPM based "Cruise Assist". Tapping up or down will increase our decrease the RPM's by increments of +-200. It requires constant babysitting to maintain a constant speed. These boats will creep up and down. You'll find it very inaccurate. The higher trim. Ridesteady, it is a phenomenal upgrade. It's syncs the engine RPM's full time at any speed over 8mph even when it's not actively managing speed. It's a MUST HAVE for watersports.

My '16 AR240 came stock with ratchet straps on the shorelander trailer. Your trailer should have a 7 pin connector and the 7th pin should lockout the brakes when you shift to reverse. I'd it's not working, check you have power to each pin. It could be a fuse, or perhaps the brake is compressed already when you have shifted. As a secondary manual option there is a key that should be hanging on the trailer that can be placed in the slot on the side of the tongue to keep the brakes from engaging.

Thank you J-Rad!! Is the Ridesteady something that can be added or retro-fitted to my boat? It definitely sounds like it would be well work it. I am going to put a meter on my truck's plug to check that 7th pin. The trailer stem compresses pretty darn easy, so it is possible it is slightly compressed when I shift to reverse I guess. Would that prevent the solenoid from disengaging the brakes? Going downhill some will always have it compressed, so I would think shifting into reverse should still disengage the brake. Otherwise, I will always be stuck if I'm trying to backup when facing downhill.

I appreciate the feedback!!

 

[JetMania]

Not sure why pictures are doubled up on my initial post on this thread. It only shows them once when I go to edit. Crazy I used to be the psuedo IT guy back in the day at my office and now I cannot figure out the newest stuff! Too young to be getting old!

 

[J-RAD]

Thank you J-Rad!! Is the Ridesteady something that can be added or retro-fitted to my boat? It definitely sounds like it would be well work it. I am going to put a meter on my truck's plug to check that 7th pin. The trailer stem compresses pretty darn easy, so it is possible it is slightly compressed when I shift to reverse I guess. Would that prevent the solenoid from disengaging the brakes? Going downhill some will always have it compressed, so I would think shifting into reverse should still disengage the brake. Otherwise, I will always be stuck if I'm trying to backup when facing downhill.

I appreciate the feedback!!

Yes, your boat is compatible. If you have questions Justin (@Ridesteady) is a member here and he's very responsive. There are numerous threads here on the topic with installs.

I'm not sure what might be the exact cause, but it certainly sounds like the solenoid isn't doing its job to release things one easy or another.

 

[JetMania]

Yes, your boat is compatible. If you have questions Justin (@Ridesteady) is a member here and he's very responsive. There are numerous threads here on the topic with installs.

I'm not sure what might be the exact cause, but it certainly sounds like the solenoid isn't doing its job to release things one easy or another.

That’s kind of what I was thinking since I had backup lights on the truck. I will put a meter on the 7th pin to confirm that signal is working at the plug. If it’s not, then it’s the truck. If it is, then something on the trailer, either the plug or the solenoid most likely!

I appreciate your help!! Thank you!!

 

[Ridesteady]

Is the Ridesteady something that can be added or retro-fitted to my boat?

Nice new boat, @JetMania !

Yes, Ridesteady will work on your 2021 212S. You'll need the "external display" since you have Connext (and Nav Light Extension wire if you want the Ridesteady display backlight to dim when you turn your lights on).

You're welcome to get in touch here or at info@hydrophase.com if you have any questions!

 

[212s]

@JetMania Congrats on the boat...here's some hints:

Regarding backing up there are three options, as mentioned you can use the surge brake lockout key that is on a cord on the tongue. It fits into the surge lockout on the side of the tongue and it works, but it's designed to fall back out when you go forward so you don't forget to remove it for safety reasons. This disables your brakes so you want it out when driving on the road.

Second is to leave the light cord connected, if you have a 5 or 7 pin connection then the fifth pin will activate the surge brake lockout solenoid so you can back up without the brakes activating.

Third is the option I use, buy a magnetic lockout key from Amazon or a marine supply store. It has a magnet so it doesn't fall out if you pull forward and line up again for a ramp or driveway, and you don't have to leave your light cord connected. For years I've always disconnected my lights to make sure it doesn't blow something on my truck. One like this should fit:

Lockout key

Just remember to pull it off before you get on the road or you will not have trailer brakes! I bought the 2-pack and have one in the back of the truck for regular use, and a backup in case I lose or break one. The 2-pack only costs $5 more so it was a no brainer.

Dealer doesn't quite know what he's talking about - Cruise Control works above 3,000rpm only so it should work down to about 12mph give or take. If your speed is dropping, it's not the Cruise Control, it's your main throttle is slipping back and will need a slight tweak to tighten it. As mentioned RideSteady will work much better if needed - I personally hardly use the cruise, I prefer to keep pace manually and adjust as needed to keep the excitement going. No Wake works from idle, but will cancel if you push the throttles forward so you don't forget to turn it off. Cruise will stay active and you can adjust the throttles manually, until you drop below 3,000rpm and then it cancels.

The anchor locker needs a danforth style with a stock about 19 inches long. My Fortress was a bit short but would fit and rattle around. I fixed that with a couple rubber bushings and 2 stainless steel screws from Home Depot for $5. Now it fits snug and doesn't move. I also bought a polypropylene outdoor welcome mat to line the locker and hold the anchor shank and chain without banging around, also from Home Depot for $8.

Read the manual about the controls, but the Joystick will control everything on the boat. By default it's a volume control, but press the top center volume/scroll button and you can move a red box around the screen, left/right, up/down, and press to click. Practice with it and you'll be able to control it all without ever touching the screen, settings, maps, zoom level, media sources, nav lights, everything. I love the joystick and think it should be on every single model.

These things are rockets and really impress everyone I take out, they just leap out of the water and take off. They do suck more fuel when going fast and wake sports, but we didn't buy a boat for fuel economy. Just a heads up, I've found our best economical cruise (just me and the wife with typical gear and a full tank of gas) has been about 5,100rpm which gets me 27-28mph and 9.0gph which equals 3.0-3.1mpg. That's actually slightly better than my old Mercruiser V6 which had a best of rating around 2.8mpg. Of course water, load, and wind conditions will vary.

Have fun!

 

[Yamahaul]

anyone know if those rims and tires will fit the shorelander trailer for the 2021 195s? i have to get new wheels for this thing. petty i know

 

[JetMania]

@JetMania Congrats on the boat...here's some hints:

Regarding backing up there are three options, as mentioned you can use the surge brake lockout key that is on a cord on the tongue. It fits into the surge lockout on the side of the tongue and it works, but it's designed to fall back out when you go forward so you don't forget to remove it for safety reasons. This disables your brakes so you want it out when driving on the road.

Second is to leave the light cord connected, if you have a 5 or 7 pin connection then the fifth pin will activate the surge brake lockout solenoid so you can back up without the brakes activating.

Third is the option I use, buy a magnetic lockout key from Amazon or a marine supply store. It has a magnet so it doesn't fall out if you pull forward and line up again for a ramp or driveway, and you don't have to leave your light cord connected. For years I've always disconnected my lights to make sure it doesn't blow something on my truck. One like this should fit:

Lockout key

Just remember to pull it off before you get on the road or you will not have trailer brakes! I bought the 2-pack and have one in the back of the truck for regular use, and a backup in case I lose or break one. The 2-pack only costs $5 more so it was a no brainer.

Dealer doesn't quite know what he's talking about - Cruise Control works above 3,000rpm only so it should work down to about 12mph give or take. If your speed is dropping, it's not the Cruise Control, it's your main throttle is slipping back and will need a slight tweak to tighten it. As mentioned RideSteady will work much better if needed - I personally hardly use the cruise, I prefer to keep pace manually and adjust as needed to keep the excitement going. No Wake works from idle, but will cancel if you push the throttles forward so you don't forget to turn it off. Cruise will stay active and you can adjust the throttles manually, until you drop below 3,000rpm and then it cancels.

The anchor locker needs a danforth style with a stock about 19 inches long. My Fortress was a bit short but would fit and rattle around. I fixed that with a couple rubber bushings and 2 stainless steel screws from Home Depot for $5. Now it fits snug and doesn't move. I also bought a polypropylene outdoor welcome mat to line the locker and hold the anchor shank and chain without banging around, also from Home Depot for $8.

Read the manual about the controls, but the Joystick will control everything on the boat. By default it's a volume control, but press the top center volume/scroll button and you can move a red box around the screen, left/right, up/down, and press to click. Practice with it and you'll be able to control it all without ever touching the screen, settings, maps, zoom level, media sources, nav lights, everything. I love the joystick and think it should be on every single model.

These things are rockets and really impress everyone I take out, they just leap out of the water and take off. They do suck more fuel when going fast and wake sports, but we didn't buy a boat for fuel economy. Just a heads up, I've found our best economical cruise (just me and the wife with typical gear and a full tank of gas) has been about 5,100rpm which gets me 27-28mph and 9.0gph which equals 3.0-3.1mpg. That's actually slightly better than my old Mercruiser V6 which had a best of rating around 2.8mpg. Of course water, load, and wind conditions will vary.

Have fun!

Thanks so such 212s!! Lots of good info! I definitely need to go through the manual for the touchscreen.

Last night I confirmed my truck’s 7th (middle) pin is working. It immediately showed 14V when shifted into R. Listened by the trailer when plugged in numerous times and never heard anything, if the solenoid is engaging it’s silent and hasn’t worked the first two times out. It has to be the trailer.

I will have to use the D insert and possibly invest in the magnetic type as it would be much easier. We’ll just get by until we take her in for the breakin oil change. We were given two years free service from the dealer and the trailer is under warranty so I will have them take care of it when we take her in.

Thanks again for all the info. I truly appreciate it!!!