• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

New boat owner! Any tips?

Bleed45

Member
Messages
22
Reaction score
5
Points
12
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2024
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
19
Hello all, I just joined the community and recently purchased a 2024 AR190. Haven’t even taken it out yet but I would like some tips from you guys on a few things.

I will start off by saying I have been on or around boats most of my life and have owned skiis but never a jet boat. My knowledge is probably beginner to intermediate. But I would love any tips or mods that help out with handling/shade/storage/maintenance/ or any other category.

My boat currently is out on the drive way protected with its original cover and some extra tarps. It will most likely remain in the driveway for the foreseeable future. I live in Southern California and the weather is pretty tame but I’d like some feedback on how to keep my boat in as good as condition as possible!
Thanks!
 
I have made a few mods as listed below but so far my favorite has been the Cobra Super Ultimate AK-19 Deluxe as it has allowed my wife to control the boat at slow speeds so she can drive it onto the trailer with little help from me.
 
Last edited:
I also installed the Cobra fins on my SX190 for the same reasons as XLR8ED. Wife drives the boat off/on and I back the trailer. The Cobra fins really help when there's a crosswind. First mod should be the Stoltz bow roller to keep the roller from scuffing the gel coat. Congratulations on your boat and make sure to post some pictures.

Also, If you've never owned a jet boat -- make sure you winch the boat onto the trailer when docking. Turn the boat off as soon as it hits the bunks and do not power load it. The jet pump acts like a vacuum and many times there is all kinds of crap just under the water at the ramp that will get stuck and damage your jet pump. Fishing line, metal garbage, etc. can ruin your jet pump in one outing.

 
I looked into the Stoltz Roller, but when I looked up the roller that came on my trailer from ShoreLand'r it is Polyurethane Roller Part Number #SK0195


I must admit the Stoltz looks nicer than the factory one.
 
@XLR8ED Congrats and welcome! For the Stoltz roller, the one you want is probably this one. JetBoatPilot is a pretty good company, and you can even call them and they'll pickup the phone and confirm the fitment for you. Stoltz Bow Roller Kits

You can see some of my mods in my signature. I'd focus on anything that helps keep you and your boat safe first. Start with your trailer and anything to do with hauling, loading, launching. So my number 1, would be the trailer boat guides, and I installed lights on top of the posts at the same time. I literally use these every time I land the boat, they are super helpful to not only see where the trailer is in the water, but course correct you on to the trailer. And then the lights on top of the posts help you see the trailer in the dark when loading, and help traffic see you and avoid you better when driving at night. Those with lights would be the first mod I would do, and it's not super expensive. Also I bought seadeck adhesive pads for the trailer tongue, the parts where you are climbing on top of when you're launching your boat by yourself. Those are cheap, but I appreciate them greatly every time it keeps me from slipping when climbing on the trailer onto the bow of my boat. Replace that yellow factory bow roller. Cobra Fins I think are another early upgrade. ANYTHING you can do to help you steer at slow speed. Keep in mind that they really still do nothing if you don't have any throttle. Our boats do not steer, without throttle. But I think they help a bit.

As far as new jet boat owner tips...
  1. When launching... make a checklist at first. Always double-check, Transom straps off. Drain plug in. Cleanout plug in. You'll need to back the boat further in the water when launching, then you do when loading.
  2. When starting... if it doesn't start don't panic- remember that you need the cleanout plugs in, and the back hatch closed, you need the little safety clip in, and the throttle in neutral.
  3. When cruising... it's pretty straight forward, and there aren't any tips you'll need. You can't really do much wrong. Here's the only things that can go wrong; don't ever go over a dock line or tow rope in the water, they will get sucked in and wrap around the impeller and stall your engine (always keep a knife on board for this), so watch out for your own lines tied to your boat. If you're boating somewhere that's weedy like a lake, plan that weeds will get wrapped around the impeller, and you'll experience what we call "cavitation" at higher throttle. Just shut off the boat, and open the cleanout plug and pull the weeds out. I go on lakes, and I have to literally do this once or twice every single time I'm boating. It's just one of those things.
  4. When docking... get your docklines and fenders setup early while you're sitting still... don't wait till you're close and in motion, because the moment you stop steering, our boats really tend to wander a lot and the boat will turn in a different direction. Tell your passengers what you expect them to do (jump out early, protect the boat, etc). And you can NOT steer without throttle, so going slow is actually difficult. Here's how you go as slow as possible, you move the throttle from Neutral, to the first click into forward gear for a second, then back into Neutral, and do this over and over, switching from N to in gear, and that will allow you to go slow, and still steer. Docking is kind of hard with our boats, compared to any boat with a prop. I can dock large pontoon boats brilliantly and confidently, yet I've had my own jet boat for 4 years and it's still 50/50 for me each time whether or not I'll dock it smoothly. So assume that docking will always be less than perfect, and if you do perfect it then well done to you sir.
  5. When loading... Don't put your trailer in at the same depth you launched from. You'll probably even want to see the front of the carpeted trailer boat supports just sticking out of the water, so that they will really guide the boat on straight. For me, I'd rather have the certainty of getting the boat aligned on the trailer. This is where you want those boat trailer guides, get a nice runway in, so you can go as straight as possible... Use the alternating between N and throttle, to go nice and slow. Sometimes after shutting the boat off and connecting the bow hook, I'll then back my vehicle in further, so the boat can float a bit higher and it's easier to winch on. (I don't try to power load and I don't recommend it). Winch the boat until the bow hook is touching the bow roller.
  6. Accept that you WILL scuff or scratch your boat, and probably in the first year. It's okay. Have fun!
 
Daren & Heather, I think you meant this for the OP Bleed45
 
The only tip that is true for any boat model or year is that we have foolproof ways to empty your wallet of all that pesky cash that is weighing you down, so just post your credit card number below so we can get started with shipments to your house 🤣

If you ever have questions or want some advice regarding your boat, take pics, NUMEROUS pics, from as many angles as possible, and close ups AND wider views of the area whenever possible.

Help us help you (and future readers) by letting us know what worked after your issue is resolved.

The dealer isn't as interested as we are, in getting you back on the water, even for a pile of money. We're cheaper - sometimes you get what you paid for, but often, we can be the best solution you'll ever need

Yes, your boat will get water in it. Sometimes it's for a reason that needs to be fixed - see the paragraph right above this one for advice on taking it to the dealer

You WILL scratch/nick/damage your boat eventually. You can leave it as a reminder that you should be having fun instead of worrying about it staying pristine, but if you want to fix/repair it, we gotcha covered for that too

You paid a lot of money for some fun. Make sure you stop to remember that once in a while, and smile. Your teeth will stop you from swallowing the bugs that hit you in the face! 😄
 
Great advice here. The one thing I will add is that the stock trailer tires are bias ply and have a low speed rating of 65mph, which in a lot of places is below traffic speed. If you plan to travel any real distance with your boat in tow, switching to radials will improve the ride and eliminate that speed limitation.
 
Read this thread…

 
Read this thread…

I did! i appreciate the info!
 
The only tip that is true for any boat model or year is that we have foolproof ways to empty your wallet of all that pesky cash that is weighing you down, so just post your credit card number below so we can get started with shipments to your house 🤣

If you ever have questions or want some advice regarding your boat, take pics, NUMEROUS pics, from as many angles as possible, and close ups AND wider views of the area whenever possible.

Help us help you (and future readers) by letting us know what worked after your issue is resolved.

The dealer isn't as interested as we are, in getting you back on the water, even for a pile of money. We're cheaper - sometimes you get what you paid for, but often, we can be the best solution you'll ever need

Yes, your boat will get water in it. Sometimes it's for a reason that needs to be fixed - see the paragraph right above this one for advice on taking it to the dealer

You WILL scratch/nick/damage your boat eventually. You can leave it as a reminder that you should be having fun instead of worrying about it staying pristine, but if you want to fix/repair it, we gotcha covered for that too

You paid a lot of money for some fun. Make sure you stop to remember that once in a while, and smile. Your teeth will stop you from swallowing the bugs that hit you in the face! 😄
haha Thank you! I am certaainly looking forward to breaking the boat in on its maiden voyage and hopefully not getting to many dings
 
Does anyone have any tips for what to do to store it outside? i has its cover and some tarps over it but not sure what else i can or should be doing to keep it nice inside
 
@XLR8ED Congrats and welcome! For the Stoltz roller, the one you want is probably this one. JetBoatPilot is a pretty good company, and you can even call them and they'll pickup the phone and confirm the fitment for you. Stoltz Bow Roller Kits

You can see some of my mods in my signature. I'd focus on anything that helps keep you and your boat safe first. Start with your trailer and anything to do with hauling, loading, launching. So my number 1, would be the trailer boat guides, and I installed lights on top of the posts at the same time. I literally use these every time I land the boat, they are super helpful to not only see where the trailer is in the water, but course correct you on to the trailer. And then the lights on top of the posts help you see the trailer in the dark when loading, and help traffic see you and avoid you better when driving at night. Those with lights would be the first mod I would do, and it's not super expensive. Also I bought seadeck adhesive pads for the trailer tongue, the parts where you are climbing on top of when you're launching your boat by yourself. Those are cheap, but I appreciate them greatly every time it keeps me from slipping when climbing on the trailer onto the bow of my boat. Replace that yellow factory bow roller. Cobra Fins I think are another early upgrade. ANYTHING you can do to help you steer at slow speed. Keep in mind that they really still do nothing if you don't have any throttle. Our boats do not steer, without throttle. But I think they help a bit.

As far as new jet boat owner tips...
  1. When launching... make a checklist at first. Always double-check, Transom straps off. Drain plug in. Cleanout plug in. You'll need to back the boat further in the water when launching, then you do when loading.
  2. When starting... if it doesn't start don't panic- remember that you need the cleanout plugs in, and the back hatch closed, you need the little safety clip in, and the throttle in neutral.
  3. When cruising... it's pretty straight forward, and there aren't any tips you'll need. You can't really do much wrong. Here's the only things that can go wrong; don't ever go over a dock line or tow rope in the water, they will get sucked in and wrap around the impeller and stall your engine (always keep a knife on board for this), so watch out for your own lines tied to your boat. If you're boating somewhere that's weedy like a lake, plan that weeds will get wrapped around the impeller, and you'll experience what we call "cavitation" at higher throttle. Just shut off the boat, and open the cleanout plug and pull the weeds out. I go on lakes, and I have to literally do this once or twice every single time I'm boating. It's just one of those things.
  4. When docking... get your docklines and fenders setup early while you're sitting still... don't wait till you're close and in motion, because the moment you stop steering, our boats really tend to wander a lot and the boat will turn in a different direction. Tell your passengers what you expect them to do (jump out early, protect the boat, etc). And you can NOT steer without throttle, so going slow is actually difficult. Here's how you go as slow as possible, you move the throttle from Neutral, to the first click into forward gear for a second, then back into Neutral, and do this over and over, switching from N to in gear, and that will allow you to go slow, and still steer. Docking is kind of hard with our boats, compared to any boat with a prop. I can dock large pontoon boats brilliantly and confidently, yet I've had my own jet boat for 4 years and it's still 50/50 for me each time whether or not I'll dock it smoothly. So assume that docking will always be less than perfect, and if you do perfect it then well done to you sir.
  5. When loading... Don't put your trailer in at the same depth you launched from. You'll probably even want to see the front of the carpeted trailer boat supports just sticking out of the water, so that they will really guide the boat on straight. For me, I'd rather have the certainty of getting the boat aligned on the trailer. This is where you want those boat trailer guides, get a nice runway in, so you can go as straight as possible... Use the alternating between N and throttle, to go nice and slow. Sometimes after shutting the boat off and connecting the bow hook, I'll then back my vehicle in further, so the boat can float a bit higher and it's easier to winch on. (I don't try to power load and I don't recommend it). Winch the boat until the bow hook is touching the bow roller.
  6. Accept that you WILL scuff or scratch your boat, and probably in the first year. It's okay. Have fun!
I really like the LED idea, i will be taking it to local lakes and in the off season it will get dark before we get back i assume. i bought the jet pilot fins instead of the cobra ones because we had unlocked the 35% discount. I am assuming they are all similiar
 
Does anyone have any tips for what to do to store it outside? i has its cover and some tarps over it but not sure what else i can or should be doing to keep it nice inside
It appears you have the shipping cover, some folks use that cover for off season storage, it’s burly and will stand up to the elements pretty well. Then there is the factory mooring cover that can be purchased which is much easier to put on, take off and store, in most cases the boat can be towed with it. Keeping either one of those covers on will keep a lot of dirt out of the inside, especially when towing. You live in So Cal so you’ve got a lot of sun as well as smog that could chew up the interior so keeping the cover on will protect the interior from those things as well.

There are lots of boat care tips on here, products and procedures, just do a search and you’ll have lots of reading to do. Here’s a nice boat drying towel you can use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CL7TXDGD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I have a few of these and use them for drying my car too.

Are you going to be boating in fresh or salt water?

Get an onboard battery charger and leave your boat plugged in to assure the battery is fully charged for a day on the water. A lot of folks on here have NOCO battery chargers and use them to great success, I have used the MinnKota chargers and the Victron IP67 charger and think the Victron is the best charger you can get, with its Bluetooth comms you can see what the charger is doing and has done. Installing one of these will make plugging the charger in very easy NOCO - AC Port Plug - GCP1EX Some people put them on the outside of their boat, others like myself have them on the inside. Our boats have small alternators and cannot properly charge your battery, your boat probably came with a flooded lead acid battery, these are good batteries but they just need to be charged properly to keep them at their peak performance. You should invest in a jump pack as well to be able to get your engine started if you happen to run your battery down while out on the water, NOCO makes one, I have the Antigravity brand one and it comes with all kinds of adapters to charge things like phones too. At some point down the road you may want to install one of these, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BF...&pd_rd_r=860d3b8a-59ad-436e-995c-73e554df7b7b
The Victron smart shunt can be configured to work with any battery size and chemistry and lets you know exactly what the state of charge is on your battery at any time, what the voltage is, what the amperage flow I’d in or out of the battery etc. It takes all the guess work out of knowing what’s happening with your battery.

As @drewkaree said we will help you dispose of that stuff in your wallet that it makes it uncomfortable to sit on!

Most of all, get out on the water and burn some fuel and enjoy your boat.
 
I really like the LED idea, i will be taking it to local lakes and in the off season it will get dark before we get back i assume. i bought the jet pilot fins instead of the cobra ones because we had unlocked the 35% discount. I am assuming they are all similiar

I would look for dimmable lights, it'd be a shame to install swanky new bling on your boat, and then never want to use it because you're blinded at night when they're on. If that's not applicable, forgive me, I didn't follow any links, so I'm only going on what it sounds like.


  1. When docking... get your docklines and fenders setup early while you're sitting still... don't wait till you're close and in motion, because the moment you stop steering, our boats really tend to wander a lot and the boat will turn in a different direction. Tell your passengers what you expect them to do (jump out early, protect the boat, etc). And you can NOT steer without throttle, so going slow is actually difficult. Here's how you go as slow as possible, you move the throttle from Neutral, to the first click into forward gear for a second, then back into Neutral, and do this over and over, switching from N to in gear, and that will allow you to go slow, and still steer. Docking is kind of hard with our boats, compared to any boat with a prop. I can dock large pontoon boats brilliantly and confidently, yet I've had my own jet boat for 4 years and it's still 50/50 for me each time whether or not I'll dock it smoothly.

This is good advice, although I find docking to be quite a bit nicer than with a prop since I've got twins, and I didn't have too many prop habits to get in the way of my gaining jet knowledge. It WILL come with time. @WiskyDan and @FSH 210 Sport can attest to the area I boat in, and there are PLENTY of prop masters that can't do what we do with our jets, so I think it's just a learning curve thing for either type of propulsion, and once you're used to one type, it's hard to unlearn some of the things.

Go practice. A lot. Take someone patient, or be prepared to teach that not-so-patient person, and explain to them that they may need to be pressed into duty, so they should get familiar with things - at the very least, they'll be more understanding of what's going on when you have difficulties.

I do NOT recommend more than 1 or 2 people helping you. With what @Daren and Heather said about the requirement to be in motion, ADDED movement in the boat from others is going to make everything more difficult. "Please, everyone remain seated, and keep all items INSIDE the boat until the ride has come to a complete stop" Getting up and moving around will only impair your vision at a stressful time, and it WILL move your boat, so that perfect method you had for sidling up to the pier now has the ass-end going underneath it, scratching or damaging the transom, someone will want to help from the bow and pull it close, flaring the transom completely away from the pier and forcing you to possibly pull away, etc etc etc.

Designate your helper (1 additional, if you prefer) as you're leaving, and DEFINITELY get things ready well before you're coming up to the pier. What you will want to get ready is a matter of personal preference, and do NOT be afraid to change it up as you find new things that work better. You WILL likely waste money on things that you find that you don't like, but test out things. Some like to use a docking pole. I have one, I bought it, thinking it would make things so much easier. It sits, unused, on my porch. It's not sturdy enough to use in the current on the river I'm on, and isn't needed elsewhere for me. That's life. I use it for things around the house more than I'll EVER use it on the boat, and my wife finds it to be a great way to hang christmas lights 😁
 
I would look for dimmable lights, it'd be a shame to install swanky new bling on your boat, and then never want to use it because you're blinded at night when they're on. If that's not applicable, forgive me, I didn't follow any links, so I'm only going on what it sounds like.




This is good advice, although I find docking to be quite a bit nicer than with a prop since I've got twins, and I didn't have too many prop habits to get in the way of my gaining jet knowledge. It WILL come with time. @WiskyDan and @FSH 210 Sport can attest to the area I boat in, and there are PLENTY of prop masters that can't do what we do with our jets, so I think it's just a learning curve thing for either type of propulsion, and once you're used to one type, it's hard to unlearn some of the things.

Go practice. A lot. Take someone patient, or be prepared to teach that not-so-patient person, and explain to them that they may need to be pressed into duty, so they should get familiar with things - at the very least, they'll be more understanding of what's going on when you have difficulties.

I do NOT recommend more than 1 or 2 people helping you. With what @Daren and Heather said about the requirement to be in motion, ADDED movement in the boat from others is going to make everything more difficult. "Please, everyone remain seated, and keep all items INSIDE the boat until the ride has come to a complete stop" Getting up and moving around will only impair your vision at a stressful time, and it WILL move your boat, so that perfect method you had for sidling up to the pier now has the ass-end going underneath it, scratching or damaging the transom, someone will want to help from the bow and pull it close, flaring the transom completely away from the pier and forcing you to possibly pull away, etc etc etc.

Designate your helper (1 additional, if you prefer) as you're leaving, and DEFINITELY get things ready well before you're coming up to the pier. What you will want to get ready is a matter of personal preference, and do NOT be afraid to change it up as you find new things that work better. You WILL likely waste money on things that you find that you don't like, but test out things. Some like to use a docking pole. I have one, I bought it, thinking it would make things so much easier. It sits, unused, on my porch. It's not sturdy enough to use in the current on the river I'm on, and isn't needed elsewhere for me. That's life. I use it for things around the house more than I'll EVER use it on the boat, and my wife finds it to be a great way to hang christmas lights 😁

I will attest to what @drewkaree states. The only thing that would come close handling wise is a boat with twin outboards / I/O’s / stern drives, but our boats will make maneuvers without worry of a prop strike. And where @drewkaree and @WiskyDan boat it’s really nice to have the shallow draft of our jet boats, it would take me a while to get used to how shallow their lakes are. I’ve never seen so many Yamaha jet boats in one area.

One thing I forgot to mention was using is the TDE (Thrust Directional Enhancer) position, it’s the first detent forward of your throttles and the no wake mode (also doubles as the cruise assist) button, both of these things are talked about in your manual. The no wake mode raises the rpm of your engine above idle in three steps, the TDE position opens the gate partially and this allows some thrust to go straight back and some gets forced down and to the side, these two things when used together are designed to greatly enhance the directional control at low speed / no wake areas. With the no wake mode in level three which is roughly 2300 rpm and the throttle in TDE turning the steering wheel left or right fully produces a brisk direction change, small movements of the steering wheel make small directional changes responsively and will make driving your boat at low speed a lot more intuitive. And to answer a question you be thinking, no I do not have thrust vectors on my boat.

The cruise assist button is used while you are cruising at speed, from 3500 rpm to 7000 rpm I think-it will not function at WOT, it adjusts the engine rpm up or down in 16 increments, up eight or down eight from the rpm you start using it at, in I think 150 rpm increments. Moving the throttle up or down will override the cruise assist setting and returning the throttle to neutral to neutral cancels it. The cruise assist is super useful to make smooth incremental speed changes while cruising, in less than glassy conditions using the cruise assist keeps you from making an unintentional large throttle change when you are crossing over waves / chop etc.

There is a fuel used tab in your connext screen, this shows the total amount of fuel that your engine has used, accurate to within 1/10th of a gallon in my experience, and it is resettable. Every time I fill up with fuel I reset this fuel used tab so I know exactly how much fuel I’ve used, how much fuel is left in the tank, and how much I need to put in at the next fill up. Yes you have a fuel gauge that reads in percentage and is useful for a quick glance. Lots of other neat tools in the connext screen check it out.

You might check out Lumitech for your lighting needs, they have a good selection of single and two color LED lights that are dimmable and are controlled with a simple on off rocker switch.
 
Last edited:
And you can NOT steer without throttle, so going slow is actually difficult. Here's how you go as slow as possible, you move the throttle from Neutral, to the first click into forward gear for a second, then back into Neutral, and do this over and over, switching from N to in gear, and that will allow you to go slow, and still steer. Docking is kind of hard with our boats, compared to any boat with a prop. I can dock large pontoon boats brilliantly and confidently, yet I've had my own jet boat for 4 years and it's still 50/50 for me each time whether or not I'll dock it smoothly. So assume that docking will always be less than perfect, and if you do perfect it then well done to you sir.

This is great advice and made things easier for me when docking - in and out of neutral to control your speed/steering.

Two more pieces of advice thst I’ve found helpful when docking:

- Never move at a speed that you are unwilling to hit the dock at. The in/out of neutral advice helps with this greatly but as you get more experience you’ll get a feel for if you are coming in too hot - don’t be afraid to abort and circle around for another try.
- If you are trying to pull into a dock that is perpendicular to the current do a scout approach so you can see how the current will affect the boat. I do this in most instances and gives me a better idea on how much throttle I will need and at what angle I need to approach the dock.

I’ve been carrying a couple of Mission fenders in my ski locker for those docks that have pilings that make standard fenders useless. I take the Mission fenders and attach them to the pilings which works well as long as they are secured correctly - and you remember to grab them when you leave.

My biggest challenge is docking when the current is pushing the boat away from the dock. I try to avoid these situations at all costs. :-)
 
My biggest challenge is docking when the current is pushing the boat away from the dock. I try to avoid these situations at all costs. :-)

Dan's post is a great example of the need for you to practice to learn and find out what you are more comfortable with and what your preferences are. It's not "wrong" to do things differently, as long as you are comfortable with them.

@WiskyDan and I boat in the exact same waters and on the river, and my preference is to dock down river so the current pushes me away from the pier. It helps keep my boat away from possible damage, and my fenders are simply there for supplemental support, but it necessarily means that I have to dock into the current.

Dan isn't wrong, since he's more comfortable his way, and I'm not wrong for the same reason. We both may be forced to dock counter to our preference, so you need to be prepared (and practice, if possible) for something you're less skilled at.

This is why you should take all the suggestions and try them, if possible, to "find your Lane". That's part of the fun, but try to learn before you're put into a pressure situation.
 
I will attest to what @drewkaree states. The only thing that would come close handling wise is a boat with twin outboards / I/O’s / stern drives, but our boats will make maneuvers without worry of a prop strike. And where @drewkaree and @WiskyDan boat it’s really nice to have the shallow draft of our jet boats, it would take me a while to get used to how shallow their lakes are. I’ve never seen so many Yamaha jet boats in one area.

One thing I forgot to mention was using is the TDE (Thrust Directional Enhancer) position, it’s the first detent forward of your throttles and the no wake mode (also doubles as the cruise assist) button, both of these things are talked about in your manual. The no wake mode raises the rpm of your engine above idle in three steps, the TDE position opens the gate partially and this allows some thrust to go straight back and some gets forced down and to the side, these two things when used together are designed to greatly enhance the directional control at low speed / no wake areas. With the no wake mode in level three which is roughly 2300 rpm and the throttle in TDE turning the steering wheel left or right fully produces a brisk direction change, small movements of the steering wheel make small directional changes responsively and will make driving your boat at low speed a lot more intuitive. And to answer a question you be thinking, no I do not have thrust vectors on my boat.

The cruise assist button is used while you are cruising at speed, from 3500 rpm to 7000 rpm I think-it will not function at WOT, it adjusts the engine rpm up or down in 16 increments, up eight or down eight from the rpm you start using it at, in I think 150 rpm increments. Moving the throttle up or down will override the cruise assist setting and returning the throttle to neutral to neutral cancels it. The cruise assist is super useful to make smooth incremental speed changes while cruising, in less than glassy conditions using the cruise assist keeps you from making an unintentional large throttle change when you are crossing over waves / chop etc.

There is a fuel used tab in your connext screen, this shows the total amount of fuel that your engine has used, accurate to within 1/10th of a gallon in my experience, and it is resettable. Every time I fill up with fuel I reset this fuel used tab so I know exactly how much fuel I’ve used, how much fuel is left in the tank, and how much I need to put in at the next fill up. Yes you have a fuel gauge that reads in percentage and is useful for a quick glance. Lots of other neat tools in the connext screen check it out.

You might check out Lumitech for your lighting needs, they have a good selection of single and two color LED lights that are dimmable and are controlled with a simple on off rocker switch.
Thanks for the info! I have a JetSki with the connext screen but it isn’t nearly as high tech. Will need to spend some time and get it set up to my preferences.
 
I really like the LED idea, i will be taking it to local lakes and in the off season it will get dark before we get back i assume. i bought the jet pilot fins instead of the cobra ones because we had unlocked the 35% discount. I am assuming they are all similiar
You know what they say about assuming. You will miss out on the tempered aluminum ,adjustable features and the ability to set the fins to stay down at speed or go up at speed and the super fins that are designed to automatically change their influence based on the position of the hull in the water .
And the plaining surface option that gets you on plane faster as well as reduces the bow hop in rough water.
plus the improvements that will help you with water sport activities and get rid of high speed bow wander.
Understand that your nozzle already has angled reverse thrust from the factory so you do not need any additional side thrust , doing so will take away from your available reverse and stopping power, reverse on a jet boat is also the stopping power. Would you want less brakes on your car.
Cobra always has buy direct discount prices with free domestic shipping. No pricing games.
23 years of experience and a 30 day satisfaction money back guarantee.
So the super ultimate deluxe system is buy direct discount priced at only $268.99 this price includes the tempered aluminum adjustable and selectable super fins for all speeds and conditions as well as the plaining surface.
Or if the price is that important you can order the one with no plaining surface for only $234.99. the other system you ordered does not have that and you would still be way ahead of the game!
I always say do your research and never buy a price buy a product and if you don't know the difference wait until you do because The bad feeling of making a poor choice based on price remains long after the good feeling of low price goes away!
Always compare features and benefits.
I also always tell people to drive their boat as it came from the factory and then decide what if anything you wish to change or improve.
Cobra Super Ultimate AK-19 and new Super Ultimate AK-19 DELUXE steering for 2019 and newer Yamaha Single Engine Jet Boats
picture is a super ultimate ak-19 deluxe system for the 2019 and newer Yamaha 19 foot jet boats note the fins are adjustable there are no sharp water skies under the fins or cross bars below the nozzle between the fins.
1723989596432.jpeg
 
Back
Top