New Trailer

[slickstick]

I've been trying unsuccessfully to trade my painted for a galvanized trailer. Unless somebody wants to jump on board the great deal (hint) I may buckle down and buy a new one. Is there any particular manufacturer, type of trailer, or place you all recommend to buy from?

I assume if I am going to buy a new one, it's probably better to get one with electronic brakes instead of surge brakes. Any other suggestions? Any issues to worry about such as with fitment or ease of getting the boat on/off the trailer with aftermarket options?

 

[suke]

Get aluminum instead of galvanized. I have no issue with my surge brakes, so can't really offer anything on electric vs surge. I bet you can "trade in" your trailer on the new one.

 

[slickstick]

Get aluminum instead of galvanized. I have no issue with my surge brakes, so can't really offer anything on electric vs surge. I bet you can "trade in" your trailer on the new one.

Yea really all I need is something I can use in the salt that won't rust. I just said galvanized because it seems like that's what most people use around here.

What are pros/cons about aluminum vs galvanized? Why do you recommend the aluminum?

 

[Elliott]

AL trailers are much more resistant to corrosion than galvanized; and therefore, they are the choice for salt water. The only real con to AL is cost.

You may want to have surge brakes with a boat your size - less complex and no electrical parts to get dunked.

FWIW, Magic Tilt is a popular brand of after market trailer around here, but I would visit your local trailer dealers first to see what they have and if they will take a trade in.

 

[suke]

AL trailers are much more resistant to corrosion than galvanized; and therefore, they are the choice for salt water. The only real con to AL is cost.

You may want to have surge brakes with a boat your size - less complex and no electrical parts to get dunked.

FWIW, Magic Tilt is a popular brand of after market trailer around here, but I would visit your local trailer dealers first to see what they have and if they will take a trade in.

Yup, everything he said.

 

[2kwik4u]

Electric Vs Surge brakes is a hot debate. Most people that have Surge brakes love them, until they drive with electric brakes. The difference is hard to explain, and the experience is hard to deny. Electrics have saved my butt a number of times in panic stops. The ability to reach down and "fan" the controller to add brake bias has kept my setup in line during a panic. Think of it as a proactive system instead of a reactive system. A good electric controller with well adjusted actuators feels almost telepathic in it's operation.

The absolute BEST system you can get for a marine trailer is an electric over hydraulic system. This gives you the control of an electric system, and the durability from water intrusion of a hydraulic system. If you're buying a brand new trailer, and have the budget to make this work, it's honestly the best bet. @Betik has this setup and has sung it's praises a number of times.

I personally hate surge brakes, and will convert any trailer with them over to electric's if I get that way. Current trailer doesn't have brakes (I'm on the edge of legality there honestly), and I've considered upgrading it with a set of electrics. I haven't researched lately, but a few years back there was a brand from Reese that were called "Sharkskin" and were purposely made to be dunked on boat trailers. I would at least go that route on a new trailer, if Electric over hydraulic isn't an option for you.

 

[JBehrens]

I would go with electronic breaks, I have seen a lot of issues with surge break setups over the last few years plus they tend to drag all the time at slow speed or when launching. Like others have said, if you are spending the money, buy an aluminum trailer. Mine has been in the salt constantly the last two years and still looks brand new, not to mention the added weight savings is really nice for cross country trips.

If you are looking for a good aluminum trailer that will outlast your boat, I highly recommend Kokopelli Trailers out of Phoenix, Arizona. They do some amazing work and build a bulletproof trailer that is backed by a lifetime warranty, honestly one of the best upgrades made to the boat next to the stereo.

I think @Betik has a LoadRite trailer and has had good results with them as well.

 

[Betik]

I do have a load rite and it works fine.
as far as electric over hydronic brake go if money is not an issue you should defiantly get them. @2kwik4u for you described very well once you try them there is no going back. Describing the feeling is difficult too, but once you have driven electric for a while when you go back to surge brakes is a bit stressful.
One thing that I can say for certain is that when I hit the brakes the response is not only immediate but often enough our heads get thrown forward because of the momentum ( that is with a gain of 4.0 out of 10).
At times I feel that I should be a break test with and without trailer and see the difference. I know it is not likely but I will be surprised that I might get a shorter distance with the trailer.
As a full disclaimer I want to add that I have duck brakes on both axles and in my opinion if electric is too expensive at least I will add a second set of disks on the other axle. I did both axle and electric at the same time so I cannot tell which one made the biggest difference.

 

[06c6z06]

Also if you are getting a new trailer make sure you get one with torsion axles. That way you don have the problem with the leaf springs.

 

[slickstick]

Also if you are getting a new trailer make sure you get one with torsion axles. That way you don have the problem with the leaf springs.

Local shop has an aluminum trailer with torsion axles. He was saying the same thing that down here the leaf springs would need replaced every couple of years. $4,300 but only has a 4,000 lb capacity which seems to be cutting it close. Wet weight on my 212x is around 4,100 pounds.

I was also confused what he was saying about the brakes. I asked if it was surge brakes or electric. He said electric but said it needed reverse connected for when trying to reverse. Sounded to me like how solenoid works with our surge brakes. I asked about the plug and he said neither the 7 pin round or the rectangle plug would work, a separate reverse cable needs ran. Seemed odd. I didn't go check it out because he won't accept a trade in and I have no where to put the old trailer if I buy it. This painted trailer is becoming a real pain in my ass down down in FL.

 

[slickstick]

Electric Vs Surge brakes is a hot debate. Most people that have Surge brakes love them, until they drive with electric brakes. The difference is hard to explain, and the experience is hard to deny. Electrics have saved my butt a number of times in panic stops. The ability to reach down and "fan" the controller to add brake bias has kept my setup in line during a panic. Think of it as a proactive system instead of a reactive system. A good electric controller with well adjusted actuators feels almost telepathic in it's operation.

The absolute BEST system you can get for a marine trailer is an electric over hydraulic system. This gives you the control of an electric system, and the durability from water intrusion of a hydraulic system. If you're buying a brand new trailer, and have the budget to make this work, it's honestly the best bet. @Betik has this setup and has sung it's praises a number of times.

I personally hate surge brakes, and will convert any trailer with them over to electric's if I get that way. Current trailer doesn't have brakes (I'm on the edge of legality there honestly), and I've considered upgrading it with a set of electrics. I haven't researched lately, but a few years back there was a brand from Reese that were called "Sharkskin" and were purposely made to be dunked on boat trailers. I would at least go that route on a new trailer, if Electric over hydraulic isn't an option for you.

I didn't think about the controller aspect. If that's required, I'd rather not bother with the cabling. The surge brakes work fine for me for braking, they keep locking up in reverse is the negative I have been experiencing.

 

[slickstick]

Do the OEM Shorelander trailers have reverse lights? I was trying to test the reverse connection that way, and didn't see any come on but wasn't sure if there are any to begin with.

 

[Elliott]

If you are having trouble getting rid of your old trailer, just use it up. If you coat it with Fluid film or Sharkhide / spray it down with an anti-salt spray after saltwater use / wash it and touch up rust with The Must For Rust and Cold Galvanization Spray paint, you can probably get 3-7 years out of it.

You noted that you are in FL; Magic Tilt trailers out of Clearwater, Fl has dealers all over Florida.

 

[Betik]

You need more weight carrying capacity than 4,300lbs. Although theoretically correct I would go at least 5,000lbs. Mine is over 6,000lbs for my 240.

 

[slickstick]

If you are having trouble getting rid of your old trailer, just use it up. If you coat it with Fluid film or Sharkhide / spray it down with an anti-salt spray after saltwater use / wash it and touch up rust with The Must For Rust and Cold Galvanization Spray paint, you can probably get 3-7 years out of it.

You noted that you are in FL; Magic Tilt trailers out of Clearwater, Fl has dealers all over Florida.

I was thinking about this if I didn't find a decent deal. Found a Magic Tilt in stock at a local spot today. $4000, double axle, 4,600 pound capacity, aluminum. They also took a trade in. I only got $1,000 which sucks because the trailer is probably worth $3K or so up north, but seems better than anyone else was about to offer so I went for it. It has leaf springs. They could have ordered me a torsional but recommended against it. They said it's a cheap/easy replacement when needed compared to the torsional you need to replace the entire axle. 2 year warranty and lots of Magic Tilt dealers in the area so seemed like the way to go.

I need to bring the boat by next week sometime to get the adjustments.

 

[slickstick]

You need more weight carrying capacity than 4,300lbs. Although theoretically correct I would go at least 5,000lbs. Mine is over 6,000lbs for my 240.

More margin can never hurt but the stock Shorelander for my boat is only 4,400 pound capacity. The one I grabbed is 4,600 pounds capacity.

 

[slickstick]

Funny thing is it has a 5 prong electrical which they say is a FL standard. My hitch has the 7 pin round and a 4 pin. Need to order an adapter.

 

[Wayloncle]

Funny thing is it has a 5 prong electrical which they say is a FL standard. My hitch has the 7 pin round and a 4 pin. Need to order an adapter.

I would put a 7 pin plug on the trailer, then you won’t have to worry about keeping track of an adapter.

 

[SCP1]

Can you post a picture of the new trailer, thanks.

 

[slickstick]

I would put a 7 pin plug on the trailer, then you won’t have to worry about keeping track of an adapter.

It looks like the one I got I can just leave plugged into the 7 pin on the hitch.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082VV29H8