Newer 24 foot anchor locker drain- Can you check yours for me?

[MrMoose]

Hi all. If you have a newer 24 foot hull, can you check your anchor locker drain fitting? Is there an inner flange and an outer flange, or is it just an outer flange? I expected the fitting to be two pieces because the part number description on the Yamaha parts website refers to it as an assembly. I expected that there would be an inner flange that mates with an outer flange so that the water can drain from the locker past both the inner and outer hulls.
My 2015 does not have an inner flange. I assume that it may not have been installed at the factory because there is a plastic bracket (to hold the anchor arm in place) installed over the drain location.
If it's supposed to be a two piece drain, then I'll order the part and install it properly after I modify the plastic bracket to make room.
I just don't want to order the part (F2D-U2290-00-00) just to find out that it's just one piece (outer hull flange).
Thanks!

 

[robert843]

This was from the AR210 leaking thread. from @swatski

↑

"I think can confirm this for you @MrMoose, as I worked around those fittings when installing my docking lights in the 240.
There are two fittings/flanges inside and out, so as long as those are sealed water can only go inside into the enclosed anchor storage compartment or to outside.

Of course I'm making another assumption here that water flows down wherever you keep the boat. "

 

[Drift Away]

This was from the AR210 leaking thread. from @swatski

↑

"I think can confirm this for you @MrMoose, as I worked around those fittings when installing my docking lights in the 240.
There are two fittings/flanges inside and out, so as long as those are sealed water can only go inside into the enclosed anchor storage compartment or to outside.

Of course I'm making another assumption here that water flows down wherever you keep the boat. "

@MrMoose mine is at the high and dry ill try to get over tomorrow and get some pics of my 2016 SX240

 

[MrMoose]

This was from the AR210 leaking thread. from @swatski

↑

"I think can confirm this for you @MrMoose, as I worked around those fittings when installing my docking lights in the 240.
There are two fittings/flanges inside and out, so as long as those are sealed water can only go inside into the enclosed anchor storage compartment or to outside.

Of course I'm making another assumption here that water flows down wherever you keep the boat. "

@robert843 , I'm just looking for confirmation (eyes on the fitting or a pic), something better than "I think" before I go through the trouble of ordering the fitting.

 

[Julian]

Even if your warranty is expired, I'd take it to the dealer and have them provide the part under warranty....its not like you would have lost that part out of the anchor locker. I'd be surprised if Yamaha doesn't make it right.

 

[MrMoose]

Even if your warranty is expired, I'd take it to the dealer and have them provide the part under warranty....its not like you would have lost that part out of the anchor locker. I'd be surprised if Yamaha doesn't make it right.

@Julian, I agree with you in that Yamaha should make it right even if the boat is no longer under warranty, BUT, based on my experience, it's likely to be a painful process with a low probability of success on the first, second, and third try. My time and aggravation are worth the $10 that it will cost for the part.
I'd like to give a shout out to @Ilmmct for sending me some pics of his drain. His pics show that the drain has an inner flange that is properly sealed to the inner hull. If you zoom in on my pic in the original post, you can see that my drain is not sealed to the inner hull. They probably couldn't assemble the inner flange because there's a bracket in the way on my 2015 model, where there is no bracket in the pics that @Ilmmct sent to me.

RANT-ON: I worked as a quality engineer for many years, and I honestly have to say that people in the Yamaha assembly plant should be fired, starting with the plant manager. There are so many folks without good jobs these days who would not take a job with Yamaha for granted, yet there are people there who seem to think that it's ok to not do their job properly, or they are simply incompetent, and unable to do their job properly, this includes the possibility that corporate Yamaha is not staffing their operation properly. I know that it's just a $10 drain assembly, but it's getting really tough to support "Made in America". Some how, the discipline that formed the foundation of a reputable Japanese company has not transferred to it's US operations.
I'm not saying that everything that carries the "Made in America" badge is crap. I drive an american-made SUV that has not had a single assembly defect, so I can safely say that "Made in America" does not mean that it is crap. I know that some of you are thinking that I'm comparing apples to oranges, and that I need to accept that the marine industry is a different industry. I don't. -RANT-OFF

RANT-ON: PEOPLE SHOULD BE FIRED! -RANT-OFF

I feel better now.
Moose-out

 

[Reefdonkey]

@Julian, I agree with you in that Yamaha should make it right even if the boat is no longer under warranty, BUT, based on my experience, it's likely to be a painful process with a low probability of success on the first, second, and third try. My time and aggravation are worth the $10 that it will cost for the part.
I'd like to give a shout out to @Ilmmct for sending me some pics of his drain. His pics show that the drain has an inner flange that is properly sealed to the inner hull. If you zoom in on my pic in the original post, you can see that my drain is not sealed to the inner hull. They probably couldn't assemble the inner flange because there's a bracket in the way on my 2015 model, where there is no bracket in the pics that @Ilmmct sent to me.

RANT-ON: I worked as a quality engineer for many years, and I honestly have to say that people in the Yamaha assembly plant should be fired, starting with the plant manager. There are so many folks without good jobs these days who would not take a job with Yamaha for granted, yet there are people there who seem to think that it's ok to not do their job properly, or they are simply incompetent, and unable to do their job properly, this includes the possibility that corporate Yamaha is not staffing their operation properly. I know that it's just a $10 drain assembly, but it's getting really tough to support "Made in America". Some how, the discipline that formed the foundation of a reputable Japanese company has not transferred to it's US operations.
I'm not saying that everything that carries the "Made in America" badge is crap. I drive an american-made SUV that has not had a single assembly defect, so I can safely say that "Made in America" does not mean that it is crap. I know that some of you are thinking that I'm comparing apples to oranges, and that I need to accept that the marine industry is a different industry. I don't. -RANT-OFF

RANT-ON: PEOPLE SHOULD BE FIRED! -RANT-OFF

I feel better now.
Moose-out

I couldn't agree more. I wish I would have bought a different boat after my issues.

 

[Julian]

@MrMoose and @Reefdonkey have you had other issues besides the missing inner grommet on your boats? I understand the aggravation that this missing grommet has caused, but on its own it shouldn't result in a "wish I'd bought a different boat" response....I think there must be more to your stories than just this item.....

One of the other factors in the equation is the dealer and dealer prep. Many people pay a lot of money for dealer prep (I paid $1200) and I expected and got a full day's worth of 2 people's time making sure all the systems on my boat were in perfect working order when my boat arrived. Boats are shipped on trailers and don't have their own suspensions (the boats-not the trailers)- and as such take a certain amount of unusual vibration at a 45% angle usually-that typically is not normal....so having the dealer check it out upon arrival is an important part of getting a boat. If the dealer skips this...or does a poor job....then that sucks too.

All of that said....I too have been in QA, and would love to see bullet proof quality on every boat.....but I'm not going to have a coronary over a missing $2? grommet. But I would make sure it is taken care of by the dealer...and again...as I paid a lot for their dealer prep, they won't begrudge it as it doesn't make sense for such a simple fix.

 

[MrMoose]

Although my warranty repair experience was most unpleasant and quite unacceptable, @Julian's advice made me think a bit. My local dealership recently went through a house cleaning of sorts in their service department, starting with a new service manager. This guy came from the auto industry, and does not see things in the traditional marine industry way. He definitely made some waves, and this made me wonder if the warranty experience might be different now. So, I fired him an email that contained a pic of the problem, and I also told him that I realized that my boat was no longer under warranty. No demands, I just wanted to give Yamaha a chance to make it right. He forwarded my information to Yamaha, and they approved the repair even though my boat is no longer under warranty. They followed-up to tell me that the part was on order and that they'd let me know when it arrives.
I almost fell out of my chair. Prior experiences took weeks to get done what this new service team did in a day and a half. Previously, I'd spend hours on the phone with the dealership's service guy who would tell me that he submitted the request for approval to Yamaha weeks prior, then I'd spend hours with Yamaha who'd tell me that they could find no evidence that anything was submitted. I spent hours on the road driving to the dealership because they would not return my phone calls. I think that most of my bad experiences can be attributed to one or two individuals at the dealership(s) who were just straight-up incompetent, and very dishonest.
I don't hesitate to say it like it is when I'm not happy with Yamaha, but it's only fair that I share my experience when they demonstrate that they can do the right thing. So far, things are looking up.

 

[MrMoose]

@MrMoose and @Reefdonkey have you had other issues besides the missing inner grommet on your boats? I understand the aggravation that this missing grommet has caused, but on its own it shouldn't result in a "wish I'd bought a different boat" response....I think there must be more to your stories than just this item.....

One of the other factors in the equation is the dealer and dealer prep. Many people pay a lot of money for dealer prep (I paid $1200) and I expected and got a full day's worth of 2 people's time making sure all the systems on my boat were in perfect working order when my boat arrived. Boats are shipped on trailers and don't have their own suspensions (the boats-not the trailers)- and as such take a certain amount of unusual vibration at a 45% angle usually-that typically is not normal....so having the dealer check it out upon arrival is an important part of getting a boat. If the dealer skips this...or does a poor job....then that sucks too.

All of that said....I too have been in QA, and would love to see bullet proof quality on every boat.....but I'm not going to have a coronary over a missing $2? grommet. But I would make sure it is taken care of by the dealer...and again...as I paid a lot for their dealer prep, they won't begrudge it as it doesn't make sense for such a simple fix.

@Julian , I was typing my previous comment while you were posting yours. To answer your question, yes, I had lots of little things wrong with my boat. Most were the types of things that new owners just fix on their own, but I wanted to make Yamaha accountable, so I got the dealership to fix most of the issues up to the point that they clearly demonstrated (after many attempts) that they were incapable, or unwilling to do the repairs correctly, at which point, I took care of things myself. One dealership's solution to fixing a swim platform cup holder that wasn't draining was to stick a screw driver into the drain hole and push, which "fixed" the problem by popping off the drain hose and allowing the water to drain into my bilge. Even before I brought the boat home from that service event, I tried to get the service guy to understand that the water was supposed to drain out of the deck drain on the lower swim platform, and that they could not have fixed it right. I took a bottle of water and poured it into the cup holder and asked him where the water was draining to... he just shrugged his shoulders. I fixed it properly when I got home after a 3 hour tow. This same dealership didn't suck all of the old oil out of one of my engines during the first oil change, and as a result overfilled it by at least a quart. I had to change the oil myself before running the boat. There are other things that they broke or didn't fix properly, that I ended up taking care of myself. My biggest problem was that my boat leaked from day one. I told them about this, and their response was "They all leak". I got this response from two dealerships. It wasn't until I provided them with video evidence of water intrusion that they started to look into the problem, under the condition of "If we can't find anything wrong, then Yamaha won't pay us, so you will be responsible for the bill."
It took months for them to fix the leaks. They'd say that they fixed it, and that they water tested it. I'd pick up the boat, drop it into the water, run it for a couple of minutes and drain a gallon of water out of the bilge, all on video, then I'd bring the boat back to them. In the end, they didn't fix all of them, but they took care of the hard ones. I took care of the easy ones, because they didn't seem to care.
Based on my most recent (in progress) experience, I think that things are looking up though. All it takes is one or two incompetent and dishonest people to create a bad customer experience.
I kind of wonder if the bar is set by the Yamaha factory. Dealerships see boats riddled with defects coming in, and that's the standard that they work to.

 

[Julian]

@MrMoose whenever you have lots of little things - that can add up to major annoyances....so I get it. Glad the new guy at the dealer is more promising! Lets hope he pulls through!

 

[Mainah]

In the end, they didn't fix all of them, but they took care of the hard ones. I took care of the easy ones, because they didn't seem to care.

@MrMoose could you elaborate on what the hard ones and easy ones were. Quite a few members here seem to notice water in the bilge and can't figure out where it is coming from. I will certainly be checking my inner anchor locker when the shrink wrap comes off as a precaution. I think that @OUT ON THE REEF may have discovered the root source of bilge water woes for many a member regardless of model. I think the issue this thread is dedicated to could certainly be a common source but curious as to what other ones you are aware of?

 

[MrMoose]

The dealership replaced the hull fittings and connecting fittings for the drive shafts. Working down in the inside of the stern space was something that I would not have enjoyed doing.

 

[Reefdonkey]

@MrMoose and @Reefdonkey have you had other issues besides the missing inner grommet on your boats? I understand the aggravation that this missing grommet has caused, but on its own it shouldn't result in a "wish I'd bought a different boat" response....I think there must be more to your stories than just this item.....

One of the other factors in the equation is the dealer and dealer prep. Many people pay a lot of money for dealer prep (I paid $1200) and I expected and got a full day's worth of 2 people's time making sure all the systems on my boat were in perfect working order when my boat arrived. Boats are shipped on trailers and don't have their own suspensions (the boats-not the trailers)- and as such take a certain amount of unusual vibration at a 45% angle usually-that typically is not normal....so having the dealer check it out upon arrival is an important part of getting a boat. If the dealer skips this...or does a poor job....then that sucks too.

All of that said....I too have been in QA, and would love to see bullet proof quality on every boat.....but I'm not going to have a coronary over a missing $2? grommet. But I would make sure it is taken care of by the dealer...and again...as I paid a lot for their dealer prep, they won't begrudge it as it doesn't make sense for such a simple fix.

I agree it seems like it's just a $2 part and a simple fix but it's a new boat that shouldn't have this issue. All of our stuff under the seats got soaked, phones, keys, purses etc... I then have to spend hours cleaning it (salt water),remove everything, take the boat off of the lift and take it to the dealership. The dealership had the boat almost as long as I had it in my possession. I get the boat back to find that the repair shop scratched up the pad on the swim platform and the anchor locker grommet looks like it was done by a blind man with no arms. I know this part isn't yamahas fault but it's a vicious chain of events that causes a lot of frustration.
Another small issue but annoying is that the anchor locker wouldn't latch. It's an easy fix but how do these things pass right through inspection? I wonder what else is wrong with the boat that I don't know about or where the salt water got to that's going to cause premature problems down the road.

 

[Reefdonkey]

@MrMoose and @Reefdonkey have you had other issues besides the missing inner grommet on your boats? I understand the aggravation that this missing grommet has caused, but on its own it shouldn't result in a "wish I'd bought a different boat" response....I think there must be more to your stories than just this item.....

One of the other factors in the equation is the dealer and dealer prep. Many people pay a lot of money for dealer prep (I paid $1200) and I expected and got a full day's worth of 2 people's time making sure all the systems on my boat were in perfect working order when my boat arrived. Boats are shipped on trailers and don't have their own suspensions (the boats-not the trailers)- and as such take a certain amount of unusual vibration at a 45% angle usually-that typically is not normal....so having the dealer check it out upon arrival is an important part of getting a boat. If the dealer skips this...or does a poor job....then that sucks too.

All of that said....I too have been in QA, and would love to see bullet proof quality on every boat.....but I'm not going to have a coronary over a missing $2? grommet. But I would make sure it is taken care of by the dealer...and again...as I paid a lot for their dealer prep, they won't begrudge it as it doesn't make sense for such a simple fix.

This is the dealer fix. the silicone doesn't even make contact with the grommet in some places

 

[MrMoose]

It's like death by a thousand cuts.

 

[SeanPC]

@MrMoose could you elaborate on what the hard ones and easy ones were. Quite a few members here seem to notice water in the bilge and can't figure out where it is coming from. I will certainly be checking my inner anchor locker when the shrink wrap comes off as a precaution. I think that @OUT ON THE REEF may have discovered the root source of bilge water woes for many a member regardless of model. I think the issue this thread is dedicated to could certainly be a common source but curious as to what other ones you are aware of?

The first two times I took my boat out, pulled the drain plug and what I'd consider to be an excessive amount of water drained out (several gallons). One of the those times it was just my wife and I out on smooth water for about 2 hours. We didn't even step on the back platform let alone drag any water in. I then plugged the anchor locker drain (from the outside and inside) before hand to see if that was the issue and went out a third time. Got back on land and pulled the plug and it drained at full capacity for 61 seconds. I was shocked as I've never seen this much water empty from any boat I've ever owned.

I noticed several large gaps between the bilge access cover seal and the fiberglass it's screwed to so I caulked that. Went back out for a couple hours, got back and pulled the plug and drained at 3/4 - 1/2 capacity for ~15 seconds. Went back out again with 6 people in rough conditions (sustained 20 mph winds - gusts to 35) same result. One of these days I'm going to elevate the tongue and fill the bilge with water to see if there are any other small leaks.

Other issues that need to be fixed/looked at under warranty

• Port side trailer fender shakes at low speed (bias ply issue?)
• Transom Stereo remote condensation
• Initial test drive - GPS didn't work (no speedo or long/lat, etc). I haven't experienced the issue since.

 

[MrMoose]

@SeanPC
Regarding the shaky fender, it may be that you only have one hoppy tire on the left side. There's a thread dedicated to the issue:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/bouncy-shorelandr-trailer-carlisle-stands-behind-their-product.10916/
I'm not sure how it's being handled by Shoreland'r/Carlisle/Yamaha right now, but it's a known problem. If you don't get anywhere with your dealer and want to isolate the problem, knowing that your right side tires are good, swap them (one at a time) with the left side until the right side starts shaking, then you know which tire is bad, then try swapping that bad on with your spare. ... all of that assumes that only one of the left side tires are bad, not both.
Regarding your water issue, it sounds like you have more than one leak. I've listed a bunch of mine in past posts. Off the top of my head: helm cup holder drain (missing), swim platform cup holder drain (disconnected by dealer), clean-out tubes with loose/missing lower clamps, clean-out tubes with missing silicon on the top where it connects to the apron, clean-out apron missing silicon where it mates to the deck, clean-out access hatch flange (between the clean-out ports) not sealed, scupper hull fitting missing silicon (slow 15 drops per minute), and the big one was drive shafts both leaking (suspected bad/poorly applied silicon sealant) engine rpm/speed had a big impact on the amount of water that found its way in via the drive shaft leaks. Also, I know that the clean-out apron drain tube is a possible spot for water to come in because lots of water will splash up into it when you're in reverse. I didn't have a problem with the drain tube itself, but because water was working its way up the tube onto my clean-out apron, it would then drip down into my bilge because my apron and clean-out tubes weren't properly sealed. My guess is that you have a big leak that is located below the water line and other smaller ones located above the water line... sinking by a thousand leaks.

 

[SeanPC]

@MrMoose - Were you able to diagnose the drive shaft leak or did the dealer do that? I suspect you're correct that there's a below the water line leak. Regardless, it's going back to the dealership soon so I can get them to look at it and address the other issues. Nothing like a 6 hour round trip to drop it off..

Good idea about the trailer tire swap, I'll give that a try.

 

[MrMoose]

Don't worry @SeanPC ... as the sayin' goes, "they all leak". I think that there are three types of Yamaha boat owners. 1. Those like you and I who notice that there's a leak, find it unacceptable, and get it fixed. 2. Those who know that they have a leak and are happy that their bilge pump works. 3. Those who don't realize that they have a leak that should be fixed because they're told that it's normal.
Ok, so the water was finding its way into the bilge area at the stern, below the swim deck on my boat, which isn't surprising as it's the lowest point. My first step was to open the clean-out access hatch and puff baby powder into the transom/bilge section of the boat from the inside of the deck surface down to the bottom of the bilge, everything was covered with a light dusting. Then I took the boat out on a nice day with no waves and no rain. I ran it for 3 minutes, then pulled it out, brought it directly to the dealership and told them to open up the clean-out apron and look for water tracks in the baby powder. They started where the water had pooled and then looked around and up from there. It only took them about 10 minutes to see the leak on the port shaft fittings. They didn't think to look at the starboard side... which had the same problem, that I had to point out to them after it took them 3 months to fix the port side, but I digress.