Next Stereo upgrade?

[4x15mph]

I added an amp last season (4 channel, 75x4) and upgraded the 4 OEM speakers to Polk 6.5 MM1 series. The sound is much better than the stock

I would like to keep going on this and think a subwoofer with separate amp might be the next step or would I get better sound by adding wake tower speakers? I am thinking the waketower speakers would focus on the rear sound versus all around in-cabin sound. I also think that I could use the crossover with the sub to fine tune what I have now....

1) What do you think and any good recommendations on a somewhat plug and play, sub and amp? Can I do this without adding a sub box or would that be a big compromise and defeat adding the sub?
2) Should I focus more on adding 2 more in-cabin speakers to take this from 4 speakers to 6? I am thinking I should do that regardless and I would probably run the 2 new speakers in parallel on 1 of the channels of my 4 channel. Suggestions on placement given I have the OEM AR210 setup (2 speakers in the bow, 2 in the cabin)

 

[redthumper9]

Depending on the amp you already have, there is a good chance you can add the additional 2 mid-cabin speakers to the same amp. Two of the channels would just be running 2 ohm. Mid cabin speakers in these boats make a world of difference. You sound like someone who just wants good sound and is not trying to be the loudest guy on the lake. I'd go with a IB sub like JL's popular 10" and get an amp for it. Vented enclosures for subs sound better and have higher output, but at the cost of space.... And you typically still have to cut a vent in the fiberglass.

 

[4x15mph]

Depending on the amp you already have, there is a good chance you can add the additional 2 mid-cabin speakers to the same amp. Two of the channels would just be running 2 ohm. Mid cabin speakers in these boats make a world of difference. You sound like someone who just wants good sound and is not trying to be the loudest guy on the lake. I'd go with a IB sub like JL's popular 10" and get an amp for it. Vented enclosures for subs sound better and have higher output, but at the cost of space.... And you typically still have to cut a vent in the fiberglass.

I have an MB Quart 4 channel, 75 RMWx4 currently.

I do just want decent sound. Is this subwoofer an option or would it require an enclosure? Polk Audio MM 1042 SVC MM1 Series 10" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield

Would adding a 2 channel amp be a good idea and allow for connecting in tower speakers later? Otherwise, should I go with a mono amp?

Would it work to install on the side of the captains seat or will it be better placement in the STBD rear seat compartment?

 

[redthumper9]

I have an MB Quart 4 channel, 75 RMWx4 currently.

I do just want decent sound. Is this subwoofer an option or would it require an enclosure? Polk Audio MM 1042 SVC MM1 Series 10" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield

Would adding a 2 channel amp be a good idea and allow for connecting in tower speakers later? Otherwise, should I go with a mono amp?

Would it work to install on the side of the captains seat or will it be better placement in the STBD rear seat compartment?

That sub would require an enclosure. If I were doing an IB sub (infinite baffle), I'd go with either JL or Wetsounds. The amp you currently have could feasibly run 6 in boats and the towers, but would be grossly unpowered. If adding an amp for the sub, yes a mono amp would be best. Maybe do the sub and mid cabins now. Once you are ready to do towers, either get rid of the 4 channel you have and go with a 6 channel, or add a third amp.

 

[4x15mph]

That sub would require an enclosure. If I were doing an IB sub (infinite baffle), I'd go with either JL or Wetsounds. The amp you currently have could feasibly run 6 in boats and the towers, but would be grossly unpowered. If adding an amp for the sub, yes a mono amp would be best. Maybe do the sub and mid cabins now. Once you are ready to do towers, either get rid of the 4 channel you have and go with a 6 channel, or add a third amp.

Excellent plan and will follow.... recommendation on a value Mono amp for the JL/Wetsounds woofer?

Placement of the sub? Right of the captains or rear STBD seat storage?

Thank you!

 

[redthumper9]

Check out where others have installed for sub placement. I'm not incredibly familiar with the ins and outs of the 210 models. The amps are arguably the most important part of any stereo system.... Sort of like the engine in your car. You don't have to go all out, but I'd stick with the big names. Rockford, Kicker and Polk are more budget friendly than JL and Wetsounds.

 

[ripler]

I have a 2010 SX210 and put my 10" IB behind the captain's chair in the stbd storage. I run all Rockford Fosgate amps and interior speakers. I have a 600W amp running 4 interior speakers and the sub, I also have Wetsounds REV 8 on my tower and they are running from another 600W amp.

 

[4x15mph]

I have a 2010 SX210 and put my 10" IB behind the captain's chair in the stbd storage. I run all Rockford Fosgate amps and interior speakers. I have a 600W amp running 4 interior speakers and the sub, I also have Wetsounds REV 8 on my tower and they are running from another 600W amp.

- How many channels are each of your amps?
- What sub are you using? Any vibration?

 

[4x15mph]

Ordered the JL MX300 mono amp and a JL 10" sub. I only see the option of installing this to the right of the captains chair since the rear seat compartments have curves/levels that will not fit a 10-12" sub. I think this is the only install option for the new design.

3 day delivery from Crutchfield. I like their 60 day return and support

 

[4x15mph]

Check out where others have installed for sub placement. I'm not incredibly familiar with the ins and outs of the 210 models. The amps are arguably the most important part of any stereo system.... Sort of like the engine in your car. You don't have to go all out, but I'd stick with the big names. Rockford, Kicker and Polk are more budget friendly than JL and Wetsounds.

I could use some help with wiring. I need to figure out the cabling. Right now I have an 8 AWG pos and neg running up to the helm from the battery where I have the 1st amp already (75x4). I want to put this second amp right by the 1st amp in the helm (300 watt x1).

1) Not sure if I can just put a bus in the helm and run 8 awg to both amps or whether I now have to rewire from the battery replacing the 8awg with 0 or 2 awg?

2) if I can use a bus, which I expect I should do regardless of whether I need to run a new main feed to the helm, should I use a bus bar or can I use a fuse block (bus).

any links to recommendations is helpful

 

[JDRacing]

My $.02 on the gauge question is that you can try using the existing 8 gauge to a bus to run the amps and see how it works, since it's simple. I'm almost certain you'd be better off with 0 AWG to the bus and then 4 AWG to each amp from there. But you could try it the easy way first, and maybe you'll be ok with it. If not, run some 0 to the bus and some 4 to the amps. If you're not into playing the music loud, you might get away with the 8.

Also, think about the future. I'm guessing, if you're like the rest of us, this won't be the end of it. And you'll soon be thinking about mid cabin speakers, as @redthumper9 suggested, and then tower speakers, and then swim deck speakers, and then, and then . . . . That means another amp, and at that point your 8 gauge will really be insufficient. So, maybe just do the 0 gauge-to-bus wiring now (it's not that hard) and be done with it. Power to future amps will be easy at that point.

I'll leave others to respond to your second question--my amps are in or near the battery compartment and each runs straight to the house battery through a separate fuse block.

Jeff

 

[4x15mph]

My $.02 on the gauge question is that you can try using the existing 8 gauge to a bus to run the amps and see how it works, since it's simple. I'm almost certain you'd be better off with 0 AWG to the bus and then 4 AWG to each amp from there. But you could try it the easy way first, and maybe you'll be ok with it. If not, run some 0 to the bus and some 4 to the amps. If you're not into playing the music loud, you might get away with the 8.

Also, think about the future. I'm guessing, if you're like the rest of us, this won't be the end of it. And you'll soon be thinking about mid cabin speakers, as @redthumper9 suggested, and then tower speakers, and then swim deck speakers, and then, and then . . . . That means another amp, and at that point your 8 gauge will really be insufficient. So, maybe just do the 0 gauge-to-bus wiring now (it's not that hard) and be done with it. Power to future amps will be easy at that point.

I'll leave others to respond to your second question--my amps are in or near the battery compartment and each runs straight to the house battery through a separate fuse block.

Jeff

Thank you. I ordered some 4awg for now and this should still support one more amp for 2 mid cabin speakers but for what I want, I think these extra 2 amps and subwoofer will do it. I probably should have installed by the battery but I have a 210 and that storage is highly prized.

equipment showed up and I might never buy anything other than JL audio again.

 

[white2kstang]

I came to the same conclusion on JL and just spend the money the first time now.

You may read this article to calculate total draw on the wires from the amps and what an OFC wire can handle based on the the run distance using the chart.

How to calculate the best wire gauge for your car amplifier

How to determine the best size wire for your amp's power and ground

www.crutchfield.com

I did run 2ga to a fused block for my two amps and a separate 4ga for an under helm blue seas 12 port fuse block.

 

[Sotally Tober]

Excellent plan and will follow.... recommendation on a value Mono amp for the JL/Wetsounds woofer?

Placement of the sub? Right of the captains or rear STBD seat storage?

Thank you!

Here is a link to my old 2013 212SS stereo set up. I believe the layout of your 2018 hasn't change much since 2013.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/sotally-tobers-sound-system.418/page-3#post-51442

 

[Tommy Bierly]

I added two JL - 10” subs...one under the throttles and one under starboard rear seats. The fiberglass by the throttles had to be re-enforced because the sub was causing it to flex.

also added 10” powered bazooka tube up front (I originally didn’t want to cut holes...I got over that).
Finally, added two Rev10s to the tower.
System rocks. But I still want more...i have a problem.

 

[4x15mph]

Install pretty complete other than some wire organizing. The board I used has plenty of room for any more upgrades but this may be it for awhile.

 

[shar]

Install pretty complete other than some wire organizing. The board I used has plenty of room for any more upgrades but this may be it for awhile.

looks good, but how does it sound!

 

[4x15mph]

looks good, but how does it sound!

It sounds great from what I can tell in my yard but I really have to try it on the water where I can turn it up. I might get to try it tomorrow at some point

 

[Tommy Bierly]

Boom! I installed one in the same location. When you turn it up, check to see if you can see the fiberglass flexing. Mine was flexing like crazy...which was robbing me from bass. My sound guy went in and re-enforced the wall and now it booms.

 

[4x15mph]

Boom! I installed one in the same location. When you turn it up, check to see if you can see the fiberglass flexing. Mine was flexing like crazy...which was robbing me from bass. My sound guy went in and re-enforced the wall and now it booms.

tested it on the water and it booms pretty good up to the point where I have to lower the boom/gain. I am happy with how it turned out. I wish I had a sound guy ....