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Octane rating for winterization

4x15mph

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Yamaha
Year
2018
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AR
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Well, that is why adding fuel stabilizer is a very good idea for long-term storage.

I will take 87 octane with stabilizer over 93 octane (E10) without everyday and twice on Sunday.

 
I top off the tank with 91 non ethanol, which I use all summer, from the marina or driving to 1 of the gas stations in the area that sells 91 ethanol free. And for 6mos. of storage+/- I will add some SeaFoam to the fuel.
 
The higher octane is on top of fuel stabilizer for sure! I use Stabil “storage” version
 
As mentioned, it's not the octane rating folks are looking for, it's the lack of ethanol for storage.

So why many get the impression they need higher octane is because in most places, to get away from ethanol, they have to buy high octane. So don't let it confuse you, get what ever you can without ethanol. If you can't get no ethanol, be sure your fuel stabilizer treats for ethanol as well.

Either way, the fuel needs to be stabilized. And a person should be doing this while burning the last tank, not after the season is done. The whole idea is to get fuel stabilizer in the entire fuel system and not just the tank. In the last few weeks of the season, I start dropping SeaFoam into the tank. Then calculate what I will be storing it with and add the appropriate amount based on what is in the tank.

Good luck. It's not rocket science, and truly no wrong answers, just better ones. (smile)
 
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I normally use 87 octane during season but will be using a higher octane for winterization. In case this helps anyone that is getting ready to winterize. I am sure this could be well debated but I will move up to 91/92 for now.

Here is an example of information I have read: https://www.sunocoracefuels.com/tech-article/octane-stability-high-octane-vs-low-octane-fuels

Don't waste your money...store with a full tank of 87 octane (w/o ethanol if available) and stabilizer. It's not about the octane, it's about keeping the gas from separating over time.
 
As mentioned, it's not the octane rating folks are looking for, it's the lack of ethanol for storage.

So why many get the impression they need higher octane is because in most places, to get away from ethanol, they have to buy high octane. So don't let it confuse you, get what every you can without ethanol. If you can't get no ethanol, be sure your fuel stabilizer treats for ethanol as well.

Either way, the fuel needs to be stabilized. And a person should be doing this while burning the last tank, not after the season is done. The whole idea is to get fuel stabilizer in the entire fuel system and not just the tank. In the last few weeks of the season, I start dropping SeaFoam into the tank. Then calculate what I will be storing it with and add the appropriate amount based on what is in the tank.

Good luck. It's not rocket science, and truly no wrong answers, just better ones. (smile)
Yes. But Seafoam is more of a "cleaner" than stabilizer, isn't it? It has three ingredients including isopropyl alcohol, and probably doesn't do much to prevent fuel oxidation (which is sped up by ethanol and water - in E10).

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Yes. But Seafoam is more of a "cleaner" than stabilizer, isn't it? It has three ingredients including isopropyl alcohol, and probably doesn't do much to prevent fuel oxidation (which is sped up by ethanol and water - in E10).

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I use it because it works. I don't know the chemistry, but it claims to stabilize and control moisture.

20180507_112729.jpg
 
Octane degrades over time so I step up to higher rating for storage.

Definitely understand the merits of going non-ethanol, using stabilizer, and having a full tank. I add to that, the use of a higher octane.

I don’t use sea foam and went in circles when researching. I use stabil
 
That's why both have been around for so damn many years. Folks use what has worked for them for "X" years and stick with it. Seafoam and Stabil formulas have not changed for years and they understood they needed to step up their game. So many have released Marine versions, and versions specifically to address the concerns with Ethanol. Stabil 360 is designed for marine applications and addresses Ethanol. (at least on the label) I honestly think they both have such a cult following of their original products, that they don't dare change them, but just add new products to compliment them. It may be the same stuff in both bottles, with different labels for all we know.

But to this day, their original formulas outsell most. I agree with Swatski as it is a cleaner, and I find myself using it during the season as well in smaller amounts. But at the end of the season, it's about an ounce/gallon in the tank. I still use stabil engine fogger on my two stroke engines, only for the reason that is what I have used for so many years. But honestly, almost any fogging oil would do the same thing.
 
Yes. But Seafoam is more of a "cleaner" than stabilizer, isn't it? It has three ingredients including isopropyl alcohol, and probably doesn't do much to prevent fuel oxidation (which is sped up by ethanol and water - in E10).

--

This is actually a good point, as one ingredient is more of a reactive component, where the others are pro-active. You are adding it for two reasons, to hopefully stop the water separation, and then deal with it once it happens.

When I left a gas cap off my boat prior to a rain storm (yup stupid move) I had to deal with potential water in my fuel tank. Rather than pump it out, I had plenty of good advice that these engines can all burn a certain amount of water as designed. Iso is what breaks down the water molecules into a form that can be passed through the combustion chamber.

So yes, that is the purpose of the Iso in these stabilizers. The others are there to help prevent it. Together they are a stabilizing tag team. And this is true in both Seafoam and Stabil. (as claimed on their labels anyway)
 
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