OEM Stereo on 2011 242 limited s Question

[OhioCop]

I just purschased my boat a few months ago and also purschased a Pyle Marine 2000 watt 6 channel amp. I have two questions, 1 do you think that amp will work well with the stock oem speakers, subwoffer and tweeters? #2 the stereo has an option to use your ipod by placing it directlly into the unit, What ipod do I need to purschase to make that work? Whis ipod would be best?

 

[David Analog]

Sometimes you need a pro in your corner.
The Pyle PLMRA620 is not a 2000 watt amplifier. "MAX" power is totally unqualified and means absolutely nothing. Similar to JBF or WLS ratings...."Just Before Fire" or "When Lightning Strikes".
The RMS rating is actually stated as 1100 total watts. This is a Class AB amplifier running 80 amps of total fusing. So even 1100 watts is also highly unlikely.
But it is still a fairly large 6-channel amplifier maybe in the 600 watt category.
A Class AB amplifier consumes twice the supply wattage that it outputs under favorable conditions. Even less efficiency at 2-ohms stereo or 4-ohms bridged. So not a good choice for a Yamaha with dual 14 amp stators. Keep in mind that boat operations alone take a significant portion of the boat's charging system output.
If you gain the amplifier correctly and set the amplifier active crossovers correctly the factory speakers will be okay until you make a speaker upgrade.

 

[OhioCop]

Thanks for the info Dave. What amp do you suggest as being a good amp? I know nothing about amps so I appreciate your input. And do u have any idea about what ipod is compatable withe the oem raido?

 

[GiddYupJoe]

@OhioCop any older iPod/iPhone with the 30pin plug on the bottom will work. Any iPhone prior to the iphone5.

 

[OhioCop]

Thanks Joe

 

[Ronnie]

David knows the acoustics far better than I but you and I may have the same amp. Here is a pic of the 6 channel pyle amp I bought for my boat last year but haven't yet had the time to install. Is it as good as a JBL or other high end amp, probably not. Will it be an improvement to the sound quality of the stock system, I think so. My intention is just to be able to hear it more clearly while underway without having to set the volume past the midpoint and hear the noise that comes with doing so. I don't tend to blast the music at anchor so I shouldn't be killing the house battery by adding the amp. With the dual battery system in the boat I'm not really concerned since I can always combine the batteries if I need to. To David's last statement, I know I'm going to have to replace the stock speakers soon since one already pops/clicks when I turn the volume up past the half way point.

Something to keep in mind: I've read but not verified that the stock head unit only has four channels. The front channels power the bow speakers. The rear channels power the cockpit and swim deck speakers and the cross-over tweeters in the tower are connected to the cockpit speakers. My plan is to power the cockpit and swim deck speakers separately, so 2 channels of 6 will power the bow speakers, the second set of 2 will power the cockpit speakers and tower tweeters and the third set will power the swim deck speakers.

As for the appropriate ipod, anything with the original flat long connector. That is the one that charges the 1st and second generation ipads as well as the iphones up through the 4S. An original ipod should work too as well as the first few generations of itouch devices. I used an itouch, iPhone 3 gs and iPhone 4s. You may be able to use an iPhone 5 or 6 as well but you'd need the conversion / adaptor plug. Also, regardless of what device I used, it tended to overheat a few hours into the day. It ended up being easier to use an aux. 3.5mm cable to connect the phone to the stereo. Some use blue tooth devices so that crew or passengers can control the music from their devices and from wherever they are sitting in the boat. I like the concept but just haven't had time to shop for one yet.

 

[OhioCop]

Ronnie,
That is the same amp. I should have mine hooked up this weekend. Ill let u know how it sounds. Thanks for the info.
Jim

 

[Ronnie]

I'd like to know where you will install it. I'm thinking on the shelf over the driver's legs. I took some measurements of the area and it will fit there although tightly. I'd have to run power lines to the battery but that location should cut down on the speaker wiring/rewiring that would be needed.

 

[David Analog]

Ideally you should have a Class D amplifier that is 60% more efficient.
When you return to dock or trailer, allow time (perhaps an hour or two) for the higher charging voltage to dissipate. Then measure the resting and true voltage. If you arrive after a long and typical outing with a 12.7 volt level then you are fine with what you have for your particular usage. If not then you need to remedy this.

 

[MikeyL]

Thanks for the info Dave. What amp do you suggest as being a good amp? I know nothing about amps so I appreciate your input. And do u have any idea about what ipod is compatable withe the oem raido?

The BEST choices, altho fairly "pricey," are my fav JL Audio, and also many here love WetSounds.
However, that is NOT NECESSARY. You can get GREAT performance, from a NON-Marine amp (as long as you do not boat is salt water - and mount the amp in a totally DRY location - like behind the helm). An excellent choice here is Rockford-Fosgate. Look for great pricing on the web, and make sure Amazon is part of your investigation. GLad you're with us, and good luck. This is not difficult, but make SURE you hook this up with 100% oxygen-free copper power cabling, at least 4 gauge (normally use the gauge specified by the amp manufacturer for the specific model you are buying).

A note here is worthy regarding AMP POWER WIRING: People always wanna tell about the BIG AMP they have purchased and then wire it with CRAP wiring.

Buy good wiring for your amp! Don’t be fooled by the “to good to be true” deals on amp wire kits. Oxygen free copper (OFC) is king! The price of copper has gone through the roof and along with it, quality amp kits have risen in price.

Beware of CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) kits. These kits are composed of a center conductor of Aluminum and an outer ring of copper. Copper is an infinitely better conductor of electricity than aluminum. In some cases a 4 gauge CCA cable will carry less current than an 8 gauge OFC kit.

• If you can't do it just take it to a trained professional. They know what they're doing and they won't blow up your unit or car.

Best Wishes and good Luck - Mikey Lulejian - Lake Oconee, GA

 

[MikeyL]

Here is an EXCELLENT write up on car amplifiers with useful tips !
I sincerely hope it of good use for many - Good Luck to all, Mikey Lulejian - Lake Oconee, GA

http://www.mobileedgeonline.com/7-things-to-consider-when-buying-a-car-audio-amplifier/