oil change every season or when its needed?????

[flyingnugget]

Ok everyone, got a question.

Just finished changing the oil, spark plugs and filters on my my 242LS.... and I gotta say I'm a bit torn right now.
I have had this 2014 242LS since new and have never had to add a drop of oil any year. When I check the oil its as clean as when I put it in. It drives me crazy to drain and replenish oil each year/season. I know its not expensive but seems that it can be monitored and changed as needed.

Now the plugs seems to need it each year even though the engines have never run rough or had any issues. When I pull them they look used but not bad.

I guess what I'm trying to ask is, does everyone change the oil each year? I know the conservative thing to do is to change it but it seems wasteful and just unnecessary since its clean and I haven't burned any in 5 years... (knock on wood)

I put about 30-45hrs year on the engines and only fresh water.

What ya got? I know this is going to be a personal choice reply but just curious.

 

[GiddYupJoe]

Changing the oil on the last trip out in the fall provides me some personal time with my boat before I put her away for the winter. And it’s easy and cheap. You can probably get away without but why risk it on such an investment?

 

[Robo]

I didnt change mine last yr for the same reason low hrs .i dont think it will hurt as long as its good clean oil not over the recommended hrs

 

[Bluewater272]

Annually or at specified hours, whichever comes first. 45/hrs a year is right about to the 50hr oil change interval anyway.

 

[seadude]

IMO synthetic oil with less than 50 hours on it that still looks clean? I'd let it go another season.
Otherwise, cheap insurance to change end of every season.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

I have been told over and over that oil does not go bad it just gets dirty. I always changed oil every 50 hours but now I check it and as long as it is clean I don't change it, this usually gets me to around 70 hours, I do change the filter every time and cover it with aluminum tape to keep the filter from rusting, bringing up the other point. Oil filters have a reputation of failing "from rust around the crimp" so the longer between oil changes the longer the filter has to rust, so always inspect your filter for those who run in salt water especially. Remember to check your oil each outing inspect the hose clamps you can see those rust and look for any other issues in the engine compartment while you are in there checking the oil.

 

[afsigma21]

Changing your oil every year is just another reason to open the engine cover and poke around, maybe you notice something else amiss before it becomes a bigger problem....

 

[Rustynuts]

I change the oil at the end of each season/year on every toy or low use vehicle I own, it’s cheap insurance. The oil from simply sitting in the engine will deplete its additives and eventually turn acidic (not good) Because of the potential for condensation and acid buildup especially in a boat why take a chance.....just because it still looks clean doesn’t mean it’s not doing any damage.

 

[flyingnugget]

Thanks Guys! I was just curious. Totally agree its cheap insurance and I do like your point @Rustynuts about the additives etc... Great points actually everyone. Like I said I knew this would be a personal choice but I was just curious and thought maybe it was over kill.

Now to finish up the waxing and get ready for the new SeaDek install Monday! Can NOT WAIT TO SEE how it looks!

Thanks Y'all...

 

[Liveto99]

The 210 FSH I had the dealer do the 10 hour change my dealer said bring it back when I hit 100 hours? 90hour oil change interval?
I just think keep a record for the YES warranty, I’m going to go with what they say till it’s up. THEN full synthetic every 50 hours or every year. It always helps to have good lube?

 

[scokill]

I have been told over and over that oil does not go bad it just gets dirty. I always changed oil every 50 hours but now I check it and as long as it is clean I don't change it, this usually gets me to around 70 hours, I do change the filter every time and cover it with aluminum tape to keep the filter from rusting, bringing up the other point. Oil filters have a reputation of failing "from rust around the crimp" so the longer between oil changes the longer the filter has to rust, so always inspect your filter for those who run in salt water especially. Remember to check your oil each outing inspect the hose clamps you can see those rust and look for any other issues in the engine compartment while you are in there checking the oil.

Brings up another reason to change the plugs every year....less worry about a plug seizing and breaking off in head. I guess that problem has gone away with the MR1, but even with anti-seize use it makes me feel better to just replace them....and as someone else mentioned, a reason to poke around in the engine

 

[Dixie Highway]

As much as I agree with the principle I don’t think I’d ever use anti seize on a spark plug in an aluminum head. It plays havoc with torque specs and heat transfer into the head from the plug. Lots of horror stories about over and under torqued plugs, stripped threads, etc. Best insurance is break them free once in a while and retorque.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

I have thousands of hours on 1800 engines with never seize on the plugs. I never torque the plugs I put them in by feel only. Never had an issue. but you are correct that if you use a torque wrench it could be bad

 

[Speedling]

I always change the oil with the quick suction i get with a hand pump. Usually need just under 3 quarts. Then change filters and top of on water.
Take out the iridium plugs and inspect. Replace as necessary

 

[scokill]

As much as I agree with the principle I don’t think I’d ever use anti seize on a spark plug in an aluminum head. It plays havoc with torque specs and heat transfer into the head from the plug. Lots of horror stories about over and under torqued plugs, stripped threads, etc. Best insurance is break them free once in a while and retorque.

12 years never heard an issue with undertorqued plug or stripped thread in MR1 engine. A consistent issue that's been reported is plug breaking off in #3 cylinder of MR1 engines. Caution is on that front. Haven't hear any overtorque issues on MR1 either with tons of folks using anti seize. I'm the same as Jeff doing it by feel. It's worked for me and not changing. I'm on 12 seasons with MR1, over 500 hrs no issues, 200K miles on Suburban, just traded Lexus just shy of 300K miles, 150K on Chevy Colorado, all doing my own work and maintenance.

However, I don't have any issues with different perspectives and what works for other folks. If I hadn't heard and seen reports specific to MR1 then I wouldn't even have thought or considered anti seize.

 

[Jores]

I'm with Jeff here- I just use "hand feel". That said anti seize will lower the torque if using a torque wrench and could lead to over tightening. I change oil at 50hrs, per Yamaha, and I use Yamaha lube and Yamaha filters. Not sure why but Yamaha doesn't want friction inhibitors used in there engines- which all synthetic oils use.

 

[Gym]

As much as I agree with the principle I don’t think I’d ever use anti seize on a spark plug in an aluminum head. It plays havoc with torque specs and heat transfer into the head from the plug. Lots of horror stories about over and under torqued plugs, stripped threads, etc. Best insurance is break them free once in a while and retorque.

If you're breaking your plugs free, then reinstalling them your tongue specs will be different because you compressed your spark plug gasket on the first install. Reinstalling on a compressed gasket will be different. I'm with @Cobra Jet Steering LLC. Anti seize the plug threads and torque by feel. Has worked for this salty dawg for 8 seasons now. I do use T-9 spray on the oil filter crimp instead of the aluminum tape as Jeff does because I use too much aluminum tape on my tin foil hats so the government & aliens can't read my mind.

 

[Scoop]

Speaking of oil change intervals. I am already at 50 hours since a March oil and filter change and will probably go another 10-15 this season. The oil is still so clean that it is hard to determine the level. I am debating changing it now but that seems foolish and I am thinking another 10-15 hours on 5 month old oil and filters is no big deal. I saw Jeff extneds to about 70 and he seems to know as much about this as anybody - any contrarian views on this?

This brings up another issue - If you are putting a lot of hours on your boat, say 100 hours in a summer, is there a synthetic oil which could extend the oil change interval or is 50-75 the maximum even if you boat that much in 3 months. OBTW - I have never boated this much in my life and am really enjoying it.

Thoughts on oil change intervals for high usage?

Thanks.

 

[afsigma21]

I would not change it until you're done boating this season, unless you were thinking another 50+.

I use Shell Rotella T6 5w40 and it has been great. it's full synthetic.

 

[anmut]

Speaking of oil change intervals. I am already at 50 hours since a March oil and filter change and will probably go another 10-15 this season. The oil is still so clean that it is hard to determine the level. I am debating changing it now but that seems foolish and I am thinking another 10-15 hours on 5 month old oil and filters is no big deal. I saw Jeff extneds to about 70 and he seems to know as much about this as anybody - any contrarian views on this?

This brings up another issue - If you are putting a lot of hours on your boat, say 100 hours in a summer, is there a synthetic oil which could extend the oil change interval or is 50-75 the maximum even if you boat that much in 3 months. OBTW - I have never boated this much in my life and am really enjoying it.

Thoughts on oil change intervals for high usage?

Thanks.

Same situation here. 65 hours as of today. 10 hour was done at 15 hours. So technically i'm 10 hours away from my next oil change by the manual, which will put me mid August. Boating season ends here about mid September. Do I change oil on the interval and then again in the spring, or let it ride and change it before wrapping her up for the winter. I'm leaning towards the latter.