Oil change questions for TR1 engine

[Jetti]

I have reached the 10 hrs oil change point, and have questions!!
I have an extraction pump and an empty milk jug marked with 1/2 quart lines. I have read run the engine 5-10 minutes to warm the oil, then extract the oil from the dip stick/ fill hole. Then reading online I found a blog talking about removing a hose by the oil filter and extracting the oil from this hose. With this method they say you can extract pretty much all the oil, and not just the 2 1/2 quarts as the other way. Has anyone changed the oil this way before? Some hints on the best way to change the oil on the TR1 would be helpful since it has no dipstick tube.

 

[Bruce]

Does the fill cap not have a dip stick on the bottom?

 

[Jetti]

Yes the fill cap does have a dipstick on the bottom of it. Inside the oil fill hole has multiple baffle holes you have to put the extraction tube down in each one. Sounds like a pain

 

[Jetti]

I did see on youtube, someone loosening the filter and pulling the spark plugs, then cranking the engine to pump oil out into the bilge area and draining it out the back. I will not crank the engine to change oil. And the mess

 

[Bruce]

The typical oil change for Yamaha marine engines is to stick the oil sucker into the fill hole, suck out a few quarts, change the oil filter then top up with the same amount of oil that you removed.

There are ways to remove all the oil on other Yamaha engines but the standard practice is to perform a partial oil change once a year. I do not see any need to do more.

 

[Jetti]

The typical oil change for Yamaha marine engines is to stick the oil sucker into the fill hole, suck out a few quarts, change the oil filter then top up with the same amount of oil that you removed.

There are ways to remove all the oil on other Yamaha engines but the standard practice is to perform a partial oil change once a year. I do not see any need to do more.

Wouldn't doing a complete oil change instead of a partial eliminate the need for the ring free additive. Less caron build up and added lubrication.

 

[R J Ruhl]

 

[R J Ruhl]

This is the best way. Easy to follow. Pulled all 3.5L out.

 

[CarolinaJet]

The manual for my boat w TR1s states that you should extract from those two places and you re-add in two places,. I’ve gotten out about 3.5 each time, add the same back. Definitely keep scavenging if you haven’t gotten around that much, you’ll find more.

Don’t overfill, you want to stay around 1/2 on the dip stick.

one more tip: pop a hole in the top of the old filter before you finish extraction, that way most of the oil will drain out of it and it won’t make a mess when you take it off.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thanks for posting the video!

I have a manually activated oil extractor…I’m slightly envious of the electric one he uses!

However, the oil level check procedure in the video is in conflict with what the manual says for my boat.



In the video when he is checking the oil level he just sets the dipstick on top of the threads and does not screw it in as the manual says to do, this will result in an over filled oil tank / level.

In the video he punches a hole in the oil filter as a first step, punching a hole in the top of the oil is a great tip and is recommended in the service manual, by doing this you bypass the anti drain back flap that is in the oil filter, and doing it first gives ample time for the filter to drain while you complete the oil extraction, it works great!

 

[TeenGee]

Once you remove the oil filter, you can also get a little oil out of where the oil filter sits on the engine.