Oops! Need a new impeller!

[NeoBrew]

Well, I did it. I was on a new lake and passed over a rock “sandbar”. Scuffed up the very bottom of the keel at the back. I can fix that pretty easily with some gel coat.

I also sucked up a fist sized rock into the port impeller. I was amazed that a rock that size could get in there, but it did! The boat seemed to run fine afterwards so I figured I had gotten off easy. I am on a trip right now and when I loaded the boat with gear the extent on the impeller damage was obvious. I have done some straightening and filing to get through this trip, but a new impeller is definitely needed.

Do people recommend the Yamaha impeller or is there a reason to go to aftermarket ones? The starboard one is fine, so I would only switch to aftermarket if there were performance or efficiency gains as I am sure I would want to keep them matched.

I am thinking this is a DIY repair. Doesn’t seem like rocket science. Any advice or links to threads on the topic would be appreciated.

 

[Scottintexas]

It’s easy as long as you can break impeller off the shaft that’s the hardest part

stock impeller is fine

 

[Beachbummer]

You need excellent leverage to break it free. I have a 3ft PVC pipe. I have used a 4? ft pipe in the past. It either comes off or it does not and you need more power/more leverage. It's reverse thread. Here's my set up.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Well, I did it. I was on a new lake and passed over a rock “sandbar”. Scuffed up the very bottom of the keel at the back. I can fix that pretty easily with some gel coat.

I also sucked up a fist sized rock into the port impeller. I was amazed that a rock that size could get in there, but it did! The boat seemed to run fine afterwards so I figured I had gotten off easy. I am on a trip right now and when I loaded the boat with gear the extent on the impeller damage was obvious. I have done some straightening and filing to get through this trip, but a new impeller is definitely needed.

Do people recommend the Yamaha impeller or is there a reason to go to aftermarket ones? The starboard one is fine, so I would only switch to aftermarket if there were performance or efficiency gains as I am sure I would want to keep them matched.

I am thinking this is a DIY repair. Doesn’t seem like rocket science. Any advice or links to threads on the topic would be appreciated.

The stock impeller is fine, and in my opinion you would not want to mix and match an aftermarket impeller with your stock one. As long as you are getting rated rpm’s at wide open throttle then there’s no reason to change anything.

Use this sites search engine and you’ll find threads on pulling the pumps and what materials you’ll need. If you don’t have a shop / service manual you should get one before you pull the pumps, the manual illustrates all of the materials you’ll need for this work, EPNOC grease, molybdenum disulfide grease, pump sealant, thread sealant. Also get a tap and die for the bolts to clean the factory thread sealant out of the bolt holes and off the bolts.

 

[Scottintexas]

I had problems breaking mine free, this was my answer,

https://jetboaters.net/threads/my-impeller-bearing-replacement.20256/

 

[NeoBrew]

I didn’t realize you had to take the whole shaft out. That will be a little more work than I thought. I still think I can get it done. Will be good penance to ensure I don’t do it again!

thanks for the advice, and the videos. Those will help a lot. I do have the service manual at home. I will have to get the impeller ordered.

 

[TeenGee]

I had problems breaking mine free, this was my answer,

https://jetboaters.net/threads/my-impeller-bearing-replacement.20256/

View attachment 205875

You got a girl to do it for you?

 

[Scottintexas]

You got a girl to do it for you?

there was a poll on here and it was decided for the good of the group I was not allowed to take stuff apart anymore

( I think @Betik was the ringleader behind it ? )

 

[NeoBrew]

Ordering parts. How important is it to use Loctite 572? It looks like it is going to be a minimum of $25 + shipping for a tube of it. Is there a more available substitute? It looks like this is pipe thread sealant, but is being used on bolt threads, is that right?

Looks like I need two gaskets and an o-ring as well. I assume I need to remove the jet pump unit and then separate the impeller duct, so both gaskets would be removed in that process. Is that correct?

 

[NeoBrew]

Where did you all source the drive shaft holder? The service manual gives two numbers 90890-06519 and YB-06151. Not sure if those are the same part with different numbers? The only ones online I can find are in Europe and spendy. There are many on eBay and some on Amazon, but cannot find any with that designation. Does anyone know the diameter and number of splines? Might be able to find one that way.

 

[Dixemon]

Ive used this on the mating surfaces with good results.

Amazon.com

 

[Dixemon]

Here's the shaft holder i use for a 2020 fsh with tr1 motors. 155mm pumps. I think solas sells them.

 

[NeoBrew]

Ive used this instead of 572 on the mating surfaces with good results.

Amazon.com

Now I'm really confused. Are you using this on the mating surfaces instead of the factory gaskets? I think the service manual indicates the 572 for bolt threads.

 

[Dixemon]

Now I'm really confused. Are you using this on the mating surfaces instead of the factory gaskets? I think the service manual indicates the 572 for bolt threads.

Good observation, i was confused to which loctite he was refferencing, the locite 574, 518, and 515 for the mating surfaces is what i was thinking of . That can be replaced with the grey rtv gasket maker, atleast for me a it worked well. I stand corrected, yes, the 572 is the thread sealant for the bolts. Thanks

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Ordering parts. How important is it to use Loctite 572? It looks like it is going to be a minimum of $25 + shipping for a tube of it. Is there a more available substitute? It looks like this is pipe thread sealant, but is being used on bolt threads, is that right?

Looks like I need two gaskets and an o-ring as well. I assume I need to remove the jet pump unit and then separate the impeller duct, so both gaskets would be removed in that process. Is that correct?

Do and use what the service manual tells you to do and use and you will not have any issues. See my post #4 above.

Do get a tap and die for the bolts and the bolt holes, including the one small bolt on each pump housing.

You do not need the gaskets or the O rings for the pump housing, that is what the loc tite gasket maker stuff is for.

You will also need a torque wrench for tightening the bolts, they are steel bolts going into an aluminum transom plate, you DO NOT want to over tighten these bolts.

If you have not inspected the cones before you will want the O rings for those cones, do NOT re use the old ones, as well as epnoc grease. The cones are supposed to be checked annually or 100 hours.

This is one of the few drive systems you have to maintain on these boats, do not cut corners here and you will be happy.

If you need help sourcing the materials shoot up a flare and I will send you the links.

 

[NeoBrew]

Do and use what the service manual tells you to do and use and you will not have any issues. See my post #4 above.

Do get a tap and die for the bolts and the bolt holes, including the one small bolt on each pump housing.

You do not need the gaskets or the O rings for the pump housing, that is what the loc tite gasket maker stuff is for.

You will also need a torque wrench for tightening the bolts, they are steel bolts going into an aluminum transom plate, you DO NOT want to over tighten these bolts.

If you have not inspected the cones before you will want the O rings for those cones, do NOT re use the old ones, as well as epnoc grease. The cones are supposed to be checked annually or 100 hours.

This is one of the few drive systems you have to maintain on these boats, do not cut corners here and you will be happy.

If you need help sourcing the materials shoot up a flare and I will send you the links.

Thank you for the extra detail. I guess the one thing not to follow the manual on is the gaskets. Unfortunately I ordered those and the large o-ring from Partzilla last night. Is it really better to use liquid gasket or should I just use them since they are ordered?

I appreciate all your advice. I have all the other tools that you mentioned, including torque wrenches and taps. I've ordered the epnoc grease, etc. I'm still hoping to find a less expensive substitute for the Loctite 572, since it just appears to be thick liquid pipe thread sealant.

I had not planned to inspect the cones. I will add those o-rings (for both sides) to my order.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thank you for the extra detail. I guess the one thing not to follow the manual on is the gaskets. Unfortunately I ordered those and the large o-ring from Partzilla last night. Is it really better to use liquid gasket or should I just use them since they are ordered?

I appreciate all your advice. I have all the other tools that you mentioned, including torque wrenches and taps. I've ordered the epnoc grease, etc. I'm still hoping to find a less expensive substitute for the Loctite 572, since it just appears to be thick liquid pipe thread sealant.

I had not planned to inspect the cones. I will add those o-rings (for both sides) to my order.

I was wrong about the gaskets and O ring your boat requires them, my 2020 has the newer design which has the replaceable wear ring and does not require them. I’m sorry for the bad information.

I verified the parts differences here:

2018 Jet pump;

Partsstream | Vallely Sport & Marine | Bismarck North Dakota

Vallely Sport & Marine located in Bismarck and Minot is North Dakota's premier powersport and marine dealer, serving all of North Dakota, northern South Dakota, and eastern Montana for over 40 years. We are a Five Star Certified and Boating Industry Top 100 dealer specializing in Sales and...

www.vallelymarine.com

2020 Jet Pump;

Partsstream | Vallely Sport & Marine | Bismarck North Dakota

Vallely Sport & Marine located in Bismarck and Minot is North Dakota's premier powersport and marine dealer, serving all of North Dakota, northern South Dakota, and eastern Montana for over 40 years. We are a Five Star Certified and Boating Industry Top 100 dealer specializing in Sales and...

www.vallelymarine.com

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I looked around and can’t find the 572 in a smaller bottle / lower price.

In my search results I did find this thread by @Floridaman79 maybe he can chime in here.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/loctite-572-substitute.28408/

 

[dan144k]

I normally recomend to use a heavy amount of never seize on the impeller and drive shaft.
- search forums and use what you want.
- I had one of impellers fuse to driveshaft when I used to lockyltight white paste.

 

[NeoBrew]

Thank you for everyone's help. I made the repair last weekend and took the boat out for a run. Everything seems to have gone well. I was able to get the impeller off the shaft relatively easily. I did need to buy a new box wrench and use a 2' piece of pipe to help break it lose.

I probably should have replaced the impeller housing as well. It had some scratching and pitting from my incident. Partly because I hadn't ordered that part, and partly because it is nearly $700 I just honed the ring surface and filled in some of the bigger pits with JB weld. I intended this to be a temporary fix until I could get the part ordered, but it has performed flawlessly so far. I might just leave it that way and see what happens.

Again, thanks everyone for your help.