Polk Audio Speaker connectors???

[Julian]

I bought the Polks 651s and did the drop in replacement for the seaworthy speakers and love them, but one thing I ran into was that the Polks have one tiny connection post to hook the wires to. I just connected one side of the push on clip for now, and this has been fine for most of time, but occasionally one of my bow speakers will shake it loose. Anyone know who sells a tiny little slide on clip....or is there something obvious I'm missing that would be easier than ordering a tiny wire clip (and probably spending more in shipping than the clip costs!)

 

[David Analog]

Of course there is the metric equivalent for everything, but spade & blade connectors usually come in 1/8th, 3/16th & 1/4" sizes.
Just about every auto parts store sells these in small quantity packages. Every local car audio shop or store should have then also.

 

[GTBRMC]

I bought the Polks 651s and did the drop in replacement for the seaworthy speakers and love them, but one thing I ran into was that the Polks have one tiny connection post to hook the wires to. I just connected one side of the push on clip for now, and this has been fine for most of time, but occasionally one of my bow speakers will shake it loose. Anyone know who sells a tiny little slide on clip....or is there something obvious I'm missing that would be easier than ordering a tiny wire clip (and probably spending more in shipping than the clip costs!)

I did the same, and have not yet but expect to have issues with the more normal-sized clip coming off the miniature tab on the db651. Beside crimping the living hell out of the wire clip onto the speaker mini-tab, the proper way to make sure they don't come off is to solder the two together. IMHO. I have not yet done this, but will this season.

 

[David Analog]

I definitely like crimping, soldering and heat shrinking the new connector onto the wire harness but I'll give you some caution when soldering directly onto the speaker terminals.
Makes R & R difficult.
The speaker terminals also have the tinsel leads soldered into them. By heating the terminal you can either loosen the tinsel lead or create a cold joint. So easy does it with a pencil tip iron where you can control the temp. Torches and solder guns??? Not so comfortable.
You also do not want to heat the flexible tinsel lead, or conduct solder into the tinsel lead, in a way that would alter its compliance.
Same heat concerns with the fragile phenolic strip that connects the + & - terminals to the basket.

 

[GTBRMC]

I definitely like crimping, soldering and heat shrinking the new connector onto the wire harness but I'll give you some caution when soldering directly onto the speaker terminals.
Makes R & R difficult.
The speaker terminals also have the tinsel leads soldered into them. By heating the terminal you can either loosen the tinsel lead or create a cold joint. So easy does it with a pencil tip iron where you can control the temp. Torches and solder guns??? Not so comfortable.
You also do not want to heat the flexible tinsel lead, or conduct solder into the tinsel lead, in a way that would alter its compliance.
Same heat concerns with the fragile phenolic strip that connects the + & - terminals to the basket.

As I would expect, you said it better than I could (and did). That speaker terminal on the db651 was surprisingly small & delicate (read: flimsy)!
Very careful soldering with a small iron is the only way I would even attempt on that connection.

 

[Julian]

Of course there is the metric equivalent for everything, but spade & blade connectors usually come in 1/8th, 3/16th & 1/4" sizes.
Just about every auto parts store sells these in small quantity packages. Every local car audio shop or store should have then also.

I looked a while ago at Advance Auto Parts and didn't see any....but perhaps I'll look again....or elsewhere. Anyone know which size it is?

 

[Murf'n'surf]

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120FQS10PK/Metra-Female-Quick-Slides.html?search=Wire+terminals&tp=2610

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Should be fine with the multi pack from Crutchfield but check Parts Express to buy bulk packs of each size if needed.

http://www.parts-express.com/205-(16-14)-female-disconnect-crimp-terminal-blue-50-pcs--095-282

 

[KXCam22]

There are correct blade connectors for speakers. However, I just squeeze my regular female blade connectors with some pliers to the clip on tight. Have had no issue doing this. Sometimes if the speaker has the extra small one it is worth finding the right size. Cam.

 

[Julian]

The Polks have really tiny ones!

 

[Murf'n'surf]

The Polks have really tiny ones!

Smaller than the first one in the Crutchfield link? I've never seen one smaller on a speaker.

 

[scokill]

There are correct blade connectors for speakers. However, I just squeeze my regular female blade connectors with some pliers to the clip on tight. Have had no issue doing this. Sometimes if the speaker has the extra small one it is worth finding the right size. Cam.

I do the same thing.

 

[Julian]

I do the same thing.

This is what I did too...but one keeps vibrating off, and the post is so small and delicate its time to get the right connector so it stays put.

 

[KXCam22]

It might be easiest to solder the wire on. You could build a harness to solder on that has a normal connector 6" away. Cam.

 

[tdonoughue]

Ok, so sorry for the delayed reply, here, but I ran into the same issue.

I put the blade between the connector and the insulator (on the flat side of the connector) and got a much more solid connection. No trouble with loosening yet. Of course, I mean to go back and fix it right with the right connector someday. It is on the list. The very, very long list...

 

[TN888]

I squeezed the crimpers till my face turned red......tight enough!

 

[MikeyL]

It might be easiest to solder the wire on. You could build a harness to solder on that has a normal connector 6" away. Cam.

The CORRECT answer. Soldering is the only effective answer. It replaces connections getting loose, Getting corroded, falling off.
A FAST and effective way to insure a great sounding system. And the tools to do it right cost less than $25 if purchased effectively.
Yes you can CRIMP tighter ............ Yes ....... you can "squeeze" more ....... But WHY for a $30,000 to $60,000 boat you're proud of.
CONSIDER soldering .. It's easy and effective and if anyone needs any help, pls PM me. I'ld be happy to help.
Hey ! Get ready for a bang-up weekend starting tomorrow ! Mikey Lulejian - Lake Oconee, GA

 

[LyonsAR210]

@Julian I have some extra ones from my install...PM me your address and I'll send you some.

 

[Julian]

@Julian I have some extra ones from my install...PM me your address and I'll send you some.

Love our members!

 

[Julian]

@LyonsAR210 Installed the proper polk connectors this morning and now the bow occupants should remain happy all the time!

Also added a 12v outlet my the co-captain...so she'll have an additional charging optiion by her seat, and disconnected the stock depth finder as it appears to have completely bitten the dust over the winter. Screen is blank and it just alarms constantly. Wonder what I could put in its place???? (the spending continues!!!!!) LOL