Port engine won't start again @help

[TheGreekTitan]

[USERGROUP=9]@HELP[/USERGROUP]

Not battery, fuse, lanyard, throttle that I can tell.

Just limped in on one engine.

Port side will not even try to start, no noise, anything. Starboard starts and runs fine as far as I can tell

Gonna eat an early dinner, hoping to get back out with your help.

Thanks in advance

 

[Scottintexas]

can you hear a click on the starter when you turn the key?
What about cleanout hatch switches, that would stop the starter,

 

[4x15mph]

2x on the cleanout tray switch. Have someone hold it down and try again.

 

[Scottintexas]

https://jetboaters.net/threads/engi...engine-codes-and-battery-voltage-states.1835/

a walk thru From the FAQ

 

[TheGreekTitan]

Do not hear any click. Stood on cleanout, and manually pressed them with hatch open

 

[TheGreekTitan]

Thanks for the help so far, we'll go through all that stuff oh the link. Did not see fuse block in battery compartment, just in engine compartment. Will be my first check

 

[Gym]

Sounds like starter selenoid. Sometimes you can shock it with a fist bang to the bottom left side of the ECU box to release the stuck contacts but, if I'm correct, it will need to be replaced soon.

 

[Bruce]

The neutral position switch will also prevent the starter from engaging.

You could try swapping the wires on the neutral position switches and cleanout hatch switches to see if the problem moves from one side to the other.

I am not familiar with your model but you may have a round access port between or beside the cleanout plug cover that you can use to gain access to those wires whine likely have a quick connect fitting that you can use to swap them.

The throttles should have two screws at the back that you remove to free the plastic cover then four screws hold the throttle mechanism down. Once you remove those screws you can lift the throttle mechanism and swap the wires at the connectors.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

My money is on a blown starter fuse in the ECU box.

 

[Scottintexas]

since you have a 2015 it's strange the starter might have given up already,
how many hours do you have on the engine,
how much have you used it this year,

 

[TheGreekTitan]

Still nothing. Have tried most suggestions. Day was ruined, unfortuately.

Can't say thank you enough for all the help so far, and want you folks to know every bit of advice has been taken into consideration and acted upon, and very much appreciated.

We have very low hours on the boat. Bought last year at the end of the season as an leftover. It was used as an demo model, so it had about 5 hours on it when purchased.

The only thing we did differently this trip was attach an power inverter to hook up an bullet blender to make a couple frozen drinks. It did not work well, inverter kept throwing alarms and kicking off. Load should have been well within the means of the unit.

We swapped out a fuse that broke while trying to pull off (20 amp), and were hoping that was it, but no.

Seems like no power to the port side engine whatsoever.

Thinking about taking apart the throttle housing next.

Weird, just not sure what to do

 

[Bruce]

One more thought, you may have something stuck in the pump that is preventing it turning. You can easily pull the pump and make sure nothing is stuck in there.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

2 batteries?

 

[bronze_10]

If there is not click or bump of nothing happening at the engine it most likely is electrical. It's a relatively new boat.. maybe the started cables came loose from that one engine. Your could also use a test light at the starter while someone else hits the key and see if any fire is getting that far. If it is but there is not click or any noise at the starter then I think it would be the starter but that seems unlikely. Most likely u are not getting fire to the starter and will need to work backwards until U do... its a pita for sure!

 

[Scottintexas]

Trying to exclude easy stuff first I think before I take the throttles apart I would switch the key switches and test the cleanout hatch switch and triple check all battery cables,

As murf asked, do you have dual batteries ?

 

[txav8r]

Always asked what changed from when it was working until it wasn't. The inverter. If an engine won't turn over, no sound or starter click...

WON'T TURN OVER...
1.Fuse
2.Battery
3.Shift Lever
4.Starter Component
5.Cleanout Hatch

It is usually the simplest thing. Odds are against a starter failure as a sole source but with the inverter issue, you could have done some damage based on how it was installed and how it affected your electrical system. But simple first. Start at the top and work your way down. While your shift lever might be out of position, it could also be the neutral switch inside it causing the issue. Same with the cleanout hatch...it may not be the setting but the switch itself that failed. I think the best troubleshooting would be to start at the fuse, and check the fuse in the ECU housing in the engine compartment. DON'T JUST LOOK AT IT! Check the continuity with a multimeter and make sure full continuity exists. The battery means cables too. You need to make sure your cables from the battery (or battery switch) are tight both at the battery and the engine, and corrosion not a factor either. Next, try the key as you move the throttle slightly in neutral. A loose or out of position switch could be the issue. If not, the neutral switch in the housing itself could be bad but seems unlikely. Some have swapped them to see if the problem switches sides. With the inverter blowing fuses and not playing nice, I don't know if that could be a factor with your starter, but electrical components are subject to issues when their fields are disturbed. But in that event, I would think the fuse would have blown to protect the starter components. And lastly, the cleanout hatch...it may not just be the plunger to the switch. Pushing down that plunger is impossible with your finger. You need to place an object on it, and there are actually 4 switches in the two switches, or at least 4 things being checked by the switches. I haven't seen the new switch on the newer boat, and it may have changed a little, but basically, the hatch opening disconnects the circuit between the starter and the ignition. Again, not sure about changes from previous model years, but before, you could also swap those leads and see if it changes sides. Just my thoughts and hope that it can help salvage your weekend!

 

[TheGreekTitan]

Single battery.

While docked we did get under the dash, remove the ignition switches? and swap them. Still only starboard started.

The starter on the port engine is loose, but did not have anything to tighten it while there. I keep minimal tools on my truck. My friend was manually moving the starter while I tried to start it.

I agree that it sounds electrical, and the next move will be to take a multimeter and work my way back.

I'm still wondering if it had something to do with the power inverter. It should have been plenty powerful for the bullet. Inverter up to 800 peak, bullet draws 250.

 

[TheGreekTitan]

We did swap the hatch switches also. There is a disconnect we could reach under the wet storage

 

[bronze_10]

Starter loose? That sucks.. esp on an almost new boat. Still your friend should have been able to hear the starter spin if it was working. Go buy a cheap test light and confirm where the power stops. Sounds like the ignition switch and the clean out tray switch have been eliminated. The power must be stopping somewhere..

 

[Gym]

After hearing about the loose starter I agree with @bronze_10. The starter, being firmly bolted to the engine block provides the ground for the starter to work. I would tighten that up and make sure the hot wire to the starter is also tight (with the battery switch OFF). Then if still no start you may have a dead spot on that starter. Have everything set correctly for starting the engine, have someone hold the key in the start position while you give the starter motor a couple of blows with a hammer. I have used this process many times on cars when a starter motor was on its way out.