Purging Water From Yamaha 1052cc

[djtech2k]

I know there’s big debates about winterizing Yamaha boats so I will not ask that question directly.

Based on a lot of Reading I have done here on the subject, it seems that if you do not push antifreeze into the motor, you need to purge all the water from the lines. A guy told me that you can do it by pushing air through the water flushing ports. I’m not sure how you would do that but thought I would ask about this here.

So what is the best way to flush all the water out before cold weather?

 

[djtech2k]

Does anyone do this or know how to do this? I saw on a video the guy started the engines and hit the throttle to rev the engine and he said that would blow out any water.

 

[RightStuff]

Sorry, didn't see your post from earlier... Looks like we have similar year/model boats so I can tell you what I have done.

I have never ran anti-freeze and never had a problem in MN winters. To me it's an unnecessary step in the winterization process for your boat, but if you want to do it to help you sleep at night it's not going to hurt anything.

As for removing water, you aren't going to get it all out of the water-boxes in the exhaust system, but if some still remains it won't cause any problems. I wouldn't recommend rev-ing the engines out of the water, instead just simply start each engine for a few seconds then shut it off. Running it at idle RPM speed is enough to remove any water needed, we do that each time it leaves the water. The only additional water removal I do to winterize it is to blow out any water from running the engine on the hose. Typically I just hit it with a blower nozzle on the air compressor at the port you hook the hose up to for a few seconds.

Also here's a recent post on the topic of winterizing, hope it helps too: https://jetboaters.net/threads/winterizing-in-mn.29602/

 

[Matt Phillips]

The manual on my 1052cc said to rev the engines 3-4 times when out of water to blow them clean and partially empty the water boxes (mufflers). Same for the 1.8s. You will never get ALL of the water out of the engines and water boxes but as long as you blow them out as described and get some air into the system, when what water in there freezes, it will expand into the air cavities.

 

[Seadeals]

It is true the manual says to rev the engines. Some have reasons to disagree. I personally rev 4 times after a flush or when pulling out at the ramp; but try to always keep the bumps under 5,000 RPM. Another practice is to start the engines and run for a few seconds after it had sat for a while. The start after she has been sleeping a while usually drives a good bit of water from the water boxes that has drained from the engine and settled there. The engines are supposed to be self-draining, though I am sure nooks and crannies may hold some. Air into the pee holes may help; but probably will not drive water to the water boxes unless you keep the flush valves closed and tape the intake in the pump temporarily so it can build a little pressure to push water. I have not done that as I don’t feel it is necessary; but in MN where water doesn’t seem to prefer the liquid form...maybe.

 

[djtech2k]

Ok, so if I understand correctly I should run the engines briefly, with a small rev or not, and then maybe blow some air into the water flush ports?

If antifreeze is not necessary then I will very likely not do it. I am not winterizing anytime soon but want to make sure I know the right process.

 

[RightStuff]

The manual on my 1052cc said to rev the engines 3-4 times when out of water to blow them clean and partially empty the water boxes (mufflers).

I just looked at the manual for the 2013 210s (pg 4-1 and 4-2) and it doesn't say to rev the engines a few times.
Here's the shut down details from pg 4-2:

Sorry to dispute what you posted, just want to make sure the right info gets out there.

 

[Wishfull1]

"4) Turn off the water supply, then drain residual water from the exhaust system by alternately pushing the throttle lever up to half throttle and back for 10 to 15 seconds. Shut off the engine."

IE: Revving the engine.

 

[RightStuff]

Agree that says to increase the RPMs of the engine to do this. But not 3-4 blips of the throttle that others have posted doing. I read it as a ramp up of the RPMs to half throttle (~9k max, so maybe 4.5k?) and then back down after 10-15 secs to clear water. Guess that's what I was pointing out here.

Curious if anyone seen it elsewhere to do this multiple times to clear water? I know my process use to do ~3 blips to the throttle until I read this in the manual and others on here saying it could do harm to the engines and not do much more than simply running at idle to clear water.

 

[mrcleanr6]

Believe me if you are out of the boat and its on the trailer, if you have a friend rev the engine a couple times you will see water blow out the exhaust. This will not harm the engine but if you have an svho its not good for the supercharger clutch if you let off the throttle real quick. Rev up fast, rev down slow.

 

[Seadeals]

Appreciate the comments and agree on the clarification @RightStuff . The 2006 owners manual is the same (just different page). Also good to mention the same on a transom sticker.


Additionally in my experience, doing just that Revs the engine to around 4000 rpm. You don’t just move the gates out of neutral. I also don’t personally recommend ever running the engines at full throttle out of water let alone for 15 seconds. I have nothing technical to back that up other than personal conservatism, though I believe some others do.