Question regarding surge breaks on shorelander trailer

[lddv1224]

Long story short we purchased a new home with a 3 car garage with the intent to be able to store the boat at the house instead of paying anymore for indoor storage. I have a 2013 Yamaha Ar192 I had to use an 8 inch drop hitch to get it in the garage, but what I noticed was that my breaks were locking up while using the 8 inch drop hitch. I assuming because of the angle it's pushing the trailer that for some reason its not releasing the surge breaks even though I do have the key installed. Or is it possible I have a problem?

Thanks ahead for any input.

 

[Chuckbig]

Did you hook up the trailer wire harness? The brake is engaged by pressure, so if you back up without the 5 pin attached, it will engage the brake.
Edit: just saw you have the key installed, not sure why it would brake.

 

[swatski]

Yamaha singles do not have surge breaks... Is this a custom trailer? If it does have surge breaks, you can lock those up with a quarter sized piece /tool, or it should lock up in reverse with the full harness, as @Chuckbig said.

 

[lddv1224]

@Chuckbig had the key installed but did not have the 5 pin connected due to the 8 inch drop hitch causing the trailer to be so low to the ground. Had to use a jack to lower trailer onto the ball.

@swatski No its not a custom trailer, stock shorelander trailer with 2013 Yamaha AR192 and it does have surge brakes.

 

[swatski]

@Chuckbig had the key installed but did not have the 5 pin connected due to the 8 inch drop hitch causing the trailer to be so low to the ground. Had to use a jack to lower trailer onto the ball.

@swatski No its not a custom trailer, stock shorelander trailer with 2013 Yamaha AR192 and it does have surge brakes.

My bad! Yes, you need to activate the solenoid valve - or use the (whatever it's called) lockout thingy:

 

[lddv1224]

@swatski I did have the key inserted in the lockout position I'm assuming its because I didn't have the 5 pin connected. I will hook up the 5 pin connector tomorrow while hooked up to the eight inch drop hitch. I never had this problem before so I'm assuming its from the really low hitch I have to use to fit in the garage and the fact that I didn't have the 5 pin connected.

 

[swatski]

@swatski I did have the key inserted in the lockout position I'm assuming its because I didn't have the 5 pin connected. I will hook up the 5 pin connector tomorrow while hooked up to the eight inch drop hitch. I never had this problem before so I'm assuming its from the really low hitch I have to use to fit in the garage and the fact that I didn't have the 5 pin connected.

You did say you had the key installed in your first post (sorry!) - so that should have prevented the actuator and the breaks from activating, unless the key is loose or something.
Maybe @Zarrella ?

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[tdonoughue]

No, if the key was in, the 5 pin is not needed. The brakes should not have activated. Something is wrong... The key physically stops the compression of the tongue, which means that the piston cannot press into the master cylinder. With the key in, there should be no way that the brakes can trigger.

I would check to see that there is not something else that is dragging or grabbing instead of the brakes. Or check that the key did not fall out.

 

[Ronnie]

Are you sure you have the key in the right place? Maybe it is reversed and keeping the brakes from releasing. Are your calipers working properly?

 

[haknslash]

I had the same problem when trying to use a 5" drop hitch to back mine into my garage. I had to put the key in and tape it on or else it would fall out or not stop the tongue from pushing back and actuating the brakes.

 

[ggreen]

Get a 5 pin extension. I have a 5 pin to 7 pin extension on a 11 inch drop receiver to get the 212 as far as possible in a 3 car garage. Disconnect and finish the job with some heavy pushing on an angle.

 

[MrMoose]

@lddv1224 , my shoreland'r has a tab under the tongue that can be pushed in order to release the brakes if they're locked. My trailer has a label on the tongue indicating the location of the release tab.

 

[FloJet]

Sounds like wiring problem with the pin. Had this issue when I switched to circular 5 pin.

 

[Eric Popper]

It is possible that the problem is not the solenoid but that the emergency brake cable was engaged. Try pushing up on the small lever under the assembly. No picture available.

This happened to me once.

Eric

 

[lddv1224]

Thanks everyone who replied. I will diagnose the problem tomorrow. I know the key hadn't fallen out because it is one of the orange keys with the heavy duty magnet. I'm thinking it because of the 8 inch drop hitch I have to use to fit boat in the garage. Thanks again!!

 

[MrMoose]

@lddv1224, the drop may be the initial reason for the brakes to lock, if your trailer is similar to mine, look under the tongue (in the area of the surge mechanism) and push the release tab (if you have one) before you do anything. It might be that simple.

 

[swatski]

It is possible that the problem is not the solenoid but that the emergency brake cable was engaged. Try pushing up on the small lever under the assembly. No picture available.

This happened to me once.

Eric

I like this idea! This has got to be the stupid emergency break cable.

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[Ronnie]

I still think something else is wrong as others have stated if the "D" key is installed properly the brakes should be disengaged and not have the ability to engage regardless of the adapter used or size of the drop. It can't hurt to press the brake release tab or button but it should not matter if the key is installed.

 

[blacksapphirez]

zip tie around that area. it will prevent the key from falling out but you can easily put in and take out.

 

[Ronnie]

The OP has a magnetic D key, it will not simply fallout. This from a guy with several of them and who has to disengage the surge brake after everyday on the water (to back the trailer up a driveway).