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I have a 1500 with the air suspension which is WONDERFUL for towing our 21' - I know you're dealing with a bit more weight.
Other options for dealing with tongue weight, from easy to hard:
1) Make sure you're not stowing too much weight in the front of the boat vs. over the axles when towing. My wife doesn't seem to get "weight distribution" when we pack for a trip, she just packs the entire house.
2) Flip your 2" drop upside down and rise it.
3) Move your winch to the rear X inches to shift the weight of the boat.
4) Add air bags to your rear suspension.
5) Shift your axles forward.
5-7% tongue weight is what Shoreland’r recommends. Move the post back. In my case, moving it back 6 inches gave me a tongue weight of 450 lbs.
Interesting, as that’s a bit less than the industry recommends. If you moved your post back 6”, and still have 450 lbs, You’re not much less than 10% now, which would make me believe it was a bit more than 10% from factory. Either way, it’s a fine option, so long as it doesn’t get so light in the front she gets squirrelly at speed.
Question:Would it be pretty normal to notice more wear on the rear tires as they are the ones doing the braking on a Shoreland’r trailer? I don‘t have a Ram, so I can’t comment on tongue weight effects with the coil spring rear, but my 21’ towed MUCH better after I adjusted my tongue weight. There are plenty of threads on here about adjusting the weight, I started at about 500 lbs tongue weight (about 10%). The truck handled it fine, but it felt a bit “bouncy”. Seems like I had to use more brake pedal to stop the truck and trailer combo. I opted to slide my axles, as the bunks are already about 4-5” forward of my transom. I found a guide that suggested every 1” of axle movement should equate to roughly 15 lbs of tongue weight change. I slid the axles up 5”, which made only a 75 lb difference, I’m still a bit over the 5-7% Shoreland’r recommends but much closer. The towing difference was pretty noticeable as well, less bounce and it felt like the surge brakes were doing more of the braking duty than before. I think the starting height of your vehicle makes a difference as well, so take my experience as just that one guys opinion. Here’s how it ended up though:
View attachment 123733
Thanks man!This looks great!
Not in my experience. I have had the boat 3 years now and I do about the same amount of towing each year. As a background, I was a factory trained and ASE cerified master technician for 25 years, so I pay close attention to certain things including uneven and excessive tire wear on all my families vehicles. 1st year with the boat and trailer in the stock position, no noticeable uneven wear. Moved the boat back in 2018 for the tow to Fla for Bimini. Stayed that way until just before the 2019 July Bimini trip. At that point the rear tires would have just barely passed inspection and the front tires were still at 50%. So I put new tires on and moved the boat back up to its original position on the trailer. It is now a year later and all the tires are wearing pretty evenly again.Question:Would it be pretty normal to notice more wear on the rear tires as they are the ones doing the braking on a Shoreland’r trailer?
I absolutely agree that nobody should be moving their boat on the trailer without knowing the weights first. I also check my temps with an infrared thermometer on long trips, I did not notice a change from before to after the move. I can't speak to tire wear, as I only ran it the original setup about 1000 miles. I now have over 5000 towing miles and the wear is pretty even. The important takeaway from our differing results is probably that at minimum everyone should check their tongue weight and trailer weight, and ensure the setup is proper.
Clarification, I do not have uneven tire wear. My trailer tows great and all wear is even.Is your trailer level? If not, how far off?
Are your tires all at the same pressure? How often do you check?
I've found on tandem axle trailers (more open and closed car trailers than boat trailers), that proper level, and proper air pressure are more critical than proper loading for tire wear and heat. Even a severely "front heavy" trailer will wear tires evenly if the trailer is level.
A secondary check you can do is to make sure that the load balancers (the levers that connect the rear of the front spring and the front of the rear spring together) are well lubricated and not binding. This can lead to uneven loading if one is seized and/or binding.
Another thought. Since you moved the axles on your trailer. I'm assuming you checked for square after moving them, and that your uneven wear is not "pointed" or "slanted" across the face of the tire? If the axles were slightly out of line I could see some scuffing from the rears, leading to uneven or accelerated wear.
Well this makes the second thread I've completely lost track of. I'm going to go re-read and get my bearings.......Or maybe start day drinking, I'm not sure which would be more effective at this point.Clarification, I do not have uneven tire wear. My trailer tows great and all wear is even.