Random question about batteries and setups

[Theryan]

I installed a Noco GenM2 dual bank charger in my boat on Monday, and have had it plugged in since. The strange thing is that it won't turn green; it stays fully red lit indicating that it's charging still. I reached out to noco about it, but haven't heard back yet. Curious if any of you have had this happen, and what the issue might be. I unplugged the charger and tested the electronics and they work fine, and boat turned over fine. The voltage rating after starting it was showing at 13.7V; is that normal? Good? Bad?

That being said, I also got to thinking.

The battery in my boat (bought it used) is a group 24 fleet farm dual cycle. It seems like it's working fine, but I have no idea how old it is. If it turns out that maybe the battery is bad, I'd have to look at replacing it. Here's what I'm wondering...

Eventually, I may do a dual battery setup (hence the dual bank charger).

In my case, currently the deep cycle works fine for turning over the boat, and I could presumably get another deep cycle with the same, or better 500CCA rating, and be fine, right? Or, I could get a dual purpose, but I know that those don't handle the deep discharges as well as a deep cycle.

So, I've been searching online and can't find anything regarding this, and figured I'd ask you guys since you've quickly become my go-to for questions I can't find answers to.

If the deep cycle turns my boat over fine, should I just stick with that while I only have a single battery? If/when I get a second battery, since I don't seem to "need" a starting battery, could I get another deep cycle? What about a dual purpose? As long as the CCA are at the 500 or more rating, would there be any issue if I had a DP and a DC, or two DCs instead of a starting battery with one of those?

I have a SX190, and an aftermarket head unit (Kenwood) with a modest 400W amp to power some 6.5" Kicker speakers. No extra speakers or subs, and no additional electronics yet.

 

[Meetball]

Do it once and be done, Pick up some deep cycle batteries and stick them in. Then youll have more than enough power when ever you need it. No worry. On the charger part, I would be scared it maybe boiling the battery and you may kill the one you have in there. See if theres a setting for gel or agm or lead filled and setup is correct

 

[Theryan]

Do it once and be done, Pick up some deep cycle batteries and stick them in. Then youll have more than enough power when ever you need it. No worry. On the charger part, I would be scared it maybe boiling the battery and you may kill the one you have in there. See if theres a setting for gel or agm or lead filled and setup is correct

You think just having a couple of deep cycles would be fine, instead of worrying about getting a starting battery then? Would a DC and a DP be a better option?

And, regarding the charger, it's a smart battery charger so it is supposed to do all of that sensing on its own.

 

[tabbibus]

Odd. My NOCO definitely turns green. Do you have that bilge that turns itself on every so often? That may be keeping the battery from being topped off. Do you have the switch on or off during charging?

 

[Theryan]

Not that I know of, re: the bilge question. My boat is in my garage on a trailer currently, and the bilge switch and all accessories are turned off completely.

 

[Julian]

Not that I know of, re: the bilge question. My boat is in my garage on a trailer currently, and the bilge switch and all accessories are turned off completely.

Yamaha keeps wiring these boats differently. Some the bilge is still operational with the battery switch(s) off, some not. Try turning off your battery switch and seeing if the bilge is still operational (you can open the engine hatch and just sit there for 3 minutes to listen for the buzz of it kicking on, or most have a test switch/button on them).

I have a cranking battery as my starter battery (bank 1), and I have a deep cycle battery for my house battery (bank 2).

 

[Meetball]

with our engines deep cycles would be no issue to start. My current setup has 3 deep cycles and 1 dual purpose just because i needed a battery when i bought the boat and thats all walmart had lol. If you plan on adding more stereo or electronics and plan to sit long periods of time 2 deep cycles should be the way to go. But it all depends on your boating habbits.

 

[Theryan]

Yamaha keeps wiring these boats differently. Some the bilge is still operational with the battery switch(s) off, some not. Try turning off your battery switch and seeing if the bilge is still operational (you can open the engine hatch and just sit there for 3 minutes to listen for the buzz of it kicking on, or most have a test switch/button on them).

I have a cranking battery as my starter battery (bank 1), and I have a deep cycle battery for my house battery (bank 2).

To clarify, my boat doesn't have a battery switch since it's only the single battery. That being said, with the engine turned off I can still turn the bilge on. But, if I just sit there with the boat off it doesn't turn on ever by itself. Was out there working on some stuff for a few hours and never heard it kick in once.

 

[Theryan]

with our engines deep cycles would be no issue to start. My current setup has 3 deep cycles and 1 dual purpose just because i needed a battery when i bought the boat and thats all walmart had lol. If you plan on adding more stereo or electronics and plan to sit long periods of time 2 deep cycles should be the way to go. But it all depends on your boating habbits.

Would I need to bother with getting the more expensive AGMs, or would sealed lead still be a fine option? Thanks for the advice!

 

[Meetball]

depends on your plans, I went all agms but starting battery. Sams club has group 31s with 105ah for about 150. one of those should run your stereo all day. Im running 3 but I have alot of stereo