Geoff Cooper
Jetboaters Admiral
- Messages
- 1,124
- Reaction score
- 1,256
- Points
- 262
- Location
- Thailand
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2006
- Boat Model
- AR
- Boat Length
- 23
We are coming to the end of the rainy season here in Thailand and the last few days it's been monsoon weather, This year has been good really and it's not stopped me getting out in the Boat to much but as it was raining rather than stay in i decided to go and do those odd jobs on the Boat that you never seem to get around to doing, If you remember a couple of weeks ago i did a referb on the Bow light and converted it to LED well the good news is it worked really well and having got a friend to stand on the beach he could see me for much more than a mile so a great success, Ok i decided to give the Swim platform Radio remote a bit of a referbish as it suffers UV damage the same as the Bow light did so for those who are interested here we go with my step by step method of how i approached the subject again you may have a better way, .....OK.
As you can see it's looking a little on the sad side
Unscrew the rear tray and wedge something in to support it, Disconnect the drain hose and remove the old silicon from around the tubes, Use an 8 mil ring spanner and a Philips screwdriver to remove the Radio Remote securing screws.
Very gently don't go mad we don't want to scratch anything ease a thin blade behind the remote to separate the silicon.
Now it's separated clean the silicon from both surfaces, On the back of the remote you will find 10 very small Philips screws which hold the remote together remove them and put all screws in a safe place you don't want to loose any, Turn all power off at the main switch and cut the wires leaving about 4 inches on the back of the remote.
Clean the surface well
Your remote should now be looking like this even more sad, Ok lets go make it happy, Oh and undo your Gas cap and use a Philips screwdriver to undo the small chain holding it on and put the screw back into the cap for safe keeping.
Ok same procedure as when we did the Bow light give the Remote control case and the Gas cap a good flatting with 180 grit paper and mask up the circuit board and wires and that small symbol in the middle of the case it's a little tricky but be patient, Make sure all surfaces are clean i usually wipe them with a clean cloth with some thinners on
You should still have plenty of paint left from the Bow light so give them 3 coats and leave time between each coat to dry and leave overnight to harden.
Wash the rubber pad in soapy water make sure it's dry and start to rebuild
Solder the connections back together and use some heatshrink to insulate the joints, Check the Radio is working ok and put some new silicon around the back of the remote and screw it back in place gently, I used new screws but that's up to you.
Gently tighten it until you see the silicon coming out all around the sides of the remote, Use a wet cloth and gently wipe the excess silicon away leaving a smooth joint this will set in about 24 hours and will be completely watertight, Replace the drain pipe on the rear tray and run some new silicon around the tubes then fit the rear tray back in place and replace the screws
Rear tray back in place
Job finished ok time to finish the Gas filler and Cap.
Mask around the filler neck surround and again flat the surface with 180 paper clean all surfaces with a clean cloth with some thinners on it and give it 3 coats the same as the other parts you painted and allow time in between coats to dry, Leave overnight to dry and harden, I also painted the screws as they looked a little worse for wear and i hadn't got replacements but you don't see them when the Cap is replaced.
Remove the masking tape and give the surrounding gel coat a cut and polish in case there was any over spray, Don't forget to screw the Cap back onto the chain in the filler neck with the Philips screw you screwed back into the Cap
I'm pleased with that and the jobs done.
Don't forget take your time there's no rush and keep your work nice and clean enjoy doing it, If you have a problem or think there's something I've missed just let me know and i will do my best to answer any questions, Like i said this is the method i used you may have a different way of doing it, Good Luck
As you can see it's looking a little on the sad side
Unscrew the rear tray and wedge something in to support it, Disconnect the drain hose and remove the old silicon from around the tubes, Use an 8 mil ring spanner and a Philips screwdriver to remove the Radio Remote securing screws.
Very gently don't go mad we don't want to scratch anything ease a thin blade behind the remote to separate the silicon.
Now it's separated clean the silicon from both surfaces, On the back of the remote you will find 10 very small Philips screws which hold the remote together remove them and put all screws in a safe place you don't want to loose any, Turn all power off at the main switch and cut the wires leaving about 4 inches on the back of the remote.
Clean the surface well
Your remote should now be looking like this even more sad, Ok lets go make it happy, Oh and undo your Gas cap and use a Philips screwdriver to undo the small chain holding it on and put the screw back into the cap for safe keeping.
Ok same procedure as when we did the Bow light give the Remote control case and the Gas cap a good flatting with 180 grit paper and mask up the circuit board and wires and that small symbol in the middle of the case it's a little tricky but be patient, Make sure all surfaces are clean i usually wipe them with a clean cloth with some thinners on
You should still have plenty of paint left from the Bow light so give them 3 coats and leave time between each coat to dry and leave overnight to harden.
Wash the rubber pad in soapy water make sure it's dry and start to rebuild
Solder the connections back together and use some heatshrink to insulate the joints, Check the Radio is working ok and put some new silicon around the back of the remote and screw it back in place gently, I used new screws but that's up to you.
Gently tighten it until you see the silicon coming out all around the sides of the remote, Use a wet cloth and gently wipe the excess silicon away leaving a smooth joint this will set in about 24 hours and will be completely watertight, Replace the drain pipe on the rear tray and run some new silicon around the tubes then fit the rear tray back in place and replace the screws
Rear tray back in place
Job finished ok time to finish the Gas filler and Cap.
Mask around the filler neck surround and again flat the surface with 180 paper clean all surfaces with a clean cloth with some thinners on it and give it 3 coats the same as the other parts you painted and allow time in between coats to dry, Leave overnight to dry and harden, I also painted the screws as they looked a little worse for wear and i hadn't got replacements but you don't see them when the Cap is replaced.
Remove the masking tape and give the surrounding gel coat a cut and polish in case there was any over spray, Don't forget to screw the Cap back onto the chain in the filler neck with the Philips screw you screwed back into the Cap
I'm pleased with that and the jobs done.
Don't forget take your time there's no rush and keep your work nice and clean enjoy doing it, If you have a problem or think there's something I've missed just let me know and i will do my best to answer any questions, Like i said this is the method i used you may have a different way of doing it, Good Luck
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