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Removing snaps and filling holes to install hydro teak

Bruce

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I am hoping to install my new hydro teak later this week.

Can anyone suggest what size drill bit to use to drill out the old snaps? I assume that all I need to drill out is a small part of the center.

And what should I use to fill the holes left behind?

@JetBoatPilot, I bet you have the answers.

Thanks
 
My snaps have a Phillips screw center with a #8 screw about 3/8" long. If your holes are going too be covered by the hydro teak then you can fill the holes with some marine silicone.
 
I agree with @andy07sx230ho . I would use 3M5200 to fill the holes as they should be out of sight under the hydro teak and the sealant will make them water tight.
 
I used 3m 5200 before I installed our faux teak sea deck this week. Most of the holes are covered except for a couple of them.
 
Unscrewing the snaps sounds like so much more fun than the drilling process I had imagined. Thanks everyone.
 
As @Skysurfer2010 mentioned why fill the holes that the hydro-teak covers? I doubt any water will get in there and if so it will just find its way to the bilge.
 
@Bruce we use 3M5200 for the holes and don't drill out the holes. You mainly want to plug any holes so water does not drain from the deck into the bilge during a rain storm. The mats will cover 99% of the holes but we fill them all just out of practice and being meticulous.
 
Has anyone ever had any problems with the hydro-teak? Such as pealing up or whatever. I'm interested in learning all I can about it.
Wes
 
Has anyone ever had any problems with the hydro-teak? Such as pealing up or whatever. I'm interested in learning all I can about it.
Wes

I cleaned the floors with acetone before installing the Hydro-Teak and after one season it is holding in place securely.
 
I'm so glad you asked this question. I was wondering this same thing for when I make the switch from carpet (in the spring.) Waiting patiently for another group buy, I missed the last one and the Muther Tucker needs to save her pennies cuz she's buyin' a new fuel tank!
 
The Hydro-Teak is being discontinued in favor of exclusively offering SeaDek on our website. The Hydro-Teak like SeaDek holds really well as long as it is installed on good slick gelcoat. When installed where the edges lie directly on top of the factory embossed tread dots, the mats can peel up occasionally. This then requires a dab or two of super glue to tack it back down in the loose spot.

Hope this helps.
 
As needed we can order material for replacements under warranty but will no longer be selling new kits.
 
I found contact cement to work awesome in areas where it was peeling up on the swim deck from people sliding up out of the water and lifting the edges. Let both sides tack then touch together....Been permanent so far.

Gotta run...Wikikki and daylight is burning....Family is finally ready to go to breakfast.
 
Ok. So that means if in the future a mat gets damaged and we need to order a replacement mat you'd still be able to make it?

Part of my decision in buying the hydro-teak mats for the cockpit and transom was that I figured if a mat gets damaged I'd be able to just replace the individual mat.
 
@Bruce we use 3M5200 for the holes and don't drill out the holes. You mainly want to plug any holes so water does not drain from the deck into the bilge during a rain storm. The mats will cover 99% of the holes but we fill them all just out of practice and being meticulous.
@JetBoatPilot Hi Will i recently bought the SeaDek for my 2017 Vortex VRX from your clearance area. Looking at the deck, there are not screws for the snaps but rivets so I will need to drill them out correct?
 
@JetBoatPilot Hi Will i recently bought the SeaDek for my 2017 Vortex VRX from your clearance area. Looking at the deck, there are not screws for the snaps but rivets so I will need to drill them out correct?

Yes drill them and then add 3M 5200 fast cure or 4200 fast cure.
 
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