Gym
Jetboaters Admiral
- Messages
- 3,258
- Reaction score
- 2,661
- Points
- 352
- Location
- Falmouth, MA (Cape Cod)
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2006
- Boat Model
- SX
- Boat Length
- 23
Last week I replaced both shift cables. I've had the new ones for nearly four years but they weren't really bad enough to make me want to dive into the fiberglass splinter forest of the bilge again. But since I'm no longer having nightmares from my steering cable change of about four years ago I figured I'd tackle the job.
The job was pretty straight forward and are much easier than the steering cables to install. One thing I thought I would look at was @Speedling's throttle drop back fix. His write up & pics helped me navigate my way through the binicle so thanks for that @Speedling. When inside the binicle housing I looked over the friction adjustment. I adjusted the friction adjustment several times, then tried advancing the throttle after each adjustment. I noticed the resistance to advancing the throttle coincided exactly with my adjustments. I could also view the metal band tightening around the plastic wheel each time I made an adjustment. I decided not to make any changes to the binicle adjuster.
I took the boat out yesterday & today. I was very happy I no longer had to bump my throttle handles in order to shift through the various positions. In fact, I can literally shift with two fingers. The other nice thing I noticed is NO MORE THROTTLE DROP. When I set the throttles to any RPM setting below 5k, where it used to cause a drop back, the throttles stay right where I set them. I haven't even set the friction screws. They are completely backed off.
My theory is the cable ends were corroded inside the cable sheath down by the nozzles. I believe the friction was actually causing a slight bow on the inner cable causing it to spring back when I released the throttle handle.
I am certainly not refuting @Speedling's findings as his fix worked for him and several others who tried it. I am suggesting there may be other causes as in my case. If any of you are fighting your shifter/throttles as I was for the last several years start by changing your cables. If that doesn't resolve your issues try Speedling's fix. One of them should solve your problem.
The job was pretty straight forward and are much easier than the steering cables to install. One thing I thought I would look at was @Speedling's throttle drop back fix. His write up & pics helped me navigate my way through the binicle so thanks for that @Speedling. When inside the binicle housing I looked over the friction adjustment. I adjusted the friction adjustment several times, then tried advancing the throttle after each adjustment. I noticed the resistance to advancing the throttle coincided exactly with my adjustments. I could also view the metal band tightening around the plastic wheel each time I made an adjustment. I decided not to make any changes to the binicle adjuster.
I took the boat out yesterday & today. I was very happy I no longer had to bump my throttle handles in order to shift through the various positions. In fact, I can literally shift with two fingers. The other nice thing I noticed is NO MORE THROTTLE DROP. When I set the throttles to any RPM setting below 5k, where it used to cause a drop back, the throttles stay right where I set them. I haven't even set the friction screws. They are completely backed off.
My theory is the cable ends were corroded inside the cable sheath down by the nozzles. I believe the friction was actually causing a slight bow on the inner cable causing it to spring back when I released the throttle handle.
I am certainly not refuting @Speedling's findings as his fix worked for him and several others who tried it. I am suggesting there may be other causes as in my case. If any of you are fighting your shifter/throttles as I was for the last several years start by changing your cables. If that doesn't resolve your issues try Speedling's fix. One of them should solve your problem.
