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Replacing steering cables on a 2008 Yamaha SX 230 jet boat

M

mark clemm

Well-Known Member
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Points
50
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2008
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
23
Can anybody give me a step-by-step for replacing steering cables on a 2008 Yamaha SX 230 jet boat?
 
The only one I remember doing a step by step was railmonkey on the other site around spring of 2011. I searched for an hour last night and found several of his posts but not that one. Does anybody have a copy or link to that post?
 
Here are the steps:
  1. First remove the cleanout tray, disconnect the cable from the rear of the boat and push the cable through, reach thru the clean out area and attach the new cable with wire/tape.
  2. Then lift up the engine hatch, you will have a clear shot of the new and old cable. Pull thru until you get to interior seat cushion compartment.
  3. From steering wheel, first remove the two nuts holding the cables, at the very end. remove the bolt holding a small block to the steering wheel and also remove a cable spacer block which is about six inches further down.
  4. Pull cables out thru the hatch. You can now pull out the old cables. I wouldn't bother trying to put the new cables in the plastic sleeve as it's a tight fit, just push thru along the floor and it goes easy.
  5. On the new cable it comes with two new washers at the transom end, most likely the old washer did not come off the boat so reuse it. On mine there was no washer directly inside the boat either so no new washers were used. When you are connecting the new cable to the wheel, make sure to assemble outside of the hatch or directly under the wheel, dont try to assemble by squeezing into this small compartment, its not necessary.
  6. Put the cable clamp block on both cables, feed the cable ends thru the smaller block spacer, attach nuts, tighten and then push the assembly into positon on the wheel where you install a bolt to hold the assembly in place - don't try to assemble everything in place at the wheel, it's way too hard. That's about it, should take 30 mins.
  7. Seal up the hole in the transom, both inside and out.
  8. Other thing though is getting the large 22m nut off the rear of the boat. I found an old deep socket, cut the end off and welded a 12" pipe to that so it slid over the cable ends and you could uninstall - without this you are going to struggle. If you have a local dealer maybe they could lend you this puppy?

Also putting back together the clean out tray, dont install and then try to feed the cut off switches thru the holes and put on the locknuts, do this before screwing backdown the clean out tray, seems obvious but I did it the hard way first time. If you are also going to do the reverse gate cable I'd do it now so you don't have to take the cleaning tray out again, plus it's easier as you can get good access to this cable from inside the boat. Also check this site for other sources for the teleflex cable, $50.00 or less versus Yammie $165.00 each. Don't think you'll have the same luck with the steering cables tho.

Credit to @Railmonkey
 
Just a couple of tips to add to @Julian's clearified procedure. When removing the U shaped fitting, at the stern, that connects to the jet nozzle, count the number of turns required to remove this fitting. Then write it down. When replaced on the new cable use the same number of turns. Same goes for the nut that holds each cable to the steering block behind the helm. This will keep the steering nozzles in the same, straight position preventing the need to recalibrate. Also pay attention to the ends of the new cables. They look very similar and are easy to confuse. (Especially after your 3rd beer). When the clean out tray is removed make a good inspection of the lower bilge. Especially check all hose clamps. I would put a socket on all clamps and apply a little torque. I found 3 broken clamps when I replaced my steering cables. Only 2 clamps appeared broken. The 3rd broke when I applied a little torque so it was ready to let go.
 
Last edited:
I tried to count the treads but it didn't match up for some reason. I just moved the nossle all the way to the left and right along with the steering wheel to match (if that makes sense) and was able to line everything up.
 
I used a black magic marker to put a mark on the nut to aid in counting the turns.
 
Me too but for some reason it was a little off. I think it was off to start with and now it's perfect
 
I also marked mine with a marker so I could count them . It's not a very hard project just time consuming. And yes make sure you check everything under the clean out tray
 
So what do you do when the tape breaks when the cable is half way to the front?
 
Sdboater said:
So what do you do when the tape breaks when the cable is half way to the front?
Click to expand...
You can access the cables pretty much the entire way. If needed, pull it back and use a fish tape or coat hanger. Where exactly did you lose it?
 
It looks like it's under the access panel for the fuel tank
 
The new cable is out and the old is half way through so I can't get it back to the engine compartment
 
I tried to open the fuel hatch and no luck the bolts are in to tight. I broke my screwing driver trying to get them out. I ground down a 1/4" drive and put that on my impact and Brobr that off also. I can push the old one back a little but not enough to get to the engine compartment. If I can get the bolts out of the fuel hatch will I see the cable
 
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