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Requesting user opinions on boat vent 3 and anti rattle devices

Ronnie

Jetboaters Fleet Admiral
Messages
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Location
SF Bay Area
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2010
Boat Model
Limited S
Boat Length
24
Briefly stated, I just purchased two of the pictured boat vent 3s (boat cover vents) along with telescoping poles to mount them on to replace the oem anti pooling kit and two anti rattle devices (one for each tow vehicle), also pictured. Now I’m wondering what, if any, users here think of these things. I’m hoping I didn’t just spend over $100 on “snake oil”.

I was planning to purchase two hang tyte parts but realized I didn’t need their functionality as much as I would like to vent the cover better instead. The boat vents on telescoping poles should allow me to get rid of the anti pooling kits straps as well. As for the anti rattle devices, I’m just sick of hearing the clunking the comes with stoping and starting when towing a trailer (boat, pwc, etc.), now I’m wondering if I should have bought a locking pin device (third picture below) instead or in addition to the square filler devices I did buy.

E748EB45-4254-48DE-BF3A-4E18AEAE07BD.jpeg494FC339-1264-4536-9869-7DD6BB43D5E8.png6852AC69-DB85-43F1-B956-C2179E0CB774.png
 
Locking pin is a must for me. Cheap l insurance/deterrent to keep my hitch from walking away (especially if you have a nicer one).

I was looking into adding those anti-rattle spacers but after reading a number of reviews online, I decided to pass. Reviews are mixed but the general consensus was "helps but doesnt eliminate" and general concerns about durability/longevity.

I'll let someone else comment on the poles. I am in need of some myself and like the ones you posted,
 
So does the locking pin you purchased stop the rattling? I already have and use locking pins just not ones designed to stop the rattling.

Ironically, I didn’t read any of the reviews available, just went uninformed impulse shopping.
 
The problem with 2019 is... I have to say this is a joke and don’t do this.

Go old school! Scuff up the hitch up with a grinder. Scratch the inside of your receiver with a wire brush. Then dip the hitch in salt water first and put it in the receiver, let it sit a month and your good to go no rattles. Make sure it is the one you want first it locks in there so well you will not change it again.
Disclaimer ( Rusting your hitch into your receiver will weaken both and cut down on there lifespan, do not do this, keep salt water away from your vehicle if you can.)
 
@Ronnie The Boat Vent 3's work well on our bow and cockpit covers. The canvas shop put them in with the telescoping poles 3 years ago when we had our covers made. You will need to modify your cover by cutting holes and sewing in reinforcing patches for the vent to clamp/dig into. A few pictures below I just took.

20191002_072459.jpg

Vent Parts, the gripping ring on right has "teeth" that will engage the black reinforcement on bottom of cover. Not seen, ring turned down.

20191002_072550.jpg

Top view vent removed

20191002_072555.jpg

Bottom of cover with reinforcement patch.

20191002_072609.jpg

Installed and in use.

20180623_150726.jpg
 
I don't have any experience with that particular device to eliminate hitch rattle, but I used this on my last car/boat - completely eliminated the noise.
Amazon.com: CZC AUTO Hitch Tightener, Heavy Duty Anti-Rattle Stabilizer for 1.25" and 2" Hitches, Reduce Movement from Hitch Tray Cargo Carrier Bike Rack Trailer Ball Mount, Rust Free (1): Automotive

Thanks , I considered this and similar items but wanted something I could install permanently v. Having to install and remove it after each use. I’ve banged my knees and shins against enough tow balls and draw bars (sometimes resulting in sweat out loud/blinding pain) that I don’t leave mine installed when I’m not using them any more. It’s also why I’m considering the locking pin with a spring since I have to use a pin anyway when I install and remove the draw bar/tow ball.
 
Yeah, it was a smidge annoying. i ended up just leaving a ratchet in the hatch to take on/off. Not time consuming to install, but just another 'thing' to do.
 
@ zipper , thanks for responding. Do you have any mold problems now that you installed the boat vent 3s? This is the other problem I’m trying to solve along with getting rid of the oem anti pooling kit. I’m disappointed to read that I may have to add reinforcement to cover where I plan to install the vents since I can’t do it properly myself (although I’m thinking a patch of duct tape on both sides of the cover where the vents are installed should work) and would likely have to take it in and pay a shop to do this the right way. I’m not worried about how it looks since this will be on my old/spare and already repaired once winter storage cover.

By the way your custom cover looks great.
 
@ zipper , thanks for responding. Do you have any mold problems now that you installed the boat vent 3s? This is the other problem I’m trying to solve along with getting rid of the oem anti pooling kit. I’m disappointed to read that I may have to add reinforcement to cover where I plan to install the vents since I can’t do it properly myself (although I’m thinking a patch of duct tape on both sides of the cover where the vents are installed should work) and would likely have to take it in and pay a shop to do this the right way. I’m not worried about how it looks since this will be on my old/spare and already repaired once winter storage cover.

By the way your custom cover looks great.

Thanks, No, we do not have any mold/mildew issues under the cover as long as rainwater does not stand on the bow sole forward of the ski locker. I fixed that here https://jetboaters.net/threads/rain-water-pools-at-front-of-bow-floor-while-on-the-water.14264/
I would add reinforcement for the vent. One layer of canvas is not going to stay together with the way this vent engages the material. You will need something to spread the load sewn to the cover. Duct tape is not your friend here. If you look closely at the pic. below, you can see where the "teeth" engage the reinforcing material. Just saying...one layer of fabric may get ruined, torn up over tme.

20191002_091936.jpg
 
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Yakima (the bike rack company) sells a locking and threaded hitch pin. They use it as a means to keep the rack from "rocking" back and forth with bikes on it. Very similar to what you posted above, however they actually thread the inside of the their insert, and the pin has a larger and a smaller diameter, and a section with threads, so it might not be ideal. It also requires a ratchet or wrench to install.

I would just use what @seanmclean posted though.

I have, in a pinch, driven wooden cabinet shims between the draw bar and receiver before. Was on a long vacation type trip, 10 hrs from home, and the "cargo rack" we had installed on the back of our traverse was wobbling and rattling exceptionally bad. Stopped for lunch, found a hardware store, bought some cabinet shims (wedge shapes wood pieces), borrowed a hammer and drove those SOB's in there tight. Rattling and wobbling stopped. Had to chain the rack to a tree and drive the other way to get the two pieces apart though. Probably not ideal for constant use.
 
@zipper , thanks for the feedback on reinforcing with duct tape. If it didn’t come from you with first hand knowledge I’d probably discard it. Do not iron on patches on both sides of the cover would work? It’s a lot easier for me to stop by Joanne’s fabrics than to take the cover to and from my marine upholsterer’s shop which Is a lot further away. She also has much more limited work hours and doesn’t work weekends.
 
On a side note to your rattling issue, which this will not fix it, but I purchased a convert a ball mount hitch from E-Trailer, has a built in urethane slider that greatly reduces the initial shock when starting or stopping. With the surge brakes, it makes a hug difference, IMHO. $66.00



Convert-A-Ball Ball Mount for 2 Hitches - 3/4 Rise, 2 Drop - 10,000 lbs

Convert-A-Ball Ball Mounts






Code: AMSC2


Our Price: $66.54
In Stock

  • Ball Mounts
  • Fixed Ball Mount
  • No Ball
  • Steel Shank
  • Drop - 2 Inch
  • Rise - 1 Inch
  • Fits 2 Inch Hitch
  • Class IV
  • 10000 lbs GTW
  • Shock Absorbing
  • Convert-A-Ball





Sturdy steel ball mount with a solid shank measures 9-1/2" from center of hitch pin hole to center of ball hole. Polyurethane interior acts as a shock absorber to reduce vibration. Powder coat finish protects against rust.
More Information >
 
I don't have any experience with that particular device to eliminate hitch rattle, but I used this on my last car/boat - completely eliminated the noise.
Amazon.com: CZC AUTO Hitch Tightener, Heavy Duty Anti-Rattle Stabilizer for 1.25" and 2" Hitches, Reduce Movement from Hitch Tray Cargo Carrier Bike Rack Trailer Ball Mount, Rust Free (1): Automotive
This ^ I've used one for over a year now and it eliminates pretty much all the noise when towing my boat and when I use a hitch-mounted rack. Takes an extra minute or so to tighten or loosen those nuts. I replaced the regular nuts it came with with nylock nuts.
 
I have these and they totally eliminate the rattle and slamming due to the slop in the hitch pin and receiver!

 
Update: I installed the vent 3s today and ended up ironing on patches to both sides of the cover to reinforce it. Below are the before, during and after pics. Total cost about $80 and 30 minutes.

The anti rattle devices I purchased are the wrong size (too small) , I will need to exchange them.
 

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@Ronnie The Boat Vent 3's work well on our bow and cockpit covers. The canvas shop put them in with the telescoping poles 3 years ago when we had our covers made. You will need to modify your cover by cutting holes and sewing in reinforcing patches for the vent to clamp/dig into. A few pictures below I just took.

View attachment 106286

Vent Parts, the gripping ring on right has "teeth" that will engage the black reinforcement on bottom of cover. Not seen, ring turned down.

View attachment 106287

Top view vent removed

View attachment 106288

Bottom of cover with reinforcement patch.

View attachment 106289

Installed and in use.

View attachment 106290
What brand of cover it this? Use the cover to just store or do you sleep on your boat?
 
It’s a Yamaha oem cover that I bought off out of state forum member. He had a 2014 242 so it’s at least 5 years old now. I use it for storage only since I’ve already torn and had it repaired plus the original dealer silk screened their company name and logo on it. I have slept on my boat twice since 2012, once with a tube filling the bow and again on the lounger / spotters seat. I don’t recommend either method or sleeping on that boat overnight at all.
 
I’m liking the fact that I don’t need to raise the poles up with blocks of wood anymore (the original poles from the shipping cover didn’t telescope and those that did froze after a few years). I also like that I don’t need to have straps to each corner of the boat anymore. The extra air circulation provided by the vents makes the decision to use these over a conventional anti-pooling system an easy decision to make and repeat of necessary.
 
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@Ronnie The Boat Vent 3's work well on our bow and cockpit covers. The canvas shop put them in with the telescoping poles 3 years ago when we had our covers made. You will need to modify your cover by cutting holes and sewing in reinforcing patches for the vent to clamp/dig into. A few pictures below I just took.

View attachment 106286

Vent Parts, the gripping ring on right has "teeth" that will engage the black reinforcement on bottom of cover. Not seen, ring turned down.

View attachment 106287

Top view vent removed

View attachment 106288

Bottom of cover with reinforcement patch.

View attachment 106289

Installed and in use.

View attachment 106290
Where did you buy your orange cover?
 
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