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Rev limiter <on Regal Rush 90hp>

Cammcrobb

Member
Messages
40
Reaction score
0
Points
15
Boat Make
Regal
Year
1996
Boat Model
X
Boat Length
Other
Hey guys, anyone know how to disable the rev limiter on a 1995 regal rush 90hp sj?
 
Unplug the black with yellow strip wire from the rev limiter. That is the kill wire that stops the engine when grounded by either the ignition switch, dead-man switch or intermittently the Rev limiter.
 
The engine won't turn off when I do this
 
Maybe add a switch on that wire, so you can re-enable the ability to power off your engine?
 
Unplug the black with yellow strip wire from the rev limiter. That is the kill wire that stops the engine when grounded by either the ignition switch, dead-man switch or intermittently the Rev limiter.
If I do this and have the engine won't turn off, I'm attempting to eliminate the rev limiter, I believe it is faulty as when I go 3/4+ throttle the engine dies out
 
Try unplugging the brown wire that goes directly to the rev limiter. Something is not correct if the wire that goes to the rev limiter and no where else is unplugged. The Brown wire sends the pulses from that cylinder trigger coil to both the ignition and the revlimiter. No signal on that wire and it should not shut down.
 
Sorry to be a pain, when I unhook the yel/blk at the rev limiter it starts but won't shut down, further down that line there is another connection of yel/blk, that has always been unhooked and will not start if it is connected.
 
Are you confusing the rev limiter with the CDI box?Brand-New-Rev-Limiter-821889A31-821889A12-144-1889-52-For-Mercury-Outboard-Motor-30HP-50HP-60H...jpg
 
Wow, yes. I am, could this be faulty,where is the rev limiter?
 
Look in the manual I posted it is usually in the front lower of the ignition plate. If it is not there then that is probably not your problem
 
Hum, any other suggestions?Like as to why my one yell/ blk is hooked and it's the only way it starts? I'm at a loss, pls help
 
Open the manual and find the electrical print and trace the black and yellow wires. Any ground on the system will stop the engine. The ignition switch grounds it, the kill switch grounds it and the rev limiter grounds it (intermittently to reduce the rpms). It takes using your fingers ant tracking the wires and where they go. If you have only one connection and the engine can be stopped with the ignition that one most probably goes to the big black plug and the harness to the front. Also probably the same wire goes to the kill or dead man switch. Crank it and then try stopping with the kill switch, The third BLK/YEL would go to the rev limiter.
 
So your saying the rev limiter should limit the rpms, not completly shut it down? This is my root problem, it is shutting down at 3/4 to full throttle in forward and reverse, by shutting down I'm mean like someone pulled the kill switch, no sputtering out then fires with zero effort. I'm pretty sure the last owner bas disconnected the yel/ blk rev limiter connection because it doesn't function, when it's plugged in it fires bit won't start
 
Sometimes the triggers break down at higher RPMs.
Try either leaving the boat on the trailer or tied firmly to the dock and check the spark on each cylinder.
You have checked the compression, yes?
Also you seem to be using two threads and that makes it a bit of a PITA and hard to follow and also of less help to others who read and follow especially later on.
Choose one thread and stay with it.
 
Will do, thank you, I'd did the compression test, 140,140,130, how would I go about testing spark?
 
Clamp your timing on each lead in turn. I had a bad trigger coil that dropped out at higher RPM.
 
Clamp your timing on each lead in turn. I had a bad trigger coil that dropped out at higher RPM.
Figured I believe, I took off the fly wheel and 1 magnet not attached and on was missing half, I hope this was my issue, any thoughts on where I can get magnets??
 
I have looked for old Force outboard parts. The Force engine is what is in the Mercury Sport Jet. Lots of old outboards out there.
I got a set that had come loose from the flywheel from a 120.
. If one is loose they will all come loose. I think what happens is that moisture gets between the magnets and rusts and then the magnets turn loose.
I glue them in with JB Weld.
Look on Craigslist and Facebook marketplace and eBay etc.
I just bought a 120 hp 1997 flywheel to get the CDM setup, but found that the center taper was larger ans they changes that from the earlier 90s and 120s with the CDI.
As a result I have a flywheel that I can't use in like new condition that I paid $100 for. The magnets are good. I don't know how hard it would be to remove them.
 
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