RideSteady question RE: cavitation

[Ribs77]

Hey all,

I'm looking at adding RideSteady for next season as I'm still in search of a reliable surf wave.

I do plan on loading the boat down heavily with ballast as I've done before, and I noticed that - when I had a less experienced driver at the helm - the boat was cavitating a little bit trying to tow me up to speed. It was able to achieve the speed I wanted without cavitation, but it took a little careful feathering along the way.

If I have RideSteady installed, I'm hoping that less experienced drivers will be able to just push the throttle forward without worrying about possible cavitation, but is that something I'd need the auto-launch feature for?

If, for example, I got the version without auto-launch, and the driver pushed the throttle all the way forward right away, will the boat simply cavitate even with RideSteady installed? Or does the base version account for that type of throttle behavior by default?

Thanks in advance!

 

[2kwik4u]

You want to fix the cavitation problem. Beyond just drivability, it has some wear and equipment longevity implications as well. Seal the intake tunnel and smooth the leading edge of the impellers to start. It'll take you an afternoon and $20 or so if you're handy.

Here's where I sealed my intake tunnel. Single best effort for reducing cavitation.

From there, in terms of RideSteady; we should let them respond. They're users here @Ridesteady

 

[Ribs77]

Here's where I sealed my intake tunnel. Single best effort for reducing cavitation.

Is there meant to be a pic? Not showing up for me for some reason.

So, the cavitation only occurs under very hard acceleration and/or heavy loads. Like, I probably was exceeding the recommended max load and the dude driving the boat was punching it.

With general use I don't usually get cavitation - do you think it's likely that I have some sealing issues anyway?

Like, for example, should I be able to fully punch it and not experience any cavitation? If so, then maybe I have a problem because I do feel like I can't do a FULL SEND on each launch without that "peeling out" sound/feeling. (For what it's worth, when that happens I always back off immediately.)

 

[2kwik4u]

Is there meant to be a pic? Not showing up for me for some reason.

So, the cavitation only occurs under very hard acceleration and/or heavy loads. Like, I probably was exceeding the recommended max load and the dude driving the boat was punching it.

With general use I don't usually get cavitation - do you think it's likely that I have some sealing issues anyway?

Like, for example, should I be able to fully punch it and not experience any cavitation? If so, then maybe I have a problem because I do feel like I can't do a FULL SEND on each launch without that "peeling out" sound/feeling. (For what it's worth, when that happens I always back off immediately.)

Sorry, link didn't come through (I likely forgot to paste it). Hero or Zero?......"Resealed" my Jet Pump

You should be able to "hammer down" or "Full Send" from a dead stop without cavitation. I can have 8 people, with coolers and gear for the day and do a "full send" and just barely kiss the rev limiter on that initial hit. Only real mods I have to the driveline are a ribbon delete, sealed intake tunnel, and Lucky 13 Pump Cone. I've never even had the impeller out of my boat since new, and it doesn't slip hardly at all.

Now, I have a 190, not a 195, so it's still somewhat slow to plane with a huge load like that. I rarely, if ever, hit the rev limiter on my boat, and I "hammer down" coming out of the no wake zone almost every time. I mean, it's a 190, it's what we do

 

[AZMark]

Get auto launch either way. It’s <10% more cost and gives you a much more user friendly system for inexperienced drivers.

Edit: I shouldn’t even say inexperienced - it just makes the launches much easier, smoother and more predictable for anyone driving/riding. Its extremely adjustable.
Auto launch being optional is probably just for people that aren’t doing water sports at all.

 

[Ribs77]

Sorry, link didn't come through (I likely forgot to paste it). Hero or Zero?......"Resealed" my Jet Pump

You should be able to "hammer down" or "Full Send" from a dead stop without cavitation. I can have 8 people, with coolers and gear for the day and do a "full send" and just barely kiss the rev limiter on that initial hit. Only real mods I have to the driveline are a ribbon delete, sealed intake tunnel, and Lucky 13 Pump Cone. I've never even had the impeller out of my boat since new, and it doesn't slip hardly at all.

Now, I have a 190, not a 195, so it's still somewhat slow to plane with a huge load like that. I rarely, if ever, hit the rev limiter on my boat, and I "hammer down" coming out of the no wake zone almost every time. I mean, it's a 190, it's what we do

Got it! I'm pretty handy but that looks like a sticky job

I'll definitely check under the boat and see how things are looking in the spring. I thought I read somewhere that removing the grate was kind of a no-no, but it sounds like that's not the case?

 

[Jdz1]

My 2024 fsh 195 cavitated since new to where I had to back off the throttle just as you describe, I sealed the the pump tunnel, yamaha did a horrible job can't believe they leave the factory like that. Sealing did not cure the problem. Installed a lucky 13 cone recently it did the trick and can hammer the throttle and it just accelerates hard with no cavitation.

 

[2kwik4u]

Got it! I'm pretty handy but that looks like a sticky job

I'll definitely check under the boat and see how things are looking in the spring. I thought I read somewhere that removing the grate was kind of a no-no, but it sounds like that's not the case?

Yea, you'll make a mess. Just accept your fate, wear long sleeves and gloves. Eye protection, wear that too. It's super easy, just messy as dammit.

My boat was delivered with a broken grate. I've had it off 2-3 times since then. Just reseal the holes when you put it back together, should be no big deal. NOW....the Ride Plate (larger metal piece glued to the hull. THAT is the thing you don't want to take off.

 

[Ribs77]

Yea, you'll make a mess. Just accept your fate, wear long sleeves and gloves. Eye protection, wear that too. It's super easy, just messy as dammit.

My boat was delivered with a broken grate. I've had it off 2-3 times since then. Just reseal the holes when you put it back together, should be no big deal. NOW....the Ride Plate (larger metal piece glued to the hull. THAT is the thing you don't want to take off.

Re-seal the holes, like... put the silicone sealant in the screw holes and then screw in? You can get them back out again after that?

 

[2kwik4u]

Re-seal the holes, like... put the silicone sealant in the screw holes and then screw in? You can get them back out again after that?

Exactly.

Dab of silicone or similar sealant on the hole/mating surface, then thread in holes and torque to spec (or make them good and tight using 4-Ugga-Duggas). It'll come back apart just fine.

You want sealant, not glue or adhesive. There's a difference.

 

[Ridesteady]

Hey all,

I'm looking at adding RideSteady for next season as I'm still in search of a reliable surf wave.

I do plan on loading the boat down heavily with ballast as I've done before, and I noticed that - when I had a less experienced driver at the helm - the boat was cavitating a little bit trying to tow me up to speed. It was able to achieve the speed I wanted without cavitation, but it took a little careful feathering along the way.

If I have RideSteady installed, I'm hoping that less experienced drivers will be able to just push the throttle forward without worrying about possible cavitation, but is that something I'd need the auto-launch feature for?

If, for example, I got the version without auto-launch, and the driver pushed the throttle all the way forward right away, will the boat simply cavitate even with RideSteady installed? Or does the base version account for that type of throttle behavior by default?

Thanks in advance!

Thanks for your interest in Ridesteady, @Ribs77.

As @AZMark noted, it would be best to get Auto Launch for your application. With Auto Launch, after you've gone through the calibration process, you can just push the throttle full forward and it will ramp up to the set speed at the acceleration you select. Without it, if you push the throttle full forward, you'll be at full throttle until you approach the set speed. So, if you have cavitation issues in a full throttle from start scenario, you'll have them with Ridesteady as well.

I'm happy to answer any other questions you have!

 

[Ribs77]

Thank you, appreciate the info!

 

[Ribs77]

Yea, you'll make a mess. Just accept your fate, wear long sleeves and gloves. Eye protection, wear that too. It's super easy, just messy as dammit.

My boat was delivered with a broken grate. I've had it off 2-3 times since then. Just reseal the holes when you put it back together, should be no big deal. NOW....the Ride Plate (larger metal piece glued to the hull. THAT is the thing you don't want to take off.

Finally got under the boat (was out at the farm for the holidays so I could visit the boat in the barn) and took a look.

Hard to tell. Current sealing looks...OK-ish? There are some barnacles and whatnot, maybe cleaning all the surfaces would help?

Everything look generally OK here?

 

[Ribs77]

FWIW the cleanout plug cap is just sitting loosely in the hole, that's why it doesn't look sealed at all.

 

[2kwik4u]

I would sand/clean those surfaces. The corrosion/barnacles aren't likely the problem, but it won't hurt to clean it off and smooth it down.

More importantly I would reseal the connections. I've circled a few places in the image below that could be causing some issues. In particular the spot on the left there looks like it could be sucking air in past the seal. The two further aft just look like sharp edges that could be disturbing flow. Impeller leading edges look good though.

Hopefully someone else will confirm/deny my suspicions here.

 

[AZMark]

Bad cavitation usually leaves marks on your impeller and I don’t see that. The little bit of sealing you can see in the picture also looks like it was done decently.

Reading @2kwik4u post he is also experiencing temporary cavitation if he’s hitting the rev limiter while not going 40+mph.

A limited amount is unavoidable but what you described about the boat struggling to get you up to speed seems like it would be major cavitation. Maybe something else was going on that day.

 

[AZMark]

I would sand/clean those surfaces. The corrosion/barnacles aren't likely the problem, but it won't hurt to clean it off and smooth it down.

More importantly I would reseal the connections. I've circled a few places in the image below that could be causing some issues. In particular the spot on the left there looks like it could be sucking air in past the seal. The two further aft just look like sharp edges that could be disturbing flow. Impeller leading edges look good though.

Hopefully someone else will confirm/deny my suspicions here.

View attachment 230036

I missed those holes, that one on the left does look pretty big.

 

[Ribs77]

Yeah, I haven't had major cavitation issues, only when the boat is loaded to the gills with ballast or on super choppy days, generally.

But for surfing next year, I got the 650lb. transom bag and plan on using that with an additional 400lb. bag in the locker area, plus 3-4 people on board. I'll be fully loaded to make the best wave possible

Thanks for the tips - I'll definitely hit those spots with sealant and try to smooth out the surfaces in there. I figure I'll start with the toilet bowl cleaner on the barnacle surfaces and then maybe a magic eraser if there are any remnants?

I know the magic erasers use mechanical friction - a bit like an extremely high grit sandpaper - but you mentioned that I should 'sand' the areas in here... Is the magic eraser going to be an OK tool for that?

 

[2kwik4u]

Yeah, I haven't had major cavitation issues, only when the boat is loaded to the gills with ballast or on super choppy days, generally.

But for surfing next year, I got the 650lb. transom bag and plan on using that with an additional 400lb. bag in the locker area, plus 3-4 people on board. I'll be fully loaded to make the best wave possible

Thanks for the tips - I'll definitely hit those spots with sealant and try to smooth out the surfaces in there. I figure I'll start with the toilet bowl cleaner on the barnacle surfaces and then maybe a magic eraser if there are any remnants?

I know the magic erasers use mechanical friction - a bit like an extremely high grit sandpaper - but you mentioned that I should 'sand' the areas in here... Is the magic eraser going to be an OK tool for that?

You can sand them, lightly. Just don't want deep gouges.

I doubt the magic eraser does anything.