Scupper

[maboat]

Ooops, looks like Mel and I had a posting collision

He is probably right about the difference in the kill switches between model years. I've never worried about re-caulking the tray when I reinstalled it.

 

[Implosion]

Great info, thanks!!!

 

[PEARCE]

I'm in the middle of trying to get mine done. I've removed all of the screws holding the tray down and was in the process of removing the lid cables when I got called away and haven't gotten back to it. My tray was not caulked down and I don't intend to when I put it all back together. While taking the screws out I noticed I have at least one completely stripped out. I'm sure I'm not the only one! I also have some chipping away of the gelcoat around some of the holes. Do I need to address those or just leave them be? They've been there the entire time under the tray and never knew about it till now. I hope to get it all squared away this weekend.

 

[Implosion]

Keep me posted and some photos would be great. I can't get started until the weekend after April 15th.

 

[Gym]

I'm in the middle of trying to get mine done. I've removed all of the screws holding the tray down and was in the process of removing the lid cables when I got called away and haven't gotten back to it. My tray was not caulked down and I don't intend to when I put it all back together. While taking the screws out I noticed I have at least one completely stripped out. I'm sure I'm not the only one! I also have some chipping away of the gelcoat around some of the holes. Do I need to address those or just leave them be? They've been there the entire time under the tray and never knew about it till now. I hope to get it all squared away this weekend.

@PEARCE I have the same boat with the same situation. My tray was not caulked and I have a couple of stripped screws with a little chipping. Those issues are not problems. You can use some 4200 or 5200 caulk to fill the holes where the stripped screws are, then rescrew into those holes after the caulk sets up. The screw will bite but not as good as the non stripped screws will so don't use too much torque. I also don't intend to caulk the tray down as it just makes removal more difficult in the future.

 

[PEARCE]

With a little reassuring phone call to @maboat last night I got a little more than 2\3's of the way through this chore. I already had all the screws out of the clean out tray and was ready to lift it out. I had to undo the hose clamp for the tray drain hose and I was able to set it off to the side. The safety switches for the lid are attached to the tray on this series of 230's. I have enough wire so I didn't need to disconnect them to move the tray out of the way. I then saw what was in the way of getting to the scupper and wasn't sure how to proceed. So I called maboat since he recently did this chore and we have the same boat. He told me how to go about removing the water box that is in the dead center of the farthest rear bilge. I had the same issue as he with the exhaust hose stuck on the waterbox at the elbow. Once I was able to pry that off I could then see the drain hose attached to the old scupper. I almost couldn't get the waterbox completely out so it's going to be a lot of fun getting it back in. I was then able to get the drain hose off the old scupper. After that is when I came to my next road block. I have a large set of channel lock pliers that fit the 2 inch nut, but were to turn once in position to turn the nut. I then called my neighbor who had just gotten home to see if he possibly had a tool that would work. He just happened to have an adjustable, square pipe wrench. It worked perfectly! We got the old one out of the way and dry fitted the new one. With enough sealant I could probably get by without grinding, but I asked him if he happened to have a grinder. Sure enough he did. We made the marks on the scupper and with a quick touch on the grinder it was ready to go on. This is one awesome neighbor! I've gotta do something for to return the favor. He really saved me a lot of time and aggravation having the proper tools.

Now that I'm ready to put everything back together I still need the proper sealant. I have some marine Amazing Goop silicone adhesive and sealant that's never been used. Y'all think that could work? What has everybody used or plans to use? Plan to finish up in the next few days. I'll take some pics as I'm reassembling.

 

[Lspeedss]

I feel for ya..by far the most difficult thing I've done so far..I used RTV. I would say you are good with Goop. Help yourself on reassembly by wiping some dish soap on the inside of the exhaust rubber when you go to slide it back together.. Good luck.

 

[PEARCE]

Thanks for the dish soap tip!

 

[Lspeedss]

PITA...still scratched up on both arms.lol

 

[Dave]

With a little reassuring phone call to @maboatNow that I'm ready to put everything back together I still need the proper sealant. I have some marine Amazing Goop silicone adhesive and sealant that's never been used. Y'all think that could work? What has everybody used or plans to use? Plan to finish up in the next few days. I'll take some pics as I'm reassembling.

I used LifeCaulk as suggested by someone (can't remember off the top of my head) on this site.
X2 on the dish and scratched up arms lol

 

[maboat]

Near as I can tell, the Yamaha factory used RTV Silicone, so that's what I used. I've used the same stuff before on other below-the-water fittings and haven't had an issue with it yet.

 

[Gym]

I used Life Caulk as it has a longer working time than 3M 4200. Don't forget to check all your clamps before you replace the clean out hatch. Don't just look at them. Put a socket wrench on them and put a little torque on them. Any that are weak or broken will be evident.

 

[jlcj7]

As big of a problem as this seems to be, does anyone have a step by step (with pictures) diagram of this procedure? Like the one out there for oil change? I am now thinking i need to do this, but i am more of a visual person and would love to see the process in pictures. If not, maybe i will try to take some pics and document mine when i get around to it...

 

[PEARCE]

I'm planning to take pics as I put everything back together this weekend. I briefly thought about taking pics as I as taking everything apart the other night, but I was focused on getting the old one out before I needed to call it a night. My old plastic one is still in great shape by the way.

 

[PEARCE]

Finally done.

What a PITA this chore was! It's done though and all put back together. I can now finish waxing the other half of the boat and hope for some free time and a nice weekend to happen at the same time.

 

[Lspeedss]

Good for you..I'm glad its over for you too.

 

[itsdgm]

Glad you got it done. The fiberglass rash will heal up in no time.

 

[maboat]

Today i filled up the bilge with water to make sure my new scupper install is leak-free. Happy to say new scupper is fine but i found a small leak on another fitting below the waterline.

Its snother plastic piece so i wondered if was cracked. I yanked on it and it felt solid so I guess Ill justvtry to reseal it

I dont recall anybody mentioning this fitting failing before so I thought Id mention it. If the plastic fails its not as big as the scupper but still a hole below waterline that should be checked

 

[Lspeedss]

@maboat . What does that connect to on the inside? I don't recall seeing that on mine. But I will check.

 

[jcyamaharider]

I think it is the clean out tray drain, but I could be wrong.