SI transducer mount on 2018 Yamaha 242X

[jpkl]

FYI for fellow Yamaha boaters... if this can help you, here are pics showing my Side Imaging transducer mounting for a Humminbird SOLIX on a 242X. Yes, this boat WILL Do It ALL! Removed the ride plate, drilled 4 holes to mount a piece of 3x4" rectangular aluminum tube.

 

[AJack]

Did you mount it that low for the side imaging to clear the keel? Lots of reviews about place state that mounting the transducer low can create a rooster tail, have you had a chance to take it on the water?

 

[Julian]

@jpkl Do you get any spray after mounting it like this? I'm looking to mount a Garmin GT transducer...it says to mount in line with the bottom of the boat....

 

[jpkl]

At speed there is just a very small hint of spray. When I have lots of ballast loaded and aft is way down in water there is just small spray (1 ft) comes up.

 

[Julian]

At speed there is just a very small hint of spray. When I have lots of ballast loaded and aft is way down in water there is just small spray (1 ft) comes up.

And it works great at speed??

Where did you get the perfect piece of aluminum from????? This looks like the best mounting option I've seen!

 

[jpkl]

Ordered a Custom Cut piece of 3x4" aluminum rectangle tubing from Metals Depot online: cost 32.75
I drilled my mounting holes in tubing, ride plate, bolted up. I made the modification inset cut for the transducer mount location (wasn't too bad with limited tools I have; would be easier and a little cleaner if you have more true shop tools at your disposal... a band saw and standup drill would have been nice). The mount really seems to have no effect on the boat/handling. You can always adjust your transducer angle if you find it is spraying. I went with 3x4" to make sure the SI feature is low enough to shoot past the keel and it works 100% but this does drop the transducer almost 3/4" below the keel line lowest point. I have found no need to remove leading edge of the mount/reduce the side of tubing to have less exposure when turning, but it could be done easily if one found it might help; or you could move the transducer mounting holes higher in the tubing if desired also.

 

[Marine28]

How transducer cable entered the boat

 

[Julian]

Ordered a Custom Cut piece of 3x4" aluminum rectangle tubing from Metals Depot online: cost 32.75
I drilled my mounting holes in tubing, ride plate, bolted up. I made the modification inset cut for the transducer mount location (wasn't too bad with limited tools I have; would be easier and a little cleaner if you have more true shop tools at your disposal... a band saw and standup drill would have been nice). The mount really seems to have no effect on the boat/handling. You can always adjust your transducer angle if you find it is spraying. I went with 3x4" to make sure the SI feature is low enough to shoot past the keel and it works 100% but this does drop the transducer almost 3/4" below the keel line lowest point. I have found no need to remove leading edge of the mount/reduce the side of tubing to have less exposure when turning, but it could be done easily if one found it might help; or you could move the transducer mounting holes higher in the tubing if desired also.
View attachment 96519

How quickly were they able to get it to you?

 

[Julian]

@jpkl what is the inside width of that? My bracket needs just 1.5". I might order a longer piece so I could angle the leading edges to avoid it catching on something??

 

[Julian]

Removed the ride plate, drilled 4 holes to mount a piece of 3x4" rectangular aluminum tube.

Also, how easy was it to get the ride plate off? (sorry for all the questions!)

 

[Chuckz21]

Mine is mounted in the same spot. I run the Raymarine WiFish. Pretty nice cause I can use a tablet or my phone when I want without a permanent mounted screen works at speed with little to no roster tale. It also works in conjunction with the navionics app and displays both map and sonar at the same time. All in between tablet and wifish about $250 setup. That I've used not only used on this boat but for years on my sx190 as well. Has been a great setup.

 

[jpkl]

How quickly were they able to get it to you?

within a week

 

[jpkl]

How transducer cable entered the boat

i ran the cable vertical along the inside wall of the center hull pod, drilled a hole in the upper curve where the platform is part of the hull, drilled hole in stopper, cut thru one side of big rubber stopper, placed the cable in the slot/hole. I also put a slight 1/4 - 3/8 groove around the mid of/circumference of the stopper to get it to better grip the hull once inserted thru. Used marine silicone around outer edge and also from inside the hull to seal. No leaks/no issues.

 

[jpkl]

Also, how easy was it to get the ride plate off? (sorry for all the questions!)

not too bad. having a set of long allen hex keys is good; speed handle keys even better. be sure to put new sealant around the hull side of the ride plate holes when reattaching to prevent a leak. also be sure to leave clearance away from side of the mount tube sidewall for the ride plate bolt that goes next to it thru the rideplate. I got mine a bit too close and had to grind a bit of the bolt head edge off to get it to go in the rideplate hole... bit of pain.

 

[jpkl]

@jpkl what is the inside width of that? My bracket needs just 1.5". I might order a longer piece so I could angle the leading edges to avoid it catching on something??

if your transducer has different mount dimensions you may be able to go with narrower tubing. you will need a thru-bolt long enough for the application also. reducing the leading edge or curving, etc. are all possibilities; even cutting out 3/4 of one side of the tubing is possible. I went with easiest and strongest option first; no performance issues noted so sticking with it as is i guess unless i see need to modify further.

 

[Julian]

So looking at what you guys did, what I have available, and the shape/size of my transducer, I may do something similar, but perhaps without the aluminum.

Looking at the spot I have (will actually be the other side, but easier to photograph this side right now), I will likely go in a similar spot as you guys, but think I will move it forward to the front of the ride plate.



As you can see from this image, it would be a little high still and the side view might be reduced some, so I was thinking I might add a starboard block (that I have laying around) to lower it some more).



I just cut a couple of slices and taped them together for eyeball purposes....this is what I was thinking.....(anyone know what kind of glue I can use to permanently join king starboard?)

The only thing I need to check on this is the rudder swing....I don't think it goes far enough to hit the transducer...but I will have to check on that. Also, I'd round off that leading edge so water flows over it more smoothly.

Thoughts/opinions?

 

[jpkl]

You’ll lose virtually all of the SI on the keel side if you mount anywhere near that high.

 

[Julian]

My mark9 eyeball thinks I shouldn't lose too much if any on the keel side. It's hard to find and read the specs of the GT51 , but it isnt a 180 degree scan. My eyeball has the cutoff at about 20 degrees....I'll have to see if I can find some exact angle specs. Yours is about 1 inch lower than my last image...I could probably drop it a little more....

 

[jpkl]

Mine is mounted in the same spot. I run the Raymarine WiFish. Pretty nice cause I can use a tablet or my phone when I want without a permanent mounted screen works at speed with little to no roster tale. It also works in conjunction with the navionics app and displays both map and sonar at the same time. All in between tablet and wifish about $250 setup. That I've used not only used on this boat but for years on my sx190 as well. Has been a great setup.

so about your transom lights... how long have they been on? any issues? happy with them? color? how much light do you get at the boat corners? do you have any pics of them on/in water?

 

[Julian]

First of all, while in Bimini, we will be mostly using traditional sonar as we'll be fishing for bottom fish as deep as the sonar will go (600-800' deep - claims 1800' but they say to half the claimed depth to get to real useable depth), so the mounting position above will be fine for that.

But that doesn't mean I wouldn't like to use the side view at some point. Can anyone translate their side view beamwidth specs to something I get? Does this mean that it will shoot from 2 degrees from the surface down to 51 degrees?

Garmin's Beamwidth specs for my GT51M-TM/TH/THP transducer:

When using ClearVü or SideVü:

• CHIRP 260 kHz, 2.0° x 51°, oval pattern
• CHIRP 455 kHz, 1.4° x 29°, oval pattern

When using Traditional sonar:

• CHIRP 80-160 kHz, 24°-13°; cone pattern