Solenoid diagnosis and replacement

[FLJetBoater]

So I’m trying to get in and diagnose the solenoid. Can someone please tell me if what I’m doing is necessary? It seems like an excruciating amount of work.
First, electrical boxes are bolted from the clean out hatch through. You have to hold the bolt to take the nut off so you either need 2 people or the ability to balance a wrench on it perfectly and not have it fly off when it’s spinning around while you’re undoing the nut.
Then once you have those 4 bolts out the solenoid is bolted from the back of the electrical box. Again, why from the back?? If they had just put the 4 bolts for the solenoid in the front, all this could be done without removing the box at all. Am I missing something?

 

[Beachbummer]

What boat do you have? Some have a small window in the electrical box that expose the solenoid terminals for troubleshooting without having to detach the whole box.

Do you see a small cover that could be removed with 4 screws?

 

[FLJetBoater]

I have a 2014 242 LS. Don’t see anything like that?

 

[FLJetBoater]

I finally got it all off, but this doesn’t even look like the solenoid pictures I’ve seen, doesn’t appear to be anywhere to jump it?

 

[FLJetBoater]

I finally got it all off, but this doesn’t even look like the solenoid pictures I’ve seen, doesn’t appear to be anywhere to jump it?

Duh....pulled back the black rubber and there they were. Jumped them and engine turned right over.

so, anyone in Tampa/Clearwater area have a spare solenoid? Everywhere is closed ugghhh

 

[FLJetBoater]

My wife called 42 places. 3 had them. Closest was 2 hours away. Just got back, installed it and fired right up. I was thinking of either finding a different electrical box (is that possible) that would enable access to the solenoid, or installing a permanent remote starter switch on to the solenoid so that if this happens again and I’m 20 miles from home i can at least jump it and get going. Anyone ever done something like that?

 

[tdonoughue]

Haven't heard of that, but doesn't seem like it would be a problem.

That said, how much of your time was finding the right thing and how much was actually getting to it and jumping it once you knew were it was? I would suggest that your time running a new switch up to the helm will probably exceed all the times (from now on) when you might need to do this, because now you know where it is and how to do it you should have it jumped in 5 min if you have a nut driver and a section of wire on board.

 

[FLJetBoater]

Haven't heard of that, but doesn't seem like it would be a problem.

That said, how much of your time was finding the right thing and how much was actually getting to it and jumping it once you knew were it was? I would suggest that your time running a new switch up to the helm will probably exceed all the times (from now on) when you might need to do this, because now you know where it is and how to do it you should have it jumped in 5 min if you have a nut driver and a section of wire on board.

The main issue is that the electrical box is extremely extremely difficult to take off with 1 person. You need 1 person in the clean out hatch (completely removed, not just the little pull out portion) holding the bolt and another person in the engine compartment taking off the nuts. So you need 2 #17 box wrenches or sockets on board to be able to do that. Then once that’s off you can remove the 6 bolts on the back of the electrical box (#10 socket) to free the front portion and see the solenoid. Then you could jump it, with a loose electrical box and solenoid compartment hanging in the engine compartment. Bolt everything back together and be on your way. I would estimate with 2 people that it would take no less than 45 minutes to do that the next time, having all tools available. Never mind reaching into the engine compartment, while it’s running, to reattach the electrical box with live wires.

there is no way someone is jumping the solenoid in a 2014 242 in 5 minutes. If so, they could make a fortune as a Yamaha mechanic lol.

I would not run it to the helm, I would leave it in the engine bay as an emergency switch, mounted somewhere.

the one part that concerns me is the solenoid is completely encased, seemingly to protect from water. If I had to run wires out of there I’d have to drill a hole with maybe some rubber inserts to be sure no water could intrude. I’m assuming that’s why it was built the way it was, to minimize water intrusion.

but this whole electrical box/solenoid design is ridiculous. No wonder they added the window and have much easier access in newer models

 

[tdonoughue]

Oh, its on the back--sorry, I missed that. I thought from something in an earlier post that you had taken the box off (I do recall your describing how you needed 2 people), but then I thought you had concluded it was not needed and you could get to it the other way. But now it makes more sense. I probably just misread something.

I still wonder how frequently you would need to do this. You are exactly correct about the waterproof box issues. I know those red wires are in the box. Do they come out somewhere so you could 'tap' into them to short them? Of course, by 'tap', I mean (given the amperage) probably cut them and wire them to a waterproof momentary switch with which you could short them out...

 

[FLJetBoater]

Oh, its on the back--sorry, I missed that. I thought from something in an earlier post that you had taken the box off (I do recall your describing how you needed 2 people), but then I thought you had concluded it was not needed and you could get to it the other way. But now it makes more sense. I probably just misread something.

I still wonder how frequently you would need to do this. You are exactly correct about the waterproof box issues. I know those red wires are in the box. Do they come out somewhere so you could 'tap' into them to short them? Of course, by 'tap', I mean (given the amperage) probably cut them and wire them to a waterproof momentary switch with which you could short them out...

Yeah I suppose so. Tow valves might be a better investment I could always limp back on 1 engine at 15-20mph in that case.

 

[tdonoughue]

Actually, it is my experience with tow valves that prompts my comment. I thought they were a great idea and installed them... 6? years ago. Haven't used them one time. In retrospect, for the time that I spent researching, planning, getting the parts, installing them--I should have just gotten a hose clamp.

 

[FLJetBoater]

Actually, it is my experience with tow valves that prompts my comment. I thought they were a great idea and installed them... 6? years ago. Haven't used them one time. In retrospect, for the time that I spent researching, planning, getting the parts, installing them--I should have just gotten a hose clamp.

That’s also interesting. Maybe that’s all I need to do then. Find a good plastic toolbox and keep some simple stuff in there like plastic hose clamps. I do know my winter project this year is going to be replacing all the hose connections, many are rusting out as well as a check valve on my swim platform drain. I am almost 100% positive I’m getting water intake there as almost every time out with a weighed down boat my plugs have water on top of them, sometimes the tubes are full. The water is definitely not coming over the 2nd level platform, it has to be coming in through that drain.

 

[tdonoughue]

Replacing rusted stuff and the check valve seem to me like much more worthwhile endeavors. At least you know you will be using those every time out. Just my perspective...

 

[FLJetBoater]

Replacing rusted stuff and the check valve seem to me like much more worthwhile endeavors. At least you know you will be using those every time out. Just my perspective...

Sounds like a plan. Thanks for talking some sense in to me

 

[tdonoughue]

Happy to (try to) help.