Speaker Layout and Recommendations

[Wrecked Rooster]

Which setup would y’all recommend, or feel free to suggest something different or a combo of the below. AR 210.

Option 1:

• Replace 4 factory speakers with 6.5’s
• Install 2 subs under the bench

Option 2:

• Replace 4 factory speakers with 8’s
• Install 1 sub under bench (maybe another later)

Obviously, 4 stock speakers have to be replaced at their locations, but the sub(s) can be installed anywhere. They are free air. Figured one or both under the bench, tucked away.

I’m open to any and all suggestions. Especially from those that have audio experience with the 210. Thanks!

 

[212s]

Obviously, 4 stock speakers have to be replaced at their locations, but the sub(s) can be installed anywhere. They are free air. Figured one or both under the bench, tucked away.

If you want to put in 2 subs, you should put them on opposing sides to distribute the sound pressure. In an enclosed environment like a car, you can put subs about anywhere, but in an open boat they need to be central and/or distributed around the boat. Not sure if there's room to put a 10" sub on the starboard side due to the wiring harness, steering and throttle cables though?

The easiest option is to replace the stock speakers with 6.5" as that means no cutting - just replace and re-wire to a new amp. With just 4 speakers, I don't think you need more than one sub anyway.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

I wouldn't bother with moving up to 8s.

I would do two subs and tower speakers (or soundbar)... then later replace the 6.5s.

 

[shnknapp]

I'm not familiar with the speaker brand on the AR210 but on our 212SD, they were factory WetSounds and once the factory amp HTX-4 was replaced with the non-tuned HTX-6, it was a great improvement and any thought of replacing the speakers went out the door.

Though if they are not great speakers, the easiest solution is to direct replace with the same size.

As far as a sub, we went with a 10'' and mounted it on the starboard side to the lower right of the throttle and mounted a gain control knob in the storage cubby.

 

[212s]

I'm not familiar with the speaker brand on the AR210

From what I've read I believe they're paper-cone Jensen speakers run off the head unit. For good sound he'll definitely want to swap them out with something better and add an amp.

As far as a sub, we went with a 10'' and mounted it on the starboard side to the lower right of the throttle and mounted a gain control knob in the storage cubby.

Did you have any issues with cable routing getting in the way?

 

[shnknapp]

From what I've read I believe they're paper-cone Jensen speakers run off the head unit. For good sound he'll definitely want to swap them out with something better and add an amp.
If that's the case, yes replace the speakers and add an amp.

Did you have any issues with cable routing getting in the way?

No obstructions at all. Wiring the Sub was simple as the amp is mounted in the storage locker in front of the helm so a nice quick and easy 5 foot run.

 

[Caudio18]

If you got somewhat decent factory speakers (not Jensen paper cones), buy an amp turn on the HP crossover and you will notice so much more improvement over swapping in some new speakers of any size.

 

[Wrecked Rooster]

@adrianp89 @Caudio18 @shnknapp

@212s is right. They are cheap speakers. I bought some 6.5 skars but not sure if I should have went with something different. They seem well built, but I don’t have anything to compare them to except the factory speakers. Big difference as you can see in the pic.

 

[212s]

They are cheap speakers. I bought some 6.5 skars but not sure if I should have went with something different.

As mentioned, anything with a real amp behind them will perform better.

But having said that, these Skar speakers are not good, with cheap paper-cone drivers...that's right, PAPER cone drivers...totally not good for a marine environment. You need poly-cone drivers of some sort minimum, even for car speakers due to humidity level changes. No offense but I wouldn't pay $10 a pair for these speakers. Personally I suggest you return them and buy any reasonably good name brand speakers - Alpine, JBL, Kenwood, Kicker, Pioneer, etc.
YMMV

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

In that price range the Kickers are a suitable replacement.

Please note, how a speaker looks compared to another has nothing to do with how either perform.

What is your budget looking like?

 

[Wrecked Rooster]

In that price range the Kickers are a suitable replacement.

Please note, how a speaker looks compared to another has nothing to do with how either perform.

What is your budget looking like?

I'd like to keep it under $1k for inside the boat. I don't mind cutting holes in the boat. And I think I have all the OFC tinned copper I need already to do the project. From multiple people, it sounds like adding 2 speakers to the middle of the boat (as I believe you did on your 210) would help a lot. If I ever decide to go with tower speakers, I planned on doing the 9" horns from Kicker. That would be next year, if at all.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

Yeah for 1k you could almost replace all 4, add 2 in the center, 2 subs and amps.

Great for in the boat, but out of the boat it was lacking. That is why I recommended the towers.

 

[Wrecked Rooster]

Yeah for 1k you could almost replace all 4, add 2 in the center, 2 subs and amps.

Great for in the boat, but out of the boat it was lacking. That is why I recommended the towers.

For real? I can't keep it under $1k with just going with 4 kicker speakers, a single sub and an amp. And that's looking for the best price I can find with coupons and deals. Plan was inside the boat speakers this year for $1k. And the towers next year if the JBL boombox I have doesn't work for outside the boat when anchored.

*Edit. I lied, I can do 4 kicker 6.5's, a 10" kicker sub (or JL older model, same specs as new) and an amp to run them all for around $900. Leaving no room for the mid speakers, plus I'd have to buy a more powerful amp to help drive the additional speakers.

 

[usmc6175]

Following

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

Kicker 6.5" White Marine Speakers (QTY-4) 2 pairs of OEM replacement speakers 4 Kicker Speakers - $185
Replace 2 Skars with 2 Kickers - $0
2 JL subs - $340 - JL Audio MX10IB3-SG-CR Marine 10-inch Subwoofer: Black, with Chrome Sport Grille, OEM brown box package, Black Badge Only
Amp - $450 - Kicker 48KMA6006 KMA600.6 6x100w 6-Ch Weather-Resistant Full-Range Amplifier
Wiring - $75
Total - $1050

This will leave you a little under powered for the subs, but gets you ready for towers in the future.

In this instance, I would bridge two speaker pairs, run on on its on, then bridge 2 for the subs. Then when ready for the towers, move the towers to where the subs are and get a dedicated sub amp. Of course if you are really trying to drive the interior speakers to be loud as possible then this won't work as you need more power. But you have to pay to play lol

 

[Wrecked Rooster]

Kicker 6.5" White Marine Speakers (QTY-4) 2 pairs of OEM replacement speakers 4 Kicker Speakers - $185
Replace 2 Skars with 2 Kickers - $0
2 JL subs - $340 - JL Audio MX10IB3-SG-CR Marine 10-inch Subwoofer: Black, with Chrome Sport Grille, OEM brown box package, Black Badge Only
Amp - $450 - Kicker 48KMA6006 KMA600.6 6x100w 6-Ch Weather-Resistant Full-Range Amplifier
Wiring - $75
Total - $1050

This will leave you a little under powered for the subs, but gets you ready for towers in the future.

In this instance, I would bridge two speaker pairs, run on on its on, then bridge 2 for the subs. Then when ready for the towers, move the towers to where the subs are and get a dedicated sub amp. Of course if you are really trying to drive the interior speakers to be loud as possible then this won't work as you need more power. But you have to pay to play lol

Wouldn't bridging the amp put it at 4 ohms but running the speakers in parallel make them 2 ohm? New to this and want to understand. Reading these specs:

• Power [watts/ch] 2 Ohm Stereo: 100x6
• Power [watts/ch] 4 Ohm Stereo: 50x6
• Power [watts/ch] 4 Ohm Bridged Mono: 200x3

Or, would it be running 2 of the 6.5's in parallel to channel 1. 2 more in parallel to channel 2, then bridge 3&4 for one sub and bridge 5&6 for another sub? Thanks for the links! I bought 2 of these but haven't opened them yet: JL Audio MX10IB3-SG-TLD-B 10-inch Marine Subwoofer, Titanium Sport Grille with Blue LED, 4 Ohm, OEM brown box package, Black Badge Only